New House Build in the Country!!!

EddieWalker · Feb 23, 2016

Yes. But most of the time they get notched. Or at least in my experience they are notched.

GPintheMitten · Feb 23, 2016

Justin, the way your framers did it is common practice around here. It's fine.

justinramani · Feb 23, 2016

GPintheMitten said:
Justin, the way your framers did it is common practice around here. It's fine.

Where abouts are you?

EddieWalker · Feb 24, 2016

GPintheMitten said:
Justin, the way your framers did it is common practice around here. It's fine.

Just because that's the way it's done around "here", doesn't mean it's best practice. It is real simple to google gable end framing and look at the examples of how it should be done. Those gable ends look like what you would expect the local high school kids to do.

tractorshopper · Feb 24, 2016

I agree with Eddie on this one. Notching is the best way that I've seen to avoid future sag. That said, it is still done like Justin's here as well.

dragoneggs · Feb 24, 2016

mikefromnh said:
I love build threads on TBN! Really brings out the experts

Five pages on a ledger, LOL. fwiw almost every basement framed with dimensional lumber around here uses the same method for the center beam.

As far as the lack of a header above one opening.. It looks like there is going to a change in the roofing direction? So likely no need for a header since there be nothing above there for a header to support. I'd rather have room for insulation then an unnecessary header.

Looks like the framing crew knows what they are doing for their area. And are doing a fine job.

View attachment 457944

Regardless of whether the notch and ledger on joist end is code or not, it is not good engineering in my book. On the header question... agreed, if the truss is supported outboard it likely isn't necessary. One thing often not considered in house framing are true load paths and resulting deflections unless a highly unusual design is involved. Structurally probably not an issue but drywall cracks often shed light on it years later. Just saying. Overall, I agree that the framers are doing a fine job.

GPintheMitten · Feb 24, 2016

Justin, I'm in mid-Michigan.

They have essentially created a 2x6 ladder. The rungs would have to pull loose from the inboard 2x6 running up the rake. The way I build the ladder is to nail the "rungs" from the outside of each leg, then nail the the ladder to the rake on the gable wall. Once you nail the roof sheeting down the sheeting keeps the the ladder from arcing away from the building and the nails in the gable wall structure hold it in place.

This will support snow and wind load as it has been.

Can you make a stronger connection? Sure. You could make it make so you could have a dozen linebackers jumping up and down on the overhang, but everything costs time and money.

The question becomes what is required not what is stronger. And where do you spend your money on your build job to make something better than normal.

KennyG · Feb 24, 2016

dragoneggs said:
Regardless of whether the notch and ledger on joist end is code or not, it is not good engineering in my book.

Assuming this is the easiest and cheapest way to attach the joists (for this crew in this location) then I would say it's good engineering. Houses have been built like that for hundreds of years. There is no benefit to having a factor of safety of 10 in something that will never fail with a factor of safety of 2.

I remember in Engineering school when a professor explained about factor of safety. Rolls Royce had a slogan "Sewn with bolts". They typically used a dozen small bolts where others would use 3 or 4 large ones. In both cases a significant portion of the bolts could break without failure. The only difference was the cost of installing the part at RR was many times higher. It was a successful advertising campaign though.

Billrog · Feb 24, 2016

Just so the OP doesn't have any concerns about the over hang sagging I'll post a pick of the over hang on the garage side of my home I built 25 yrs. ago with double the overhang and it's had as much as 5' of snow sitting on it. I used trusses with no reduced gable and the same method. Before trusses were introduced all over hangs were supported by the ridge , shiplap & trim board. Reduced gables were introduced when 3/8 shting and obs were used for shting and over hangs did sag because many did have no other support. I have used them in a no. of applications but it isn't always necessary.