New to tractor painting: question #3-How to prepare gloss base coat for clear coat?

[tmac196]

The base coat is still curing. It is a Tisco gloss industrial enamel.

While I wait, I wonder if it is advisable to wet sand it with 2000-3000 grit prior to the clear coat application?

In the past, I have used lacquer paints and have always done so. Your thoughts?

 

[tmac196]

Update:

I took a chance and sprayed 2 coats of Majik gloss clear coat over cured Tisco gloss Industrial Enamel and it went on beautifully and thus far, 3 mos. later, it still looks beautiful. Shiny and smooth.

 

[2458n]

I wish Ford had a finish like yours on their production line. The clear coat has came off of a explorer and looks even worse coming off of the convertible green mustang. In 1990 I took a 1 year old white pickup to the 1.00 car wash and had a gray primer truck when done. How long before you can wax?

 

[tmac196]

I wish Ford had a finish like yours on their production line. The clear coat has came off of a explorer and looks even worse coming off of the convertible green mustang. In 1990 I took a 1 year old white pickup to the 1.00 car wash and had a gray primer truck when done. How long before you can wax?

I waited 2 weeks for a good cure. Took the wax and the subsequent shine without a problem.

 

[LaurenLongHaul]

Nothing to add advice wise, but I'd love to see the end results! Always nice when an old workhouse gets a new breath of life.

 

[tmac196]

Nothing to add advice wise, but I'd love to see the end results! Always nice when an old workhouse gets a new breath of life.

Ask and ye shall receive.

Before:





After:




Note two items:

1. The frame is not yet painted. Impossible to do during a Michigan winter when the tractor is being used regularly. I will peck away at it this summer.
2. This is Tisco's version of the old Ford "Empire" blue. To my perception, it is more consistent with the current New Holland blue instead of Ford's Empire blue. I prefer a softer shade of blue, but you get what you get. Tisco's New Holland blue is a deeper and louder shade of blue than you see on the tractor here just in case you think someone bought the wrong paint. The Majik "Old Ford blue" is, in my opinion, much closer to the factory paint job. The rims and fenders were painted Tisco's "Light Ford Gray" and are spot on. I took the liberty of painting the fenders gray even though this tractor came from the factory (Sept. 13, 1965) with blue fenders. Evidently, a few of the very early 3-cylinder "Thousand series" tractors sported the blue fenders. I did some research from Ford's original brochures to find that tidbit. Shortly into production, it appears that painting the fenders light gray came into vogue. Finally, it was a real challenge to find two original mylar stickers for the hood. We found one in Wisconsin where it was in storage since 1993 and the second in Georgia where it was collecting dust since 1984.

tmac

 

[carmedic310]

You should use a scotchbrite pad to prepare the gloss finish for clear to get proper adhesion it will look good even if you don't but can peal down the road a bit.As far as waxing 100 percent carnuba wax can be put on any time after paint has dried it is actually derived from seaweed and does not seal the paint as it is porous.Any paint that has been catalized(hardner)goes thru a chemical process called cross linking it takes 90 days for the paint to cure.never put any silicone based waxes on untill 90 days or more after paint.It will seal the paint and prevent the solvents from escaping and your nice paint job will not be so nice over time

 

[carmedic310]

Although lacquer paints go on easy dry fast and look great when buffed to a mirror shine they are not used for automotive applications very much anymore as they are not a long lasting paint in general. It is a thermoplastic paint.Enamals with hardners(catalyst) are a thermoset paint thus better color holdout for longer periods and tougher finish even though most equipment paint is a synthetic or alkyd enamel.If you were doing a tractor for show or a museum that you want to last for many years urethane's or epoxy paints would be the choice but like everything today the better it is the more it cost