Fuel, 101 way's to get it

[s219]

Guess you got all the kinks work out, and sounds like the pumping is easy and fun. I don't think my little L3400 would lift that tank.

That would be easy for your L -- 100 gal of diesel is only 725#, and your loader can lift over 1000#.

 

[Oldpath05]

Nope the difference is in both the alloy and the flux. Plumbers use acid flux stuff that will rot your wires. For electrical work you want either 60/40 tin lead or even better the eutectic 63/37 alloy.

Flux used for electrical stuff is basically pine tree sap which is acidic when hot but neutral when cooled to room temp. Still I'll usually clean any flux residue off with a little rubbing alcohol, mostly because I'm a neat freak.

You're less likely to produce bad or what's called a cold solder joint with the eutectic stuff. You can get by with the more common and cheaper 60/40 stuff as long as you're careful to keep the joint still and un moving until the solder cools and solidifies.

Plumbers solder is either 50/50 alloy, tin costs more than lead, or either lead free these days since it's likely to be used for drinking water pipes.

I ordered some (Eutectic Rosin Core Solder), now does this stuff need flux to solder my cable connections?, having a hard time finding the flux for it.

 

[Oldpath05]

That would be easy for your L -- 100 gal of diesel is only 725#, and your loader can lift over 1000#.

If by chance I get a couple of 55 gal. barrels , I'm gonna do that experiment. Remember, in Me. there's a different's in liquid moving weight then solid none moving weight, liquid weight is a lot heavier, has something to do with magnetic north.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

If by chance I get a couple of 55 gal. barrels , I'm gonna do that experiment. Remember, in Me. there's a different's in liquid moving weight then solid none moving weight, liquid weight is a lot heavier, has something to do with magnetic north.

Apparently, everything is denser in Maine! Lol. :laughing:

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

(especially the women)

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Guess you got all the kinks work out, and sounds like the pumping is easy and fun. I don't think my little L3400 would lift that tank.

The fuel pumping was easy, but I haven't attached the filter yet That will be next week. Greasing the zeeks on the excavator was a different story. That's a lot of pumping. By the time I finished, my pecs were on fire. And there always seems to be another one. I'm going thru the manual to make sure I got them all.

 

[Wagtail]

I ordered some (Eutectic Rosin Core Solder), now does this stuff need flux to solder my cable connections?, having a hard time finding the flux for it.

"The flux cleans the surfaces, and if they're not too dirty the flux is sufficient to make a good strong solder joint (makes it "sticky" enough). There are two common types of flux cores: Acid and Rosin. Acid is for plumbing, and should NOT be used in electronics (it is likely to eat your components or boards)."

Simply put, the rosin core is the flux. You're good to go with just what you've got.

Just blow a wee bit of air from your mouth on it to keep from breathing in the smoke.

 

[dickfoster]

Not really you already have the flus. The rosin in the core is the flux. It becomes acid when heated, the acid removes the oxides so the metals can fuse together then becomes neutral again when the solder joint cools down.
You can remove any sticky flux residue if you want to with a little common rubbing alcohol and an old toothbrush or something. If you're soldering big wires with small gauge solder you can pull some off the reel and twist it together to make your solder larger for soldering larger wires and joints. For big wire like battery cables and such, I use a propane torch as the heat source. Just heat it up and when the solder melts it will flow into the joint following the heat just like soldering copper pipe joints. Apply heat the metal joint not the solder itself. They have liquid flux too but it's mostly just pine tree rosin, alcohol and sometimes an activator but I don't think you need it. As long as the stuff you're soldering is basically clean copper or tin plated copper, it will likely solder up OK.

 

[powerscol]

I have been reading through this and given the answers I got on my endeavor in my other threads, I need to ask another question. I can mount my Fill-Rite RD 8 vertically on my barrel, but saw someone turned a 90 from the top and had the pump on a board on top of the barrel. Looking at the plastic barrel and the reducer bung, the weak link is actually the top of the barrel around the fitting. I got thinking of the stress of the filler hose leveraging the pump mounted vertically as shown here http://www.fillrite.com/ProductCatalog/4089.pdf , (photo, bottom right hand corner mounted to barrel of the pdf) . I am thinking now of using 316 SS 3/4 fittings (stainless steel) and turn a 90 out of the bung, use a cam lock set of fittings into the pump (for quick disconnect), and mount the pump to a board that fit the elevation of the 90 and will rest on the tank top. Then the only leverage is a turning motion the fitting will take and give if necessary. The cam lock fitting also will give a bit too. I am thinking of using SS fittings to prevent any rust over time and they are stronger than brass or aluminum, at least I think they are.

Am I overthinking this? Thoughts?

Bottom line this whole set up can be moved to a larger tank later if needed.

 

[grsthegreat]

i do love my new fueling storage tank. took 1 minute to refuel the tractor..and i didnt have to climb on the tires to do it.