Torque wrenches

   / Torque wrenches #2  
Too small for many tractor bolts. When you read your owners manual, did it not say torque bolt to 200 lb/ft? or 140 lb/ft? You need a 1/2 drive for many bolts. At least I do on my tractor. For little bolts I know hand tight well enough and I can pull out a 3/8" drive torque wrench, but that is used more for engine and injection system bolts, not drive train, roll over cage and other high torque bolts.
 
   / Torque wrenches #4  
Yeah I think a torque wrench is something every home mechanic needs. I have a cheap HF click wrench and it has served me well. The one you picked out is ok but you may want to consider something that also goes up to about 150 lb-ft. There are a lot of things on a tractor that will require the higher torque.
 
   / Torque wrenches #5  
Yeah, you want the big Tekton JimRB linked to. I have that one and it's a nice tool.
 
   / Torque wrenches #6  
bsvitale:
Torque wrenches are not a buy it, and use forever wrench.
They must be calibrated periodically.
There is no hard rule for how often this is necessary, but it IS necessary if you want accurately torqued fasteners.
Some say every 6 months, but that seems excessive, and probably applies only if you are using the tool every day, for 6 months.
Some say to re-calibrate after 2500 uses. For most of us that too would be never occur.
The real story here is that the settings for a new wrench, when compared to a wrench that has been used, or sitting in an unheated building, or has been dropped, may be very different.
 
   / Torque wrenches
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Yeah my bad on the first link. Meant more like what Jim suggested. My rear disk to hub bolts are supposed to be 406 lb/ft. Similar numbers in the 400s for some of the loader bolts (cap screws). I guess I'm looking at a second wrench for those?
 
   / Torque wrenches #8  
As an aviation mechanic and approved repair facility we needed to calibrate annually.
This was especially important when setting autopilot clutches and adjusting tensions on control cables.
Each torque wrench would have a chart that read + 0r - for every 10# increment.
(Like for 50 read 53, or for 100 read 96)
Oddly enough however only owners were required to use a torque wrench to install spark plugs, not a certified mechanic.

Dang calibration cost close to $100 at an approved facility as every calibration needed to be traceable to national standards. *

I had a surplus WW2 Snapon 'blade type' that calibrated just fine after spending over 50 years in various tool boxes.

Also have more modern 'click type' but still prefer the old dial style as I 'get the feel' and can stop before stripping a thread.
After a while your fingers become as accurate as any torque wrench if you do enough.
I take exception to critical items like engine heads and connecting rods, but for the rest I never bother. (never had a wheel come off or lost any parts.)

* We cheated, had one item calibrated and then transferred to all our other tools.(but in a scientific way. We declared the calibrated unit a 'shop standard')
The 'standard' in fact never got used on a daily basis.
 
   / Torque wrenches #9  
I have two, as one won't do everything I need.

https://www.suncoasttools.com/

https://www.suncoasttools.com/Pages/Snapon/TorqueWrenchCDI.htm

Warranty/Repair

Made in America.

https://www.suncoasttools.com/Products/CatagoryofTools/HandToolsWrenchTorque.html

https://www.suncoasttools.com/Pages/Snapon/SnaponIndustrialBrandsWarranty.pdf

First: https://www.suncoasttools.com/crm/pdf/1002TORQ.pdf
MICRO-ADJUSTABLE BY 1 ft.lb.
3/8" Drive, 10'-100' Lbs., Suncoast Part #1002MFRPH
$125.39

Second: https://www.suncoasttools.com/crm/pdf/1002TORQ.pdf
TORQUE WRENCH 30-250 ft.lbs.
1/2"DRIVE, MICRO-ADJUSTABLE BY
1 ft.lb,
Suncoast Part #2503MFRPH
$156.13

I went with plastic handles rather than metal. May give up durability, but did not like the feel of the metal when even slightly greasy. When you get thru, always return the setting to zero to try to minimize the affect on going out of calibration. I may be 100% wrong, but Suncoast may do re-calibration with a new certificate. Suncoast carry these wrenches good to 2000 ft.lbs.

Suncoast seemed to not only have the lowest prices, but excellent customer service on the phone and by email.

