Adding rear hydraulics to L2250

bjorn773 · Mar 15, 2016

I know I'm running an old machine, but can I add rear hydraulics to my tractor. Is it a matter of teeing into the hydraulics for the FEL? I've found threads for L3200's and the like, but none on an old horse like mine. Will the same parts interchange or can I buy off the shelf parts at the tractor supply store?

teg · Mar 15, 2016

From tractordata.com your tractor has for it's hydraulics:
Type: open
Capacity: 8.2 gal
Pressure: 2275 psi
Pump flow: 6.7 gpm
Steering flow: 2.8 gpm

You can not "T" into the FEL, you have to put the valve in series. One after another. Whatever your valve needs to be able to handle 6.7 gpm flow (anything less, the oil will heat up). Do you have any photos of you hydraulic block? also, you FEL valves?

So you'll have high pressure in, high pressure out, and you'll also have Low Pressure return to the tank (you can "T" into that line with the new valve and the FEL valve).

bjorn773 · Mar 15, 2016

I will shoot some pictures.

bjorn773 · Mar 16, 2016

Here are the loader valve and what I assume is my hydraulic block

bjorn773 · Mar 16, 2016

If I'm understanding correctly, I would connect the return hose from my loader valve to the pressure/feed port on a new valve. Then the return from that new valve would connect back to my original hydraulic block return port. Is that what you are referring to as a series circuit? The hoses and new valve need to be capable of handling the loader valve flow, correct? The LP return hose could be teed into the existing LP return hose.

teg · Mar 16, 2016

bjorn773 said:
If I'm understanding correctly, I would connect the return hose from my loader valve to the pressure/feed port on a new valve.

Yes...

bjorn773 said:
Then the return from that new valve would connect back to my original hydraulic block return port. Is that what you are referring to as a series circuit?

Yes...

bjorn773 said:
The hoses and new valve need to be capable of handling the loader valve flow, correct?

Yes... I would get 8 gpm (and I personally would not get one too big, say 15 gpm)

bjorn773 said:
The LP return hose could be teed into the existing LP return hose.

Yes...

For me, I put the new valve before the FEL (doesn't matter where is goes) So I removed the high pressure IN from the FEL and put it in the new valve. Got a new hose to go from the new valve pressure out (power beyond) port and connected into the FEL high pressure (power IN) port. Then "T'ed" the low pressure return together. Sounds pretty simple but you need to know which port is which...

Do you have your tractor and FEL manuals? Mine had the ports listed in there... I don't know your model... and would hate to be guessing at this point.

PS. Locate and mount the new valve first!! So you cut up an old garden hose to route the hoses between the two valves, use the hose to measure the distances. One thing I did wrong was not getting hoses that had ends that had 90* bends and the correct fittings already attached to them.
Discount Hydraulic Hose I think might still be a sponsor of TBN, I don't know, I don't have any ads with my browser...

Gordon Gould · Mar 16, 2016

You are in good hands with teg. Here is a diagram of how I added a grapple valve in series with my loader. Maybe it will help. I put the new valve after the loader. Like teg says it doesn't matter - that is if you know which line is the power beyond out of the loader valve. If you don't know it would be easier putting your new valve before the loader valve. The power beyond from the new valve would go to the FEL valve Pressure in. The out from the new valve would go to tank. And the P in to the new valve would be the P in line you took off the loader valve.

gg

bjorn773 · Mar 16, 2016

I'm looking to add a hydraulic top link for my 3pt hitch, where would you recommend buying the cylinder and valve? Would like to use the same valve in winter to turn a 3pt back blade for snow.

Leejohn · Mar 16, 2016

One thing no one has said anything about is, the screwdriver slot on the hyd block. On my old L3010 it had to be stright up and down or sideways. One way it well shut the loader off. If you have a manual it shows it in there.