stump removal

[merlebo02]

other than a stump grinder, what is the best method to remove multiple stumps?? I am thinking a 50 gal drum around the stump and setting it on fire?? Any other proven methods out there?

 

[mkr7734]

other than a stump grinder, what is the best method to remove multiple stumps?? I am thinking a 50 gal drum around the stump and setting it on fire?? Any other proven methods out there?

My next door neighbor rented a mini (18 ton) so not too small,,,excavator and removed 20 + some stumps last year in three days. From 4" to 20" in Dia. Fire takes for ever and does not get to the roots. I think it cost him $1300.00 for the machine for a week + hauling. We had a 30" stump where we built our house and I had many many fires on it as I cleared the land. It took a 20 ton Deere excavator 20 minutes to dig it out before they could dig the rest of the basement hole. You got to grind the core out of them or dig them up......
Hope this helps.

 

[Code54]

If you want it out anytime soon and can afford to spend a few bucks - backhoe/Mini Ex. (rent around us is $200 for a 7K mini ex for 10 hrs on the weekend)
Just took at 14" stump out tonight in about an hr with a little BX25. Over the years I have dug out a bunch and while it is a pain when I am done there is no root, or anything to get in the way or for the mower to hit.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I had a HUGE Vermeer machine and now just a litle Steiner grinder. It never ceases to amaze me how long stumps stay rock solid for so long in the ground. Yet your deck, high and dry, away from the ground, rots in a couple of years.

An excavator is still king! It depends what kind of stumps, how big they are and how many? You could burn them and still have the main roots to contend with. You tube has some various videos. One of my favourite, is one using a passenger car. It does the job, but the stump flies through the hatchback window!

 

[mkr7734]

I guess another question would be why do you need it gone? To grow grass where it is or build a building foundation where it is make a huge difference in what you would need to do.

 

[merlebo02]

thanks for the replies guys!! I have a rental place near buy, I will check on the cost for an excavator..

 

[merlebo02]

I guess another question would be why do you need it gone? To grow grass where it is or build a building foundation where it is make a huge difference in what you would need to do.

I have a barn that I am redoing that had grown up pretty bad with trees around it.. Just trying to clean up around the barn and make travel around it easier..

 

[Code54]

Might I add that the mini Ex's are a LOT of fun to run!!!

 

[tractchores]

If just yard then get a stump grinder. Super cheap and easy, just get one large enough. If building on it you have to get it all, which means an excavator or bh

 

[mkr7734]

If just yard then get a stump grinder. Super cheap and easy, just get one large enough. If building on it you have to get it all, which means an excavator or bh

I have removed over 100 stumps with two different grinders and you are right they work fine and unlike a excavator removal when you grind them out there is nothing left but chips. With the excavator you have this stump with roots and dirt to deal with. Small stuff under 16" a rental grinder would be great for around the barn. They both do a fine job, it just depends on the job you have to do.

 

[flyerdan]

Remember the good old days when you could go to the hardware store and get a case of DuPont 40% and a box of blasting caps and knock a bunch of stumps loose enough to be pulled by just about anything?

 

[shadetree]

That was my first thought. DINE O MIGHT the thought that you can't do that anymore didn't even enter my mind. He wouldn't let me anywhere near but that's what my dad did when I was a boy but things were different 60 years ago.

 

[TractorGuy]

Mini excavators are a blast to operate but rental can get up high pretty quick and they tear the ground up something fierce. I rented a 7000 lb mini for a weekend and didn't get a lot done for my money. They are also limited and a big stump can take a fair amount of time to dig out. I dug some out the excavator wouldn't pick up to move so plan on dragging with your tractor after getting the big ones out. I also ran into some it just flat wouldn't dig out.

I have a pretty large project so I ended up buying a backhoe to tackle it myself. Even a 15,000 lb backhoe can take 2 to 3 hours of digging on a large stump.

For a small project I would get a quote from someone on having it done and compare that to the cost of rental. Problem is you won't know how much rental time you need till you get into it.

 

[Hiltz]

I have a barn that I am redoing that had grown up pretty bad with trees around it.. Just trying to clean up around the barn and make travel around it easier..

