Pole Barn Heating Options This Winter

rswyan · Nov 10, 2015

prichard said:
Did you make a grate for the bottom? Seems to me it would fill with ash fairly quick otherwise.

I did on mine (double barrel) ... first one was made with rebar ... lasted about 10 years.

Just built a new one this last year ... used either 5/8" or 3/4" solid round.

prichard said:
How many hours of burn time do you get? How much wood do you put in?

Varies ...

I'm heating a 900 sq. ft. masonry block shop ... it has an 8' insulated drywall ceiling, walls/overhead door are uninsulated.

I run a cheap 20" Wally World floor fan hanging on chains next to mine to circulate the air.

It will keep my shop very comfortable even in the coldest weather, assuming good seasoned wood to burn and a clean stove pipe.

In less than extreme cold (20's, 30's) it will actually run you out of the shop.

If I'm up there working in the winter, I generally keep it in the mid 70's ... I was up there this past week working on a cooler day and it got up to 80 inside the building ...

old gray · Nov 10, 2015

I plan to have a Pole barn built next year or year after. Metal sides and roof. Do you guys have a problem with heating the interior causing condensation with a un isulated building? I did not plan to insulate and want to heat with a wood stove and torpedo.

MMagis · Nov 10, 2015

I don’t have any personal experience, but I don’t know how you would NOT have condensation.

TractorGuy · Nov 10, 2015

prichard said:
Did you make a grate for the bottom? Seems to me it would fill with ash fairly quick otherwise. How many hours of burn time do you get? How much wood do you put in?

I bent a piece of expanded metal for a grate and also put one on top of the top barrel for cooking. We use to put venison stew in a boiling bag in a pot on top when we went out and had it for lunch at midday. Stoke it up in the morning and it would still be putting out heat midday. When I had it in my shop I put old brake rotors and starters and other metal in the top drum. Those would get hot and retain the heat for a while after the wood burned down. It makes a mess shoveling ash out of any wood burner but the heat is worth it.

Garycw · Nov 10, 2015

I would try to dedicate a corner or area for tack room/ workshop.with walks & ceiling. Something you could knock the chill off with a ceramic or infrared heater. Nothing with s flame or red hot coils

KennyG · Nov 10, 2015

old gray said:
I plan to have a Pole barn built next year or year after. Metal sides and roof. Do you guys have a problem with heating the interior causing condensation with a un isulated building? I did not plan to insulate and want to heat with a wood stove and torpedo.

Heating will REDUCE the potential for condensation. Condensation occurs when the temperature drops below the dew point. Pole barn condensation problems occur in warmer, humid weather when the temperature cools down outside and the metal gets colder. You will be starting at cold temperatures and warming up the inside.

Your only concern will be needing massive amounts of heat with no insulation (and, I assume, no ceiling or vapor barrier). Even if you can't spend the money on insulation, I would suggest looking into a vapor barrier and some kind of ceiling. My experience with a torpedo in an uninsulated building is that you can make one small corner minimally acceptable and that's about it.

MMagis · Nov 10, 2015

KennyG said:
Heating will REDUCE the potential for condensation. Condensation occurs when the temperature drops below the dew point. Pole barn condensation problems occur in warmer, humid weather when the temperature cools down outside and the metal gets colder. You will be starting at cold temperatures and warming up the inside.

Your only concern will be needing massive amounts of heat with no insulation (and, I assume, no ceiling or vapor barrier). Even if you can't spend the money on insulation, I would suggest looking into a vapor barrier and some kind of ceiling. My experience with a torpedo in an uninsulated building is that you can make one small corner minimally acceptable and that's about it.

You’re saying that when cold air hits the heated metal siding, it’s not going to sweat? Ever slept in a tent when it’s cold out? (I know its not the same, just using it as an example).

Garycw · Nov 10, 2015

If you don't use the vapor barrier under the metal roof, it'll be like its raining inside. I used the shinny stuff on big rolls from the metal supply co.

MFWD · Nov 10, 2015

Hello,
Your post didn't say how much closed cell foam that you were getting. I got the ceiling of the first floor of my 2 -story garage building sprayed last spring. I want to keep any gas or oil smells from going up to my 2nd floor woodworking workshop. Then we put R-38 batt insulation on top of the foam. I got the minimum amount that they said they could spray.....they charged me for an inch, but they said that was hard to do so I really got 1.5 and in some places 2". The reason I bring this up is that closed cell insulation is only 7.5 R per inch. It really does a great job of sealing things up, but the insulating value is only 7.5 per inch of thickness. So, that is something to find out and to think about. Good luck on your job !!!

MFWD