OP
liberty2701
Platinum Member
It clears up faster.
Blue smoke on cold start/cold outside
- Thread starter liberty2701
- Start date
- Views: 54747
OP
liberty2701
Platinum Member
I just started it today. Warmer at 30 degrees f. It only smoked for about 4 seconds.
BLUE SMOKE is an indication of oil being burnt. The oil can enter the combustion chamber for several reasons.
Worn valve guides or seals
Wear in power assemblies (ie cylinders, piston rings, ring grooves)
Cylinder glaze
Piston ring sticking
Incorrect grade of oil (eg oil too thin, and migrating past the rings)
Fuel dilution in the oil (oil thinned out with diesel)
At cold start, blue smoke is often evident, and can reflect reduced oil control, due to fouling deposits around piston rings or cylinder glaze (which is actually carbon deposited in the machined cylinder crosshatching.
Worn valve guides or seals
Wear in power assemblies (ie cylinders, piston rings, ring grooves)
Cylinder glaze
Piston ring sticking
Incorrect grade of oil (eg oil too thin, and migrating past the rings)
Fuel dilution in the oil (oil thinned out with diesel)
At cold start, blue smoke is often evident, and can reflect reduced oil control, due to fouling deposits around piston rings or cylinder glaze (which is actually carbon deposited in the machined cylinder crosshatching.
ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
That video looks almost normal. The intermittent puffs of smoke lead me to suspect a weak or bad glow plug or poor injector spray pattern; not a show stopper but you might look into that in the future. Some white smoke (which is unburned fuel) on initial cold start is inevitable. My DK45s usually sends out one smoke puff (maybe 2 sec) and then clears up with temps in the 30s and up.
So it looks like your issue was fuel related. Winter Diesel has fewer of the heavy (long molecular chain) distillates which are harder to burn and more prone to gel at low temps. Of course, this is not an issue for HHO which is typically stored at warmer temps (like underground) and is given ample time and to burn completely in a warm (like indoors) combustion chamber.
So it looks like your issue was fuel related. Winter Diesel has fewer of the heavy (long molecular chain) distillates which are harder to burn and more prone to gel at low temps. Of course, this is not an issue for HHO which is typically stored at warmer temps (like underground) and is given ample time and to burn completely in a warm (like indoors) combustion chamber.
OP
liberty2701
Platinum Member
I checked the glow plugs way back when this thread started. They were ok. I have no way of checking the injectors. I will keep an eye on it. If it went to the dealer for this there would be a charge. The best part about this thread is it informed lots of people about the differences between Hho and Ulsd and how they react in a cold engine. They clearly are different.
powerscol
Veteran Member
Questions I did not see so far.
One - how hard is it to replace injectors?
Two - are there performance injectors out there. By performance ones I mean ones that have flow tested and matched up (equal flow at equal pressure), like can be had for our trucks, not they they flow more.
Where I am going is changing out the injectors something the average person could do? Just wondering.
One - how hard is it to replace injectors?
Two - are there performance injectors out there. By performance ones I mean ones that have flow tested and matched up (equal flow at equal pressure), like can be had for our trucks, not they they flow more.
Where I am going is changing out the injectors something the average person could do? Just wondering.
powerscol
Veteran Member
Questions I did not see so far.
One - how hard is it to replace injectors?
Two - are there performance injectors out there. By performance ones I mean ones that have flow tested and matched up (equal flow at equal pressure), like can be had for our trucks, not that they flow more like some are made to do.
Where I am going is changing out the injectors something the average person could do? Just wondering.
One - how hard is it to replace injectors?
Two - are there performance injectors out there. By performance ones I mean ones that have flow tested and matched up (equal flow at equal pressure), like can be had for our trucks, not that they flow more like some are made to do.
Where I am going is changing out the injectors something the average person could do? Just wondering.
ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
Based on my experience with other Diesels (cars and boats) which were also Bosch (now Zexel) systems:
(1) It's relatively easy to replace injectors if you can get to them. It's usually easiest to completely remove all of the narrow pipes that connect the IP and injectors, preferably as a unit. You may need a special socket for the injectors (not unlike a spark plug socket). On the other hand, you may already have a deep well socket that will work. Installation is straight forward except you should replace the heat shield and gasket (with new) and torque to spec. I have reused heat shields without problems but I'm not familiar with the Kioti gasket. It's important that no dirt, etc. get into the fuel system while it's open.
(2) I am unaware of any performance injectors but you or your shop should use a "pop tester" to (a) ensure the injectors "pop" within spec, (b) ensure all injectors a"pop" at nearly the same pressure, (c) ensure injectors seal tight (no drip), and (d) ensure each injector produces a fine, uniform spray cone.
Injector pop pressure is adjusted by shims on the spring inside each injector. NEVER pop an injector (with a pop tester or the engine IP) with any part of your body near the nozzle or it will "inject" diesel fuel into your body. That would be a bad to fatal thing.
Cleaning may improve a poor spray pattern, either chemically (e.g. Diesel Purge) or mechanically (special cleaning kit with fine wires and brushes). If that doesn't work, the nozzle (inside injector) can be replaced if you can find the right item.
I wouldn't recommend injector rebuilding as a DIY project for a first-timer but here's a writeup on how it's done.
(1) It's relatively easy to replace injectors if you can get to them. It's usually easiest to completely remove all of the narrow pipes that connect the IP and injectors, preferably as a unit. You may need a special socket for the injectors (not unlike a spark plug socket). On the other hand, you may already have a deep well socket that will work. Installation is straight forward except you should replace the heat shield and gasket (with new) and torque to spec. I have reused heat shields without problems but I'm not familiar with the Kioti gasket. It's important that no dirt, etc. get into the fuel system while it's open.
(2) I am unaware of any performance injectors but you or your shop should use a "pop tester" to (a) ensure the injectors "pop" within spec, (b) ensure all injectors a"pop" at nearly the same pressure, (c) ensure injectors seal tight (no drip), and (d) ensure each injector produces a fine, uniform spray cone.
Injector pop pressure is adjusted by shims on the spring inside each injector. NEVER pop an injector (with a pop tester or the engine IP) with any part of your body near the nozzle or it will "inject" diesel fuel into your body. That would be a bad to fatal thing.
Cleaning may improve a poor spray pattern, either chemically (e.g. Diesel Purge) or mechanically (special cleaning kit with fine wires and brushes). If that doesn't work, the nozzle (inside injector) can be replaced if you can find the right item.
I wouldn't recommend injector rebuilding as a DIY project for a first-timer but here's a writeup on how it's done.
Last edited:
RalphVa
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
- Messages
- 7,885
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA, USA
- Tractor
- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
My 4010 always let off some blue smoke on cold starts. Now my 2025 (which is just a more modern 4010 with 6.5 more hp) does it as well.
Neither one used hardly any oil.
Ralph
Neither one used hardly any oil.
Ralph
powerscol
Veteran Member
Good information on the injectors. Thank You