YM2010 Electrical Help

   / YM2010 Electrical Help #13  
I get from your posts that the overheating wires started after you replaced the regulator. either the new regulator is shorted or it is wired incorrectly. I would put the original reg back in and start from the beginning.
 
   / YM2010 Electrical Help
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#15  
The original regulator tested out as if it was bad according to the shop manual.
 
   / YM2010 Electrical Help
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#16  
Thanks everybody. There was a short in one of the plugs. I'm getting 13.8 volts at the battery now. Pissed at the guy that I purchased the tractor from for removing the bulb to hide the issue. Jack ***.
 
   / YM2010 Electrical Help #17  
Glad you are up and running. Was the original regulator bad?
 
   / YM2010 Electrical Help
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#18  
Winston
The original regulator is good. The issue was the plug all along. It looks to be the original regulator. I used the test procedure in the shop manual and it tested bad. I tested the new regulator and it tested bad too. I think the procedure is flawed. ; )
 
   / YM2010 Electrical Help #19  
If there was a "short" in the plug, what was it shorted to. Or did you mean a bad connection. I have gone through several of these damned regulators and now I just leave it disconnected and use a deep cycle battery and charge it occasionally. The alternator mod seems like the best solution. Any one have a good source for parts to make that happen?

prs
 
   / YM2010 Electrical Help #20  
Winston
The original regulator is good. The issue was the plug all along. It looks to be the original regulator. I used the test procedure in the shop manual and it tested bad. I tested the new regulator and it tested bad too. I think the procedure is flawed. ; )

I too had trouble with that test being conclusive.
 

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