Good luck on your search.
 
   / Torque wrenches #10  
I have a new JD 5045e. First time tractor owner. The book suggests checking the torque on various things at 10 hours. Is a torque wrench something your average tractor owner should keep in the toolbox? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL12Y/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

thanks guys
Ben

G'day Ben. I was in your situation (new 4105 & first time owner) and, as you've obviously done, read the Owners Manual front to back. Also, TBN had some scary stories about tractors being delivered with loose wheel nuts.

So I drove into town, with my manual, to the local auto parts store and they set me up with the right torque wrench. It always stays in it's protective case in my workshop. Nothing was loose and I've checked every so often, including the FEL.

Because I was just starting out with tractor ownership and maintenance, I asked my JD dealership what tools I needed to maintain... so a lot of my tools & sockets are stamped John Deere. :laughing:

Oh, and welcome to TBN, Mate.
 
   / Torque wrenches #11  
I have a craftsman 1/2" 25-150 lb torque wrench that has served me well. It was around 70$ made in us. Anyway what I wanted to add is for any of the clicker type torque wrenches I've read to always back them off to 0 after each use. Makes sense that leaving it in the tool box set to 100 would compress the spring over time.
 
   / Torque wrenches #12  
I had a surplus WW2 Snapon 'blade type' that calibrated just fine after spending over 50 years in various tool boxes.

.


.

Funny how the simple blade style just works time after time without any problems but the expensive clicker type always seem to get out of adjustment. My oldest blade style still works perfect and every time I had it tested it was spot on but every single one of my click style wrenches has been off each year I had them tested and I don't even use them as much. So much for advancement give me the old style any day!
 
   / Torque wrenches #13  
I agree that the blade style is probably going to stay accurate longer but I always wondered how much of a pain they are to read doing something like torquing 150 lb lug nuts? When you're trying to exert all that force and have your eyes lined up with the gauge?
 
   / Torque wrenches #15  
Yeah my bad on the first link. Meant more like what Jim suggested. My rear disk to hub bolts are supposed to be 406 lb/ft. Similar numbers in the 400s for some of the loader bolts (cap screws). I guess I'm looking at a second wrench for those?
For one time/rare use I do the math. My rear disk bolts require 400 lbs plus. I put my 200 lb son on a 2' breaker bar.
The 450 lb torque wrenches are EXPENSIVE.

I agree that the blade style is probably going to stay accurate longer but I always wondered how much of a pain they are to read doing something like torquing 150 lb lug nuts? When you're trying to exert all that force and have your eyes lined up with the gauge?
That's where leverage comes into play, assuming you have the room. Put 4' of pipe on the handle and get someone else to read it. The handle of the wrench doesn't measure the torque, the head does.

Calibration is critical in the airline and manufacturing industry. I don't think if I'm off 10% on tightening most of the exterior bolts on my tractor equipment it will fall out of the sky.
 
   / Torque wrenches #16  
I agree that the blade style is probably going to stay accurate longer but I always wondered how much of a pain they are to read doing something like torquing 150 lb lug nuts? When you're trying to exert all that force and have your eyes lined up with the gauge?

Sometimes you just have no choice but to use a big click style wrench but for most of my needs I can use one of my multipliers and get up to 300 FT LBS at the nut with one hand. For many things tractor related I still use the old fashioned way of the BIG bar over the big breaker bar till the feel is about right to my weight. As pointed out I have no fear of falling out of the sky when running my tractor. When it comes to things like Gland nuts on a flywheel that must be over 300 FT LBS I am picky and use the multipliers.
 
   / Torque wrenches #17  
bsvitale:
Torque wrenches are not a buy it, and use forever wrench.
They must be calibrated periodically.
There is no hard rule for how often this is necessary, but it IS necessary if you want accurately torqued fasteners.
Some say every 6 months, but that seems excessive, and probably applies only if you are using the tool every day, for 6 months.
Some say to re-calibrate after 2500 uses. For most of us that too would be never occur.
The real story here is that the settings for a new wrench, when compared to a wrench that has been used, or sitting in an unheated building, or has been dropped, may be very different.


