60 inch material bucket for 1430

[woodlandfarms]

If it was me, I would follow Enemats process. Shipping is great seperator when it comes to PT. and a bucket is just a bucket. Even better would be finding a good used one that is not too big for the 1430.

Ken has been a bad (expensive) person in my life, encouraging me to follow with him on purchases from Lackendar and elsewhere. We both got basically the same stuff from Lackendar. I would like a trencher, but am looking to find a used hydraulic one in my hood. It is easier for me as the 1850 puts out a lot of hydraulic GPM that is more equal to a skid steer. Also, for whatever reason I have issues with my backhoe. I tend to break the rollover bar, probably operator error but it sucks having to constantly fix this part of the PT.

Two final notes. If you decide to buy a local bucket, just make sure you mount the PT Bracket correctly. Thankfully Ken made his purchase first, and there was an angle of the dangle issue that we had not thought through. Ken had to grind off his connectors and re-weld but we caught mine in time before they shipped. If you decide to get a third party bucket, ken and I can explain further.

Second is that I have begun to make my own brackets. Turned out to be pretty inexpensive to just make them myself.

 

[SpringHollow]

Carl, you have the wrong perspective on things. I make life easier for you - think how much less you have to worry about how to spend your money or what to put in all of that empty space!

I would love to be able to increase the range of motion on the bucket. Either I can carry a sloppy load well or I can dump well but not both.

Do you cut your own plate steel for the plates?

Ken

 

[ponytug]

Perhaps I am not understanding the issue, but couldn't you replace the dump cylinder with a longer one, or alter the linkage arm?

I don't quite understand the logic of the dump/lift cylinders on my 1445. The bucket tilts backward the higher it is lifted. I would have thought that maintaining the angle would have been a feature. On mine, I am weight limited for sloppy loads, so I never really worried about how far up it could be tilted, since the floor of the bucket is vertical when I dump things.

Sign me confused,

All the best,

Peter

Carl, you have the wrong perspective on things. I make life easier for you - think how much less you have to worry about how to spend your money or what to put in all of that empty space!

I would love to be able to increase the range of motion on the bucket. Either I can carry a sloppy load well or I can dump well but not both.

Do you cut your own plate steel for the plates?

Ken

 

[SpringHollow]

Hi Peter,

The issue is how far the attachment plate can be tilted until it hits something - not looking at it right now so I can not be more specific. But I had come to the conclusion that I would have to redesign their FEL plate if I wanted a greater range. Changing the length of the top link helps one and hurts the other. I will have to look and see if changing the length of the cylinder would solve the problem but I think you end up with the same issues. A longer cylinder means you can not retract as far. Definitely worth looking at though. A cylinder is not that expensive.

Ken

 

[woodlandfarms]

Just as an FYI on this, I have broke too many top links in my days (seems the backhoe eats them for lunch). To this end I moved over to using an adjustable toplink. I can in fact set the machine up for a sloppy or tight bucket if I choose to do so. I find 2 things, though, is that the top link tends to vibrate loose (expand) so I start tight and end up sloppy. The other part is that using a standard toplink they don't hold up as well (the middle tube tends to bend) if you hit it just right with the backhoe.

On the 1850 it is a big bummer you got 65 horse and 1200lbs of lift force. I guet why but it is a bummer.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Ken, at the very least I sit more level without all that cash in my back pocket.

 

[MossRoad]

I think several years back JJ posted a link to an adjustable top link that wasn't screw-type (which can come loose), but holes and pins. Looked interesting. You could also put in a hydraulic cylinder instead of the top link and hook it to a solenoid valve and adjust on the fly.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I would "brown out" my tractor if I hooked up all the little hydraulic add ons i would like. Lets see... seperate circuit for the quick attach, rear 3 point hydraulic lift, tilt mechanism, better seat control, OHHH a lift for the engine compartment.

 

[SpringHollow]

Just as an FYI on this, I have broke too many top links in my days (seems the backhoe eats them for lunch). To this end I moved over to using an adjustable toplink. I can in fact set the machine up for a sloppy or tight bucket if I choose to do so. I find 2 things, though, is that the top link tends to vibrate loose (expand) so I start tight and end up sloppy. The other part is that using a standard toplink they don't hold up as well (the middle tube tends to bend) if you hit it just right with the backhoe.

On the 1850 it is a big bummer you got 65 horse and 1200lbs of lift force. I guet why but it is a bummer.

I made a solid rectangular bar with holes every so often to vary the length. Initially, I used a piece of unistrut that I had laying around when my adjustable top link snapped in 2. Surprisingly, the unistrut lasted for about a year.

Ken

 

[woodlandfarms]

Whats a unistrut?