New Holland 2120 low oil pressure cold start

[Zerk]

Plugging the heater into a non GFI outlet, and it has been starting good. I had it on a trickle charger for about 2 months, and barely turned over. Either the trickle charger is not big enough or battery is bad. Put it on 10 amp charge all night, I didn't have anything smaller. Ran fine the next day, and then a week later.

So I think I got it figured out. Probably get a new battery this summer and engine heater. Good time to change out the cooling fluid.

 

[Zerk]

Does seem to idle high. Is there some type of choke that is not disengaging? Even after 3 hours it still idles high. Tach quit working. But other lights on dash work. Need to check fuse. It is at my camp, so time is limited. Plus cold.

 

[Jerry/MT]

My first winter with New Holland 1995 2120, 1900 hours. Manual says full throttle to start, but only starts at all the way back. Low oil light stays on. I started a few times, and let run 20 seconds, barely running.

Plugged it in, same thing. Turn key back the glow plug light does mit come on. Does when going forward.

If I let it warm up will light go out? Barely idles
But at higher throttle will not start. Cranking up after started doesn't seem to help.

Just starting to get cold, around 20 degrees. Ran last week 30s degrees.

Thanks for help.

The oil pressure relief valve maybe sticking open at cold temperatures, or it is going wide open because the viscosity is so high, the lube pump output pressure is forcing it open , reducing the oil pressure. Whatever you do, don't run it with the light on until you figure this out.

The oil viscosity may be to high for the ambient temperatures you are encountering. What SAE grade oil are you using? I'd advise you to consider a block heater for cold weather starting. For now check the owner's manual for the SAE grade oil you need for the ambient temps you are encountering. I live in a cold climate and use 15W40 oil year round. I start using my block heater when the temperature get below 40F, not because I have to (the tractor will start) but because it is easier on the engine to have 3 hrs of block heating and it warms up faster.

 

[jimmysisson]

I can't bear to listen to a cold engine starting at full throttle. On my 2120 I set the hand throttle to about 1000 rpm when I shut it off, then leave it there when starting. I always use a block heater - makes the most improvement in cold starting.
Jim

 

[Agvg]

The point of full throttle is to get maximum fuel in to the cylinder. If its cold you dont have any choice than but full throttle if you want to start.

 

[Btown]

The point of full throttle is to get maximum fuel in to the cylinder. If its cold you dont have any choice than but full throttle if you want to start.

My 1920 starts just fine in cold weather I set the throttle to about 1100-1200 rpms. Let it idle for 5 or so minutes in cold weather ( that's below freezing). I use my tractor to put out round bales for horses most of the time so it usually only running for 5-10 minutes.

 

[Agvg]

My cold weather can be -30C and in worst case lower and then full throttle is the only way, its no point to have full throttle if its not needed.

 

[Zerk]

Now that I got the heater off a GFI, it is starting easy with throttle down. Though it does seem to idle high. Oil ligh has not come on since I figured out the heater tripped the GFI.

 

[tawilson]

You said it was 20 degrees and the tractor was barely running when the oil light stayed on. Maybe your fuel was gelling and you weren't building up enough rpm's to get the oil pressure up.

 

[Zerk]

You said it was 20 degrees and the tractor was barely running when the oil light stayed on. Maybe your fuel was gelling and you weren't building up enough rpm's to get the oil pressure up.

Tat that is what I think it was. Now that I know the heater kicks out the GFI, it has ran good when plugged into a non GFI outlet. I will probably change out the heater this summer.

Ran it for 3 hours in teens ran great. Idles a little high I though, compared to this summer. Not sure if linkage is stuck or some type of automatic choke.