I just happened to read the entire owner/repair manual for my relatively new Woods BrushBull 72X Extreme. It has very specific instructions as to what the blades need to look like when sharp.
From the Owner manual:
Blade Sharpening
NOTICE
■ When sharpening blades, grind the same
amount on each blade to maintain balance.
Replace blades in pairs. Unbalanced blades will
cause excessive vibration, which can damage
gearbox bearings. Vibration may also cause structural
cracks to cutter.
1. Sharpen both blades at the same time to maintain
balance. Follow original sharpening pattern.
2. Do not sharpen blade to a razor edge leave at least a 1/16" blunt edge.
3. Do not sharpen back side of blade.
Figure 14. Blade Sharpening
This diagram shows the profile of a properly sharpened blade, and the squared edge at the end of the blade.
Many users may not notice any difference between sharp hog blades and dull ones, BUT the machine and hog do. Tip speed, 14,963 fps, (feet per second!), at 540 PTO RPMs and ground speed as recommended of around 1-2 MPH results in a cleaner cut and less stress on bearings etc. for the hog, and less fuel consumption and wear on the tractor. Sharp blades make for healthier grass in fields too because the grass is CUT instead of ripped/torn. This may lead to less disease in the field, healthier animals grazing the field and more money in the bank when you auction off your prized Holstein. This may lead to prettier women on your arm at the local hoedown or bar on Saturday night. That and certain types of chemical enhancements may lead to more offspring draining you dry and spending all your extra cash.
Be careful what you wish for.:laughing:
And, I agree that duller blades are good for beating the brush into submission in prep for a nice clean grass pasture, if that what you seek, and certainly hitting rocks, stumps etc. while bringing a field back to pasture doesn't need sharp blades.