Maintenance myths

   / Maintenance myths #1  

RalphVa

Super Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2003
Messages
7,902
Location
Charlottesville, VA, USA
Tractor
JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
I'm wondering about some maintenance recommendations. In checking out my JD 2025R vs. a Kubota B2301, I found that Kubota had no cleanout of the hydraulic suction screens as recommended by JD @ 50 and 250 hours.

Also, JD (and my Isuzu diesel generator) recommend changing the anti freeze every year (or 1,000 hours) (this is Isuzu) and every other year (JD). Whereas, cars and trucks now are recommending 100k miles changes of antifreeze. Unless one has a head gasket leak, how's the stuff go bad in 1 or 2 years? Makes more sense to go the 1,000 hours.

I'm thinking over zealous maintenance can cause more potential damage than not.

Ralph
 
   / Maintenance myths #2  
I agree that it's easy to get carried away with too much maintenance, but find that the most common problems with tractors and cars is the lack of maintenance. One thing that struck me when I bought my zero turn mower is that they put a plug in at the spindle for the front tires and the dealer said that Scag removed the zirk fittings from there because people where over greasing it. They want it done at 100 hours, and not all the time. I do it once a year, regardless of hours, but that's just me.
 
   / Maintenance myths #3  
I am wondering what failure mode would be caused by overgreasing.
 
   / Maintenance myths #4  
current op manual for 2025r says "if" coolant is not checked annually the service interval is 2 years 2000 hours. If the coolant is checked annually it is 6 years 6000 hours. So if you don't test the coolant, then correct every other year. If you check it and add appropriate conditioner if needed then the 6 year program is just fine.
 
   / Maintenance myths #6  
I'm wondering about some maintenance recommendations. In checking out my JD 2025R vs. a Kubota B2301, I found that Kubota had no cleanout of the hydraulic suction screens as recommended by JD @ 50 and 250 hours.

Also, JD (and my Isuzu diesel generator) recommend changing the anti freeze every year (or 1,000 hours) (this is Isuzu) and every other year (JD). Whereas, cars and trucks now are recommending 100k miles changes of antifreeze. Unless one has a head gasket leak, how's the stuff go bad in 1 or 2 years? Makes more sense to go the 1,000 hours.

I'm thinking over zealous maintenance can cause more potential damage than not.

Ralph


You may be 'wondering' and 'thinking', but that doesn't correlate to actual facts. Coolant needs to be changed when recommended based on what was used by the manufacturer and the metals the coolant comes in contact with while in use. There are many types of coolant on the market and some require more frequent changes, depending on additive packages or lack thereof. AND coolant breaks down over time, and creates immovable sludge, without any head gasket issues or leaks.

Too frequent maintenance?! I don't think so. Don't do the maintenance if you don't want to, your loss. Cleaning screens on hydraulics makes sense, regardless of what one vs. another manufacturer states.

Cars and trucks see frequent use, generators don't. Chemicals break down, build up toxins based on use or lack thereof. Total different parameters for each kind of machine.

Think before drawing apple to orange comparisons.
 
   / Maintenance myths #7  
Over greasing of some things can cause you to blow out seals. Thats not good.

Similar to overfilling a engine with oil.

But the scag front spindle setup, at least on mine.....not the case. Mine got zerks put back in and they stay there. I give them a few pumps a few times a year.

IMO, the biggest myth or misconception on machine maintenance in general, is people thinking they HAVE to buy the OEM fluids and filters.

Not saying there is anything wrong with doing so, but not a requirement, and if you use good quality aftermarket stuff, you arent gonna shorten the life of anything on your machine if you use properly spec'd stuff
 
   / Maintenance myths #8  
I am wondering what failure mode would be caused by overgreasing.

On an old Massey, over greasing the rockshaft will eventually fill the differential and cause hydraulic pump failure. Otherwise if you see the old grease exit when greasing a joint, I see no problem unless you let it run out on the floor.
 
   / Maintenance myths #9  
Over greasing of some things can cause you to blow out seals. Thats not good.

Similar to overfilling a engine with oil.

But the scag front spindle setup, at least on mine.....not the case. Mine got zerks put back in and they stay there. I give them a few pumps a few times a year.

IMO, the biggest myth or misconception on machine maintenance in general, is people thinking they HAVE to buy the OEM fluids and filters.

