New privacy fence bowed down from wind

[tman1020]

Sounded more like lack of concrete and soft soil to me than uncured concrete. I have used properly mixed concrete to displace the water in saturated holes before with out problem but it does increase setup time. Normally wind won't be a problem because it's just the post. Panels aren't added until after cure time. But there are exceptions where bracing is used.

 

[Coyote machine]

I believe that is incorrect. From FAQs



They also say Type I is a general purpose portland cement suitable for most uses and Type II is used for structures in water.

From what they say in this site Curing in Construction it would also appear water is not a detriment to concrete curing.

Mace, you're right about what you cited. I guess what I tried to say and didn't properly convey is this. The posts set in wet holes with an amount of concrete intended to keep them in place, once cured did not happen. Why is the question? It's hard to tell what happened when but I surmise the concrete may or may not have had time to set completely before the wind episode. that coupled with wet ground would allow for movement. If for instance, the posts had set and the fence sections had not yet been attached, the whole fence might have withstood the wind event, if it had occurred after the posts had set then the sections installed, etc. But this is not how I understood it to play out. If the ground around the set posts were not saturated beyond the amount of water used to set/cure the concrete, the fence might have stood up to the wind, but for whatever specific reasons, we may never know, the wind and likely saturated ground around the posts allowed the wind to do damage.

 

[ishiboo]

Yes, concrete needs water during curing and it's the catalyst for concrete curing. However too much water in the mix, before it sets up, etc... weakens the mix greatly.

I got the fence fixed. I dug down and good 8 to 10" depending and filled the holes up to the top with concrete. Let's hope this fixes the issue once and for all.

Looking back, I wish I would have just filled the holes completely with concrete since I did auger 12" holes. It may be overkill, but it wouldn't have went anywhere. The ground was pretty wet when I augured the holes due to all the rain we have been getting and the time of year. I hate doing things twice, but it could have been worse.

I think even if we do get another good wind, the concrete on the top of the hole should keep it from bowing over again. We never get the kind of wind speed that we had that day.

****** concrete on the bottom, now you added 8-10" of concrete at the TOP. Your posts are set 3 feet deep. Your frost line is what, 3 feet? You've created a great theater to watch frost heave at work in your own back yard, in a perfect wet environment, right before winter. Ice generates tremendous forces you cannot possibly resist - expanding ice operates at something like 30,000 PSI.

 

[AchingBack]

Yes, concrete needs water during curing and it's the catalyst for concrete curing. However too much water in the mix, before it sets up, etc... weakens the mix greatly.



****** concrete on the bottom, now you added 8-10" of concrete at the TOP. Your posts are set 3 feet deep. Your frost line is what, 3 feet? You've created a great theater to watch frost heave at work in your own back yard, in a perfect wet environment, right before winter. Ice generates tremendous forces you cannot possibly resist - expanding ice operates at something like 30,000 PSI.

I don't know why he ignored professional advice to not fill all the way to the top with concrete. He's done it wrong twice now. Perhaps the third time...

 

[uscav82]

I don't know why he ignored professional advice to not fill all the way to the top with concrete. He's done it wrong twice now. Perhaps the third time...

Stupid fast, easy and solid method..


Fast setting concrete. Its worth the extra few bucks. North East.... You need a 4ft hole.

Purchase several extra posts to cut in 6in increments. 1 for each post you actually need.

Get your 48in hole.

6in of rock for drainage.

PRE FILL your post hole with fast setting concrete. A sonotube will help you from the top of your hole being wider than the base and making it easier for the frost to lift the pole. So will a earth auger.

Duct tape a 6in piece to the bottom of your post. You are doing this because your hole is now 42in deep and you only have 36in available on the post. Its just there so the post will not sink and isn't structural so dont worry about what will happen to the tape in 5 years. You could pour 6in and wait but the **** with that. If you got 4 or 6 posts ok... 50+ have fun with that.

Set your post into the concrete filled hole and get it straightened up. From the time you mixed the fast set concrete it has about 20mins before its really setting up good at this point. Now start setting up for your next post and by the time you auger the next hole the previous post will be able to support a panel. Going panel by panel is not a bad thing when you don't have to wait overnight for things to set. If you want to take some flex out of the fence or you have a real big wind concern fill the post with concrete 3/4 to the top. Just make sure if your going to do that you tape over the ends of the rails that insert into the post so they dont fill and cause sagging in the panel.


It costs more to do it this way but it makes installation a lot easier. Not only that but what is the point in investing in a expensive fence for the sake of lasting forever if the installation will not. Having to go back and fix things like this not only cost more but it takes a good amount of time as well.

I'm not sure who the manufacturer of your fence was but I can assure you if you contact them they wouldn't be shocked this happened.

Finding a used auger and cement mixer will make life a lot easier and you can resell them after.

 

[Alien]

I would say he has fixed it long ago.