View attachment 463754

Looks to me like you need to dig up the barn and clean around the trees to make travel easier. Ok... Im just kidding

 

[Jim Timber]

Last year I had a 3 trunked basswood burning for 4 days and there was still 1/2 of it left when I got a buddy to come hit it with his 3pt grinder. 2 months later, I started building my own grinder.

As has been mentioned, when you dig one out, you end up with a stump that doesn't burn well and takes up a good amount of space. Digging for a foundation, you'll remove what's left of the roots when you excavate anyway. There's no down side to grinding them.

When you grind the center of the stump out, it makes pulling out the roots a whole bunch easier with your root grapple. Most of the time I just bring them down below the surface level. If I'm working an area that having decay would be negative, or where I might run a tiller, then I'll grind down to where there's nothing but roots left and then come back with the grapple and rip it all clean.

Granted, I have close to 60pto horsepower; but it's not a slow process (for me). I'd hate to have to grind more than a 12" stump with one of the rental gnawers they have at Home Depot for $250/4hrs. Their rental rates are what pushed me over into building my own - doesn't take more than a week to break even, and I have my own machine out of it.

 

[Mysfyt]

Last year I had a 3 trunked basswood burning for 4 days and there was still 1/2 of it left when I got a buddy to come hit it with his 3pt grinder. 2 months later, I started building my own grinder.

As has been mentioned, when you dig one out, you end up with a stump that doesn't burn well and takes up a good amount of space. Digging for a foundation, you'll remove what's left of the roots when you excavate anyway. There's no down side to grinding them.

When you grind the center of the stump out, it makes pulling out the roots a whole bunch easier with your root grapple. Most of the time I just bring them down below the surface level. If I'm working an area that having decay would be negative, or where I might run a tiller, then I'll grind down to where there's nothing but roots left and then come back with the grapple and rip it all clean.

Granted, I have close to 60pto horsepower; but it's not a slow process (for me). I'd hate to have to grind more than a 12" stump with one of the rental gnawers they have at Home Depot for $250/4hrs. Their rental rates are what pushed me over into building my own - doesn't take more than a week to break even, and I have my own machine out of it.

Jim, got any pictures or video of your grinder?

 

[Jim Timber]

I don't always wear orange, it was rifle deer season and that's the law here.

 

[carmedic310]

Problem with burning is sometimes the roots will burn underground.If a root burns anywhere something could catch fire it could turn into more of a hassle than its worth.I have a shaver SC25 grinder big stumps can take up to 4 hours to grind and i havent seen a stump yet over 10 -12 inches that don't grow rocks LOL.Just remember most places you rent a grinder will charge you for any teeth you break and it can get quite costly.

 

[Mysfyt]

I don't always wear orange, it was rifle deer season and that's the law here.

That is one solid unit you built there!

You look good in orange, BTW. (chuckle, chuckle.........)

 

[Jim Timber]

That is one solid unit you built there!

You look good in orange, BTW. (chuckle, chuckle.........)

It took some trial and error with lighter parts in a couple places, but it's not sweating anything anymore. I tried using pillow blocks on my up/down pins and they broke almost immediately. Then I replaced them with steel and ended up twisting the series 4 shaft 120 degrees about it's length and the binding of the shaft from being pretzeled ended up breaking one of the steel blocks replacing the bearings. So I replaced the pillow block replacements with heavier steel weldments and upgraded the shaft to a series 7. Now the only thing I want to change is adding a H-joint to the clutch U-joint and make it a double cardan instead of the single so it's not cogging at full swing and more than half lift.

The wheel is 3/4" steel, and the gear box is an 83hp Omni. I have the clutch set pretty soft so it'll spin instead of jarring the PTO output gears if you stick it. The red oak in that video was around 16" DBH and as you saw it took less than 6 minutes to make it vanish. Once I get my twin spool valve plumbed into the tractor's hydraulics instead of running off the rear SCV, I'll have more depth control with the hydraulic top link too. Getting that plumbing done is on the short list for this spring.