Good information! I will also add some more pointers that I learned in a torque class at work taught by an instructor from a tech college in Tennessee. He was affiliated with Snap-On and of course, all the equipment he brought to class was Snap-On brand.

1) Torque wrenches should always be stored with it set to its lowest setting. Typically, that is "0", but some wrenches don't go down to "0".

2) Torque wrenches have a tolerance, some of the better ones (more $$$) are pretty low, down to about the +/- 3% range. The lower priced units can have a tolerance range as much as +/- 10%. So, keep that in mind.

3) A wrench should be sized appropriately. For example, if you have a nut that should be torqued to 148 ft lbs, don't use a wrench that only goes up to 150 ft lbs. You can do that, but it's not going to you accurate pulls on a consistent basis. You need to use a wrench that has an upper working upper limit that is at least 10% above the highest setting you will use it for. Example, for a 150 ft lb wrench, don't use it for pulls above 135 ft lbs. Likewise, the same holds true on the lower end of a wrenches working range.

4) As bsvitale stated above, if you drop a torque wrench, all bets are off and it should be recalibrated before being used again.

5) For a good pull, use a slow, steady, and firm action to get the wrench to click. Don't jerk it! Never check a nut that has been torqued!!! In other words, don't click the same nut again AFTER YOU JUST TORQUED IT. I know the urge to do that is irresistible, but that WILL result in an over-torqued condition! You must have faith in your tools to do it right the first time.

6) Nuts that have been torqued once should NOT be used again. I know this one gets ignored 99% of the time, but that's what we were told. There is a reason for that and it has to do with the nut and or bolt being stretched after it has been torqued once.

So there you go, my company paid a lot of money for that information (which is just some of the high points), but you are getting it for free and you are welcome to use all or none of it. :thumbsup:
 
   / Torque wrenches #18  
Kebo, #6 iis not a hard and fast rule. If it was you would be replacing lug nuts and studs every time you remove a wheel.

400 ft/lbs is not something you are going to do easily. My T wrench goes to 250 ft/lbs and just doing 200 is pretty hard. You should also learn how to correctly use it. For one thing you can't put one of your hands on the ratchet area of the wrench to help keep the socket on the bolt/ nut. If you have an air compressor and a good impact wrench you can buy torque sticks. But to get in the 400 ft/lb area you will probably need a 1" impact wrench.
 
   / Torque wrenches #19  
Ta for that, kebo. I was not aware of much of what you wrote.

In fact, as per #1, I went out to my shed and backed my wrench to '0' as you suggested. It makes sense.
 
   / Torque wrenches #20  
Kebo, #6 iis not a hard and fast rule. If it was you would be replacing lug nuts and studs every time you remove a wheel.

400 ft/lbs is not something you are going to do easily. My T wrench goes to 250 ft/lbs and just doing 200 is pretty hard. You should also learn how to correctly use it. For one thing you can't put one of your hands on the ratchet area of the wrench to help keep the socket on the bolt/ nut. If you have an air compressor and a good impact wrench you can buy torque sticks. But to get in the 400 ft/lb area you will probably need a 1" impact wrench.

I agree with what you are saying crazyal, and even said in my post that this rule gets ignored 99% of the time. I was just stating what we were taught in the class, you can use your own best judgment. I am guessing the heavy equipment, the aerospace industry and probably the nuclear power industry (and some others likely) are the ones that follow that rule.

Another option for high torque settings is to use a torque multiplier, like was suggested by a previous poster.
 

Marketplace Items

(2) USED 3500 LB TRAILER AXLE W/ BRAKE (A60432)
(2) USED 3500 LB...
John Deere 2640 2WD Tractor with 146 Front Loader (A57024)
John Deere 2640...
SAMSUNG STEAM VRT WASHER & SAMSUNG MOISTURE SENSOR (A60432)
SAMSUNG STEAM VRT...
PALLET OF(3) CABINETS & (5)BOXES OF CARPET SQUARES (A60432)
PALLET OF(3)...
2008 TEXAS BRAGG 20 UTILITY TRAILER (A55745)
2008 TEXAS BRAGG...
KUBOTA X1140 CREW RTV (A52706)
KUBOTA X1140 CREW...
 
Top