Not saying there is anything wrong with doing so, but not a requirement, and if you use good quality aftermarket stuff, you arent gonna shorten the life of anything on your machine if you use properly spec'd stuff

New filter "specs" is proprietary information (all colors/brands do this). All that the aftermarket can do is cut apart and attempt to reverse engineer. So that it fits the application but does not necc do the same thing. Probably overkill for lower priced machines like l&g, but buyer beware there is some junk out there in the aftermarket world and unless it is a filter that has been around for many years the aftermarkets DO NOT have specs for any brand of oem filters. I know, someone will say that this oem has filters built by this company, etc. But the last thing that filter company wants to do is tick off the oem, get sued, lose a lot of money and a customer. IMAO
 
   / Maintenance myths #10  
current op manual for 2025r says "if" coolant is not checked annually the service interval is 2 years 2000 hours. If the coolant is checked annually it is 6 years 6000 hours. So if you don't test the coolant, then correct every other year. If you check it and add appropriate conditioner if needed then the 6 year program is just fine.

I need to add a conditioner to the antifreeze in my 2720? What kind of stuff is it and where do i get some? I guess I'm on the 6 year plan because I add to it when it gets low and never thought about changing it.
 
   / Maintenance myths #11  
I need to add a conditioner to the antifreeze in my 2720? What kind of stuff is it and where do i get some? I guess I'm on the 6 year plan because I add to it when it gets low and never thought about changing it.

At the antifreeze conditioner additives store, duh!:)
Most automotive stores sell additives for various coolants.

What you don't want is for the existing coolant to get sludgy, which could happen for various reasons including adding water with high mineral content instead of distilled, if/ when toping up the overflow tank, for instance.
Coolant is different than it used to be, and for the most part CAN last longer between changes so long as one checks it consistancy/freeze point, etc.
 
   / Maintenance myths #12  
If the parts house is not sure what additive to sell to you your dealer should be able to provide the appropriate additive (they have 2, one for original coolgard and one for coolgard II). You can get the litmus paper strips to test just about anywhere (or you can buy the more expensive refractometer sp?). Don't add conditioner without testing first, that could also lead to the sludge that coyote mentions.
 
   / Maintenance myths #13  
I am wondering what failure mode would be caused by overgreasing.

The clothes washer that has to be used more extensively because of the extra grease getting on your waxing rags!
 
   / Maintenance myths #14  
The clothes washer that has to be used more extensively because of the extra grease getting on your waxing rags!
And my clothes. I hardly ever grease the swivel wheels on my mowers. My Dixie chopper says to grease the blade bearings every 1000 hours or once a year. My other mowers recommend much more frequent greasing. I have never changed antifreeze. The life of a water pump is about 20 years, and I change the antifreeze then.
 
   / Maintenance myths #15  
Coolant breaks down with heat, ironic I know. Once the anti-foaming agents are gone, air bubbles then travel through the system causing cavitation. These little bubbles, although seemingly harmless, destroy anything metal over time. So I always change me coolant in all my vehicals every two years. This required a new timing cover because the water pump can no longer seal...

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   / Maintenance myths #16  
Coolant breaks down with heat, ironic I know. Once the anti-foaming agents are gone, air bubbles then travel through the system causing cavitation. These little bubbles, although seemingly harmless, destroy anything metal over time. So I always change me coolant in all my vehicals every two years. This required a new timing cover because the water pump can no longer seal...

attachment.php

This is exactly what I was thinking about when I read the original question. Some engines with sleeved cylinders are know for having problem with cavitation and developing pinholes in the cylinders if the coolant degrades too far.
 
   / Maintenance myths #17  
Yep, the air bubbles, especially if containing minerals from hard water are like ball bearings shot blasting all aluminum parts. This leads to internal destruction of the metal parts like water pumps, etc.
 
   / Maintenance myths #18  
I change oil and filters every year in my tractors even though the hours are under the recommended number from the manufacturer. I typically grease the machines good at that time and blow out the air filters and inspect to see if they need replacing. I typically change out the antifreeze every three years with pre-charged antifreeze so I don't need to mess with additives. Works for me so far. My rear finish mower gets more frequent greasing on the wheels. The owners manuals call for every 25 hours of use on the spindles but I probably do it every 15 or 20 hours out of habit. No issues yet after 28 years.
 
   / Maintenance myths #19  
My mower spindles warn of overgreasing. When I inquired, the manufacture informed me that it was less about "blowing" the seal, and more about heat reductions. From what I gathered too much grease fills the cavity and then the heat stays in the bearing, and blammo.

I tend to extend my oil changes when working with Synthetics on older machines. new machines I follow the synthetic indicators. Don't own anything relevant with coolant issues.
 
   / Maintenance myths #20  
I am wondering what failure mode would be caused by overgreasing.

Finishing up -head into house , sit in recliner to find a big grease smear on the lazy boy:D
 

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