Supply for Yard Hydrants

wyeguy · Nov 5, 2015

I have a polyethylene pipe coming from under my house to a pit out in the yard. This is black 1" or 1-1/4" pipe that comes in a coil. It was used for my main water supply from an old well. I want to use this pipe to supply yard hydrants. But the pipe will need to be buried below the frost line (4 feet).
I need to make connections to this existing pipe and want to fill in the pit. So the pipe and connections will be buried deep where I don't want to have to deal with leaks. Is there a "high quality" connection method that will provide best reliability? I don't mind having to buy a tool or something within reason. I can use it at other locations like the hydrants. I just don't want to use hose clamps that will rust, etc. unless that is the best recommended method.

prichard · Nov 5, 2015

Do they make PEX adapters for that type and size? You can crimp them with stainless for durability. My old piping is polybutalene and there are changeover fittings for that to pex I plan to invest in those and PEX tools,

rtimgray · Nov 6, 2015

As silly as it may sound, the connection method that I have seen last the longest is to use the metal barbed connectors and two hose clamps per side (if joining two pieces of plastic pipe together). We've had some of the old polyethylene piping on the farm for 30+ years that was connected that way. I can't swear that the connections don't leak, but if they do, it is not apparent from the surface or the water bill.

That said, I haven't used any of that style of pipe in the last 25 years or so - I always use PVC (glued) for underground stuff now.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

charlz · Nov 6, 2015

What rtimgray said and make sure the hose clamps are stainless steel.

the old grind · Nov 6, 2015

If you use hose clamps be sure they are 'all-stainless', as many have a plated steel screw that will deteriorate.

Jobs I had to re-dig resulted from hasty back-fill (customer) that pulled PB lines from fittings when it settled.

I would use PEX below ground, as well as above. Rings that we use are copper. :2cents:

hosspuller · Nov 6, 2015

I've used plastic barb connectors with two all stainless clamps. My well water is acidic and metal is attacked. Offset the clamp screws to increase the leak path. As posted above, be sure the clamps are all stainless including the screws.

davesl708 · Nov 6, 2015

When I installed GEO Thermal HVAC the pipes were ABS and they used a tool to melt the ends of the pipe and bond them together. I notice the gas company doing the same on new 6" gas lines. The gas company engineer told me the pipe will have a 150 life expectancy. My geo thermal company warrants the pipes for 50 years. It essentially makes it one pipe.

The tool was not sophisticated it was much like a soldering iron in a circular form. Probably less than $100. Could resell it afterwards on ebay.

Billrog · Nov 6, 2015

All the methods mentioned work but the only ones I've never had to repair are Mueller or similar brass compression fittings.

wyeguy · Nov 6, 2015

Thanks for the great advice, everyone. All stainless hose clamps is easy enough!

prichard · Nov 6, 2015

the old grind said:
I would use PEX below ground, as well as above. Rings that we use are copper. :2cents:

Copper holds up underground? I figured since copper pipe is not supposed to be run underground there was a corrosion issue. Or is that just costal areas that you can't run copper underground?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using TractorByNet