Multiprocess or just get a better mig machine

   / Multiprocess or just get a better mig machine #21  
Does the MP210 not AC weld? I use a lot of used drill stem that has some magnetism. It sure is nice to just not worry about and switch over to AC.
 
   / Multiprocess or just get a better mig machine #22  
i have a lincoln i20 mig that i have had for 25 or more yrs used for bodywork,lots of wire. just bought miller 211 that is 120 and 220 volt welds beautiful an does aluminum. love it. i also have a little ac/dc 250 stick welder for welding really big stuff. i almost exclusively now use the miller 211 now.
 
   / Multiprocess or just get a better mig machine #23  
I just learned to TIG a few months ago and it's been GREAT fun. Here's an oil line fitting project (engine pressure not hydraulic pressure). Screwed together fittings were getting kinda big. Cutting them apart and welding the parts back together as a custom fitting becomes feasible when you have a TIG. I have the Miller Multi-Matic200 MIG/TIG/Stick.

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   / Multiprocess or just get a better mig machine #24  
I just learned to TIG a few months ago and it's been GREAT fun. Here's an oil line fitting project (engine pressure not hydraulic pressure). Screwed together fittings were getting kinda big. Cutting them apart and welding the parts back together as a custom fitting becomes feasible when you have a TIG. I have the Miller Multi-Matic200 MIG/TIG/Stick.

460825d1457929985-multiprocess-just-get-better-mig-fitting1-jpg

460826d1457929985-multiprocess-just-get-better-mig-fitting2-jpg



Sodo, I tried to customize a couple fittings similar to the ones you showed with my tig and one of them made a mess with a bunch of smoke and slag.

Is it possible that some of these brass? bronze/ fittings are un-weldable?

I cranked up the amps and then it also deformed the fitting- so a complete fail on my attempt

Any thoughts on what I may be doing wrong?

I tried to just meld the to fittings together without rod so it must have something to do with the base metal??
 
   / Multiprocess or just get a better mig machine #25  
Dan you might put a magnet to the fittings you tried. I couldn't possibly tell someone what they did wrong, I feel pretty lucky when I get it right.

These are steel. I put them in muriatic acid for a few minutes to get the zinc off. Maybe the zinc was messing things up. As you can see these welded nicely. I don't have enough control to use filler rod yet. Note where I cut them (the red lines) I left that thin flange on so I didn't have to hold a filler rod.

With regard to OP's post I am very happy I chose a multi-process welder. However I wish it had AC TIG too but you can't have it all.
 
   / Multiprocess or just get a better mig machine #26  
Very good Sodo... I like the miniaturization mod! So that gold finish is a Zinc plating, eh? Just curious.
 
   / Multiprocess or just get a better mig machine #27  
Dan you might put a magnet to the fittings you tried. I couldn't possibly tell someone what they did wrong, I feel pretty lucky when I get it right.

These are steel. I put them in muriatic acid for a few minutes to get the zinc off. Maybe the zinc was messing things up. As you can see these welded nicely. I don't have enough control to use filler rod yet. Note where I cut them (the red lines) I left that thin flange on so I didn't have to hold a filler rod.

With regard to OP's post I am very happy I chose a multi-process welder. However I wish it had AC TIG too but you can't have it all.

Ahh - the ones i had were used and non magnetic -so definitely not steel.

I am also happy with my multi process, and so far it has been flawless, I even made a long heavy duty 240 volt extension cord and used 5/32 7018 at 200 amps and It welded great. The plasma cutter has come in very handy to.
These new inverter based units are the future for sure...
 
   / Multiprocess or just get a better mig machine #28  
Very good Sodo... I like the miniaturization mod! So that gold finish is a Zinc plating, eh? Just curious.

Well that fitting looks "gold" because of the lighting. It was a bright silver in real life. BUT there are 3 (or more) colors for zinc plating, Yellow, clear, & black. Yellow is the stuff that looks irridescent gold, like drywall screws. Clear is silver, which will turn gray outdoors, like galvanizing does. I don't know much about black.

Muriatic acid is dilute Hydrochloric acid, its used for etching concrete. A gallon is less than $10. I pour it in a plastic tub, etch/strip the item, and then pour it back into the same jug to use again and again. I store the jug outside so it doesn't corrode stuff in my garage. A fitting like the pic above boils like alka-seltzer intil the zinc is gone, then the steel goes pretty slowly, so dont leave for longer than necessary as you are losing steel. Or etching threads making them rough. In 2 minutes the zinc is gone. Maybe 10 mins light rust is gone. Pits develop in the surface, which holds paint real good. At 30 mins the pits can be significant, screw threads can be ruined.

You wash HCl with water, lots of it. Its strength is in its concentration so dilute dilute dilute. HCl is not a dangerous chemical per se but whatever is dissolved by it may be. Your stomach uses Hydrochloric acid for example. So for small fasteners you could swallow them but that can add a day or so (among other tasks) to your project. Problematic if the wife asks what "waiting for a couple fasteners to turn up" has to do with declining to go out for breakfast.
:D

You can change the focus to your "next welder purchase" with: "I'm becoming interested in the efficiencies of multi-process equipment...."
 
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   / Multiprocess or just get a better mig machine #29  
Sodo, I almost bought some "green" "muriatic" (which isn't a dilution IIRC, but just the OLD name for HCl) - but NOWHERE would they tell me the concentration :mad:

Where/what "version" do you get, and do you know the concentration?

BTW, I used to do this at work on small parts (with CONCENTRATED HCl), and found that a good neutralization method was a light rinse in HOT water, followed by spraying with Fantastik to help neutralize (pH between 11 and 12), then another HOT water rinse - a quick blow dry and the latent heat finishes the drying process FOR you.

Worked really well to turn a rusty pair of Channel locks into "nearly" new, just don't forget to oil 'em after or you get to do it again tomorrow :rolleyes:

Downside of retirement - Home Despot doesn't seem to carry CON HCl :laughing:

If you have a link or know the dilution, please share... Steve
 
   / Multiprocess or just get a better mig machine #30  
A masonry supply will have the strong stuff.
 

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