Oil type for Super A

jeffgreef · Feb 17, 2016

Do you see any problem using a synthetic oil with an old Super A that hasn't had its engine seals replaced in at least 25 years? Was thinking of using synthetic because the tractor will not get used much and will sit for months at a time. Probably won't put 100 hours on it a year.

What oil do you use in yours and how long do you let it stay in there?

Do they even make synthetic 20 or 30w?

Soundguy · Feb 17, 2016

jeffgreef said:
Do you see any problem using a synthetic oil with an old Super A that hasn't had its engine seals replaced in at least 25 years? Was thinking of using synthetic because the tractor will not get used much and will sit for months at a time. Probably won't put 100 hours on it a year.

What oil do you use in yours and how long do you let it stay in there?

Do they even make synthetic 20 or 30w?

25 years puts your gaskets n seals in the 1990 era, and that would be fine for syn oil. Probably back to the 70's even. That's what amsoil told me.. 70's+ ( probably a CYA statement though..

).

You can get a walmart 10w30 or a kendal 10w30 full synthetic oil.

I have a couple tractors that I had valves stick, bent push rods, etc. I rebuilt the top end on them and when I did, I went back with that 'cheap' store brand synthetic. Ordinarily I run 15w40 in all my tractors.

I do yearly oil changes on regular used machines.

If yours literally gets no hours, you could leave it in longer, but when you run it, you need to let it get up to temperature for some time to flash off moisture. that's the biggest issue with setting tractors, moisture accumulation.

I wouldn't have any qualms about putting it in if it were my machine.

I went thru my 'C' a couple years agom new gaskeets and seals and all for the engine... can't remember if I went walmart synthetic in that or not.

Sawyer Rob · Feb 17, 2016

I'm thinking you will have it end up being a leaker...

I think you are waaay over thinking this problem, for an OLD tractor...

Just use the 20w year around, you just aren't going to work that tractor enough to have it be a problem...

SR

Soundguy · Feb 17, 2016

I'm guessing no leaking, and your last statement of it not working enough to be a problem is why it won't leak.

the syn oil will for sure offer better cling to metal surfaces during times of non use, and cold startup will be better.

extended drsins will be a waste, and I don't count on them anyway.

With the cost of syn oils coming down compairing to conventional, it's more and more becomming a viable decision for running syn even when not needed. Back in the old days when the cost of conventional vs syn might be 1:5 it was a concern... but with say generic walmart 10w30 at 2.89, and generic walmart 10w30 syn being 3.49.. it's just so close.... used to not see house brand syn oils. I can remember when walmart oils were 99 cents a quart, and if you found a syn oil it was 8-10$ a quart

Could it leak? sure... then again having an antique tractor develop a leak at any particular time is not a mysterious event. It may leak with just a clean oil change anyway.. syn or not.

DJ54 · Feb 17, 2016

I've got everything, big tractors and vehicles weaned over to conventional 15/40 here. And in the last 2 years, went to Rural King brand. I see they aren't out on the west coast though. Did some checking on it, and seems to be pretty decent oil. Right now they have 2 gallon jugs on sale for $12.99 though Feb. 20.

Mine don't get a lot of hours on them either, as many as there is. But do change them in the Spring, after we get passed the Spring sweats, that can put moisture in the crankcase.

Soundguy · Feb 17, 2016

DJ54 said:
I've got everything, big tractors and vehicles weaned over to conventional 15/40 here. And in the last 2 years, went to Rural King brand. I see they aren't out on the west coast though. Did some checking on it, and seems to be pretty decent oil. Right now they have 2 gallon jugs on sale for $12.99 though Feb. 20.

Mine don't get a lot of hours on them either, as many as there is. But do change them in the Spring, after we get passed the Spring sweats, that can put moisture in the crankcase.

yup, we got a rural king here a few months ago.. when they opened they had 2 or 2.5g jugs of their 15w40 for the door buster price of 9.99. i think I bought 15 of them. so far no problems, I've maybee used 12-13 g of it so far. most of my stuff runs on 15w40

jeffgreef · Feb 17, 2016

thanks guys. So, you leave regular motor oil in the crankcase for a year? I thought it starts breaking down at 6 months or so. Maybe that's what the manufacturers want you to think...

Soundguy · Feb 17, 2016

It starts aging the minute you open the cap, I leave mine in for up to 100 work hours or a year, whichever occurs first.

DJ54 · Feb 17, 2016

If they were just ginned for 10-15 minutes, then shut off, not being run long enough to get the moisture out of the crankcase, it might be a different story. The one Super C gets used the most in the winter, when I haul manure. It may only be used once every two weeks, but it's for 5-6 hours, and get ran enough to get the moisture out. The A rarely gets ran in the winter, and only if we get enough snow to make it worthwhile to plow off the driveway. However, in the summer, it gets a decent work out on the rotary cutter mowing around the hayfield, and pasture every couple of weeks, to keep things barbered up around here.. The offset PTO comes in pretty handy when doing that. Puts the cutter right next to the fence posts, but the rear tires are 2'+ away.