My new 4300 project

   / My new 4300 project #21  
My Deere dealer sells the paint, in addition to the rattle cans. Maybe they can order for you...
 
   / My new 4300 project #22  
I have had really good luck with the Majic brand tractor paint... in the big cans. The rattle cans, my experience is about the same add any other rattle can paint. But the big can stuff, that I put thru my own sprayer, really looks and finishes nice and strong.
 
   / My new 4300 project
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#23  
I have had really good luck with the Majic brand tractor paint... in the big cans. The rattle cans, my experience is about the same add any other rattle can paint. But the big can stuff, that I put thru my own sprayer, really looks and finishes nice and strong.

Interesting, how long have you seen it stand up? We don't get that much sun here and most of my stuff gets stored inside year round anyway.
I just bought 4 cans of green and 2 cans of yellow OEM paint from my JD dealer. That wasn't cheap (~$80) and I'm really considering returning them and just using the Majic paint.
 
   / My new 4300 project #24  
I slapped it on my big Ford Rotary mower 2 years ago with a brush and that still looks really good.

I sprayed it on my seeder last year and it's sat outside all winter and still looks fresh.

I'll try to snap pics when I get a chance.

If it were me, I'd just make sure I viewed it as a total repaint, and not by trying to match the original, or even the new JD paint... Because regardless, I assume there will always be differences on how it finishes and ages.
 
   / My new 4300 project
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#25  
Well I brushed on the Majic this weekend. Mixed results. Being able to cut in the difficult to get to areas without spending all day masking was nice, but on the large sections the brush streaks are unacceptable. I should have waited till it warmed up outside, reduced it, and run in through the gun.
On the bright side it's all one color now and has a thick layer of green on now. I'll give it a couple weeks to fully harden and sand it all flush. The thick layer of green will be kind of nice in a way because I can sand out some of the imperfections coming through. Using the hardener definitely helped, but the OEM Valspar JD yellow I sprayed on the wheels still dried quicker.
Once I've sanded the visible areas of the cab I'll mask it off and paint with rattle cans of the Valspar JD green. The OEM JD paint comes in a valspar box from valspar so I'm going to guess that the Valspar brand from Fleet Farm is going to be just about the same stuff as long as I can find it. I think the Majic paint is good stuff, I just didn't apply it right and it's taking a long time to dry in the cold.
No pictures of the paint because I am so unhappy with the application of it.

While the paint was drying I pulled the roll bar and right fender off to replace the hydraulic lines. No problems, dealer lines were a perfect fit-just expensive.

The last major issue I need to deal with is my missing right side rear three point arm/links. I'm missing the right side draft link, adjustable lift link, and stabilizer. That's $666.93+s&h in dealer parts and I've struck completely out finding used ones. All the generic arms I find don't have holes in the right places and seem somewhat flimsy. I'm debating buying the complete $200 kit from weavers with the arms that match the closest, or make my own draft link and stabilizer, and buy a TSC adjustable link.
Right now I'm leaning toward building my own arm using some 3/4" x 2-3/8" bar stock and welding repair ends on.
 
   / My new 4300 project
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Been stupid busy at work, haven't had a chance to play with the tractor much. It's been snowing a lot recently so I've been back at it in the evenings. Made some pallet forks and started making a new 3-point arm to replace my missing one after giving up the search for a used one. Should be pretty simple and a whole lot cheaper than new from deere. None of the aftermarket ones were very close to being the same so I figured I'd be better off making my own so it's exactly the same (or better) than factory.

0405162113.jpg0403161826b.jpg0403161826a.jpg0403161826.jpg
 
   / My new 4300 project
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#27  
0407161917a.jpg0407161917.jpg0407161917b.jpg0407161833.jpg

Got the draft link done. Turned out pretty good. I ended up breaking the tack welds from above and grinding the tip of the bar stock at an angle. It now is identical to the dimensions of the JD link. Ball centerline and angles are the same. It also has more freedom in the transmission ears than the stock arm and more room to the inside of the arm to the attachment. I'm not sure why the stock arms had such strange offset ends.
I made mine from a 24" piece of 2.5" x 3/4" bar stock, bent it with a 50 ton press, welded on ball ends from agri supply that were $5 a piece, and drill the holes in the same spots as the original. I also made the lift link from a $15 agri supply link and cut off the top and welded a ball on that. >$500 savings over JD. I haven't made a stabalizer yet, not sure if I want to duplicate the pin hole thing that is stock, I haven't used it much but I think I'd prefer to have a chