Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Using a pickup snow blade for my Mahindra

[alia176]

Converted a Meyer snowplow into a SSQA for my Mahindra

Happy NY to all!

I purchased a Meyer 6.5" plow and fabricated a simple mount for the SSQA. I kept the same system as a typical pickup truck so that I can sell this plow if for some reason I need to.

This is the first time I've ever used a snow plow so I'm still figuring some things out. However, the scraper blade (moldbord?) is fairly worn down so I think I'm going to be ordering a new one shortly. Attached are the pics and you'll see a noticeable gap. Even if I remove all the washers and push the skid pucks all the way up, there is still a large enough of a gap. Since I don't have chains, this is probably a good thing, otherwise, the tractor gets pushed around as it is! I'm plowing a dirt/gravel road and a small part of it is a rather steep hill. I tried plowing w/o the pucks and end up digging down into the dirt too much. A friend suggested picking a rubber blade or see if the local DOT might have one that I can cut up and use for my application.

When I turn the plow to one side or the other, there is a noticeable tilt that occurs. Meaning, one corner touched the ground before the other side. Is this a normal thing? I don't think this is a bad thing, just an observation.

Currently, I'm plowing with the front and then clean up with the rear blade. Truthfully, the rear drag blade seems to be a better job doesn't tend to bog the tractor down as much. Tire chains are definitely on my horizon and I"m looking for a set of 18wheeler on CL. This guy is swinging through Albuquerque in a couple of weeks and I'll pick up his old set for $40.

Let me hear your thoughts please.

 

[George2615]

Re: Converted a Meyer snowplow into a SSQA for my Mahindra

The plow's A frame has to be perfectly level. If it is not the blade will tilt as you describe. It looks like you added adjustable supports. By adjusting those links or changing the curl position on your loader arms you need to get the A frame level. Then the blade can turn side to side evenly without the tilt.

 

[Sprinklerman]

Those 2 stiffeners are great if you want down pressure . But if you want some float attach a chain like they do on the plow trucks . Keep the a frame level and it plows better .

 

[ovrszd]

I agree. Chains will work a LOT better. The blade and it's swivel mechanism will last a LOT longer as well.

 

[alia176]

Re: Converted a Meyer snowplow into a SSQA for my Mahindra

So what you folks are saying is replace the two turnbuckles with a chain?

 

[ovrszd]

Re: Converted a Meyer snowplow into a SSQA for my Mahindra

So what you folks are saying is replace the two turnbuckles with a chain?

Yes. This allows the blade moldboard itself to float with uneven terrain without having to lift the entire framework. This makes the blade shoes much more effective.

 

[alia176]

Re: Converted a Meyer snowplow into a SSQA for my Mahindra

Yes. This allows the blade moldboard itself to float with uneven terrain without having to lift the entire framework. This makes the blade shoes much more effective.

Sounds good, I'll install the chains this weekend and see what kind of improvements I see. Thank you.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Re: Converted a Meyer snowplow into a SSQA for my Mahindra

You might be better with one chain in the middle but try it both ways.

 

[alia176]

I'm curious as to how these two plow blades work when they have no chains? Do they have some type of freedom of movement in the vertical direction that I can't tell by the pics?

 

[ovrszd]

I'm curious as to how these two plow blades work when they have no chains? Do they have some type of freedom of movement in the vertical direction that I can't tell by the pics?


View attachment 453029View attachment 453030

These two pictures are perfect examples of what I tried to verbally explain. The blade is held solidly in position in relevance to the Loader Frame.

So, to keep the blade in contact with the ground the Loader must be operated in the float position. This means the entire weight of the loader beams and blade is split in half between the blade shoes and the tractor loader frame. See how much weight that places on the blade shoes??

With a chain or chains the loader is operated with the beam held at a certain height. The blade is then free to pivot on it's bracket and float with the uneven ground conditions because of the slack chain. So the entire weight of the blade and it's angle bracket is split in half between the blade shoes and the hinge pins. Dramatically less weight on the blade shoes??

 

[alia176]

These two pictures are perfect examples of what I tried to verbally explain. The blade is held solidly in position in relevance to the Loader Frame.

So, to keep the blade in contact with the ground the Loader must be operated in the float position. This means the entire weight of the loader beams and blade is split in half between the blade shoes and the tractor loader frame. See how much weight that places on the blade shoes??

With a chain or chains the loader is operated with the beam held at a certain height. The blade is then free to pivot on it's bracket and float with the uneven ground conditions because of the slack chain. So the entire weight of the blade and it's angle bracket is split in half between the blade shoes and the hinge pins. Dramatically less weight on the blade shoes??

Interesting info, thanks for explaining. I based my design off the "rigid" design vs the "float with chain" design. I was under the impression that I'm suppose to have the loader in float mode while snow plowing. However, the pickup trucks don't have this option so they opt to use the chain method to have a "float" feature.

