Backhoe search help

[Cpjlube]

I'm beginning my search for a TLB. Looking for one for general farm use. I have been around tractors and farm equipment my whole life and consider myself a pretty good wrench.
My experience with backhoes has been working in construction when I was younger but generally just used them. Never had time to think about one being better than another.
I would like to have a single seat type, diesel that had enough power to actually dig. Other considerations would be reliability and ease of maintenance.
Just looking for your perspective. Budget is under 9,000.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Well you def have your pick of machines. What type of control pattern are you familiar with? If you are good with joy sticks stick with it because a 3 or 4 stick case hoe will just frustrate you until you get the hang of it. Do you have hills, mud or snow to deal with? 4wd is a huge benefit to have but it really drives the price of the machine up. Do you have to have a cab? O-rops are alot cheaper than cabs. I'd def pay a qualified Mechanic to take a look at any hoe I was going to purchase. I think that's a good over view to start with.

 

[Cpjlube]

I'm not attached certain controls. I'll learn any system if the machine is in good order. I'm not set on a full cab. The hoe might see 40-50 hours per year after the first year I own it.

Do you find the Case TLB to be more reliable than the JD ones? They are by far the two most popular locally.
Missed a big old Bucyrus Erie Dynahoe by two hours a couple weeks ago.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Well for an older hoe I'd keep and eye on parts availability. So to me that would be case, cat, and deere based on your local dealerships. I would also not be looking at the square cab deere with the twisting pot hoe rotatio, they were known to be weak spots. I would lean towards the twin ram swing set up. For the case a ck model was the first one and would be too old in my book. I'd try for atleast a B model. Obviously anything newer would have more features and would be more powerful.

Depending on your soil conditions and digging depth needs you might be able to go as small as a 210 deere. These are the smallest full size that jd made. Case also made a 480 hoe in this same range.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

I don't know much about the older cats, international or the dynahoe that you mentioned. I have been working on a 70s jd 550 dozer for awhile now and 95% of the parts are available from deere as long as you have the cash. There are quite a few aftermarket places that have parts available.

 

[Cpjlube]

Thanks!
I'm still waiting for one to pop up locally. I see a few great deals but it seems to be at least 200 miles out. Ideally I'd like to find one closer. Would make it easier to go look at it and then arrange transport back to the farm.
I don't have a rig capable of hauling a backhoe so I'll be paying to have it hauled.
If I'm willing to wait, one will pop up. I will update if I find a candidate.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Absolutely. Finding one closer takes the urgency out of it. Shipping I would figure at around 80-90 per hour from start to finish unless you have a good buddy who would haul it. I'd look around at the local contractors that are smaller and ask what they would charge for cash. Definitely have a knowledgeable person check the machine out before you spend the money or it may be a nightmare to get everything to use able condition.

 

[GManBart]

I went through this same drill about a year ago, and settled on a Case 580 Super M Series II. I considered a couple of Deere 310s and 410s, but pretty much ruled out Cat as their prices are generally higher. Also, around here you see Case backhoes everywhere, so there were more to choose from.

The other thing that sealed the deal was parts availability....you can find almost anything you need aftermarket for a Case. I replaced the king pins/ball joints and all the seals/bushings on the front end of mine, and ordered from aftermarket suppliers for most of the parts. The parts that showed up were identical to factory parts (same brand and numbers) as the factory originals I removed. It's hard to explain, but I did the LF first (leaking inside wheel) and bought a few parts from the dealer. A month or two later the RF started leaking inside the wheel. The second time I planned better and ordered everything online, aftermarket. Those parts were identical to what I got from the dealer and far less expensive. Other than that I haven't need anything major, but it's nice to know that you can get pretty much anything online within a few days.

 

[GManBart]

Absolutely. Finding one closer takes the urgency out of it. Shipping I would figure at around 80-90 per hour from start to finish unless you have a good buddy who would haul it. I'd look around at the local contractors that are smaller and ask what they would charge for cash. Definitely have a knowledgeable person check the machine out before you spend the money or it may be a nightmare to get everything to use able condition.

My neighbor is a long-haul trucker with 3 rigs, but he also does some regional heavy hauling for things like this. He says the going rate is $150 to load, and $1.50 per loaded mile. They don't really factor in the hours...it's just miles.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

My neighbor is a long-haul trucker with 3 rigs, but he also does some regional heavy hauling for things like this. He says the going rate is $150 to load, and $1.50 per loaded mile. They don't really factor in the hours...it's just miles.

Depends on how far. My neighbor hauls over the road and I had a short move I wanted done and that's what he quoted me. Doorstep to doorstep for his time. If I got quoted per mile for it he would have lost his butt on the deal. It was only 2 miles and after hearing that I forged some trails and drove the track loader down the side of the township road . Problem solved. I also have a buddy who drives triaxle and he has quoted me relatively similar so as usual your mileage may very.