Splitting wood by hand

[PhysAssist]

Good call!

If my Fiskars gets stuck in wood, or if there is a tough spot, I will use a piece of split wood as a mallet to whack the back of the ax head. Works pretty good.

Later,
Dan

 

[3930dave]

Not sure if this one's been up here before...

Physics-exploiting axe splits wood in record time | News | Geek.com

Different design.... I'd need some feedback on hardwood use, before spending that kind of money.....

Rgds, D.

 

[grnspot110]

Not sure if this one's been up here before...

Physics-exploiting axe splits wood in record time | News | Geek.com

Different design.... I'd need some feedback on hardwood use, before spending that kind of money.....

Rgds, D.

Looks like it does work, at least on straight grained wood. At that price I think I'll pass though! Looks like he's splitting for "cookstove" wood. ~~ grnspot

 

[JFoy]

Old thread but thought I'd bump it.

I just retrofitted my house house with a wood stove in the basement. Planning to build a plenum to tie it into the old oil furnace duct work.

Question is, do you find it easier to split wood when green, after a season, or when it's clearly dry?

 

[motownbrowne]

Old thread but thought I'd bump it.

I just retrofitted my house house with a wood stove in the basement. Planning to build a plenum to tie it into the old oil furnace duct work.

Question is, do you find it easier to split wood when green, after a season, or when it's clearly dry?

I think it depends on the species. Usually I think green is best, and it dries much faster after splitting.

I just ordered a Fiskars X27 a few weeks ago. I know there's plenty of rave reviews of this maul, but I want to add mine to the list as well. For $54 delivered and with a lifetime warranty this tool is worth every penny. I also own a Gransfors Bruks splitting maul, which is much more handsome and is an incredible tool to use, but it was over 3X the price of the Fiskars. The Fiskars is great because it performs much like the Gransfors (they're still a bit different, hard to say one is better or worse), and I wouldn't worry about putting it in someone else's hands. At close to $200 and with a wooden handle, the Gransfors doesn't get handed over to just anyone.

 

[Paul Thornton]

I am a Fiskars 27 fan. I have split about 15 cord with mine and love it.

 

[RitchElbe]

The fancy shaped red axe, duplicates the skill of a good wood chopper..that being slightly tilting your axe to the side. Dad taught me that back in the 70's and I was a splitting beast for my age. But back in 2004 I ran across the Chopper1 axe and haven't looked back. It has kick out dogs that upon impact with the wood kicks in about an inch back from the edge and "kicks the force of the blow outwards pushing the wood apart" I love it and own 3.
https://youtu.be/1AmB1rF9Mlg

 

[bacrow]

Old thread but thought I'd bump it.

I just retrofitted my house house with a wood stove in the basement. Planning to build a plenum to tie it into the old oil furnace duct work.

Question is, do you find it easier to split wood when green, after a season, or when it's clearly dry?

I agree with motownbrowne in that it depends on the wood. Some species split easy when green, but I think most split easier with a little age. I don't usually let it sit a season or until it is dry, but waiting a few weeks seems to make it easier. That is usually enough time for the surface to dry and show the grain. That leads me where to strike first for the first split. It is all easier after the first split.

 

[PhysAssist]

The fancy shaped red axe, duplicates the skill of a good wood chopper..that being slightly tilting your axe to the side. Dad taught me that back in the 70's and I was a splitting beast for my age. But back in 2004 I ran across the Chopper1 axe and haven't looked back. It has kick out dogs that upon impact with the wood kicks in about an inch back from the edge and "kicks the force of the blow outwards pushing the wood apart" I love it and own 3.
https://youtu.be/1AmB1rF9Mlg

Just because I can't help being a smart a$$�, if it' s that good, why do you need three of them?

The only reason I have had 3 Fiskars, is that one got destroyed by my SWMBO using a sledgehammer to force it through a log she got it stuck in when I was disabled and couldn't split wood.

The 3rd one we bought is their heavier 4# splitting axe, and that only gets used rarely, when a particularly stubborn log happens to resist the regular axe.

Can I ask where you found that axe in the first place and how much green stuff did you spend on it (them).

I went to their website, and apparently they used to be sold at a bunch of Big Box stores like the Roebucks place and others, but were changed to a webstore only deal, and cost $89.99 (+shipping?).

The video link you posted makes it look good, but in the one on their website, the guy not only makes the effort he uses look heroic, but fails to split and gets the axe a little stuck twice.

If the pieces really keep flying out sideways, I would have to start using the technique where you put the log inside an old tire or risk getting really frustrated and worn out chasing the splits and picking them up to be resplit.

I was also going to say that the mechanism on the axe looks pretty complicated and futzy to keep operating, especially given the replacement parts they seem to think are important to also stock and offer for sale, however, compared to a hydraulic splitter with its need for oil, gas, and hydraulic fluid and regular maintenance, that would be straining at gnats.

Thanks for posting (another expensive toy I'll need to save up for and add to my arsenal.)
Thomas

 

[PhysAssist]

I agree with motownbrowne in that it depends on the wood. Some species split easy when green, but I think most split easier with a little age. I don't usually let it sit a season or until it is dry, but waiting a few weeks seems to make it easier. That is usually enough time for the surface to dry and show the grain. That leads me where to strike first for the first split. It is all easier after the first split.

Ditto, and the checking not only starts to split the wood for you and indicates weaker connections, but also indicates that the wood is seasoning well.