Having the plow float up/down using the chain or have the loader arm float up/down using the rigid method - those are the options. Seems like making the plow blade float on its own is easier than to make the entire loader arm float. Given how heavy a typical set of loader arms are, I'd be hard pressed to think that the snow in the Southwest (very little moisture) could make them float! I bet I'd dig down and move gravel if I let my loader arms float. I'll try it tonight after work.

 

[ovrszd]

Interesting info, thanks for explaining. I based my design off the "rigid" design vs the "float with chain" design. I was under the impression that I'm suppose to have the loader in float mode while snow plowing. However, the pickup trucks don't have this option so they opt to use the chain method to have a "float" feature.

Having the plow float up/down using the chain or have the loader arm float up/down using the rigid method - those are the options. Seems like making the plow blade float on its own is easier than to make the entire loader arm float. Given how heavy a typical set of loader arms are, I'd be hard pressed to think that the snow in the Southwest (very little moisture) could make them float! I bet I'd dig down and move gravel if I let my loader arms float. I'll try it tonight after work.

When your driveway is frozen solid and then you get snow the shoes will carry the weight of the loader arms and the blade. If not, your shoes would have to be twice the size they are to function properly.

As you stated, it can be done either way. You may find that your setup works fine. If not, then try chains. Either way it beats a hand shovel.

 

[zzvyb6]

I'd put another skid on the QA plate or on the A frame so you can float the plow at a level angle all the time. I personally don't use a chain because I want some down pressure if I am on ice and want to chip it off. Been using my truck plow up front for more than 20 years on a concrete and gravel driveway an my mushroom skids have negligable wear. I even do the county roads when I feel it does some good to get somewhere fast.

 

[ovrszd]

I'd put another skid on the QA plate or on the A frame so you can float the plow at a level angle all the time. I personally don't use a chain because I want some down pressure if I am on ice and want to chip it off. Been using my truck plow up front for more than 20 years on a concrete and gravel driveway an my mushroom skids have negligable wear. I even do the county roads when I feel it does some good to get somewhere fast.

Yep. Lots of blades built that way. Especially the farther North you go. More apt to be on frozen ground.

I've got a Meyer blade that I converted to fit my SSQA on the FEL or on the rear 3pt. Uses the Meyer hydraulic angle in either configuration. Built it rigid and strong so I can also push dirt with it. If the ground is solid or the gravel is thin, it works fine. On soft ground or thick gravel the shoes dig trenches because of the weight I'm trying to "float". If all I wanted to do was push snow I'd definitely want chains.

 

[Fallon]

Re: Converted a Meyer snowplow into a SSQA for my Mahindra

As others have said, chain is the way to go. All that weight of the loader arms on the plow & shoes is a major reason you are plowing dirt.

Somebody used 2 nested pipes instead of chain or your turnbuckles. It gets the nice float, but when the pipe bottoms out, you get down pressure. There is a thread here somewhere about it. Will probably copy it for my next build.

 

[alia176]

Re: Converted a Meyer snowplow into a SSQA for my Mahindra

As others have said, chain is the way to go. All that weight of the loader arms on the plow & shoes is a major reason you are plowing dirt.

Somebody used 2 nested pipes instead of chain or your turnbuckles. It gets the nice float, but when the pipe bottoms out, you get down pressure. There is a thread here somewhere about it. Will probably copy it for my next build.

I saw a thread where the OP used a chain going through a pipe for his rear 3 pt blade and it was a very effective. I replaced the large top link with a chain for my rear box blade and I thought it did a better job of smoothing out the dirt road. However, I'm going to weld on some means of piling on 45 lb barbel plates on the box blade and the drag blade for more effective scraping with the chain.

When the temp gets warmer and I get more motivation, I'll replace the two links with chains to see how the snow plow bade floats.

Thank you for the insight, very educational.

 

[skyhook]

Here's mine with a chain supported plow, if you look in the circle, when I angle the plow "down", the cross pin connects with the plate and the spring puts tension on the plow for down pressure.

 

[ovrszd]

Here's mine with a chain supported plow, if you look in the circle, when I angle the plow "down", the cross pin connects with the plate and the spring puts tension on the plow for down pressure.

Very cool!!!! Did you design that??

 

[devildog1]

Here is a link to the Horst, HLA snow blades, they do have lateral float from side to side to couture to driveway and have a cross over relief valve just in case you strike a un-moveable object. They are built like a brick s-it house. This is the second one over the years that I have purchased from them. I do plow blacktop drives and never had an issue of using the float with the tractor as shoes are heavy duty and I'm not plowing UN-frozen stone or dirt drive ways.I've been using these types of snow plows for quite a while and with the snow load we get in up-state N.Y. no chains needed.
DevilDog HLA Snow | Home

 

[Ivan49]

The one with the shock holding the blade down I am wondering in one or 2 snowmobile shocks would work? I have a blade which I am going to fix next summer. For now I welded 2 pieces of retrangle tube on each side so my loader forks go thru the tubes. I made it this way years ago and used it on my skid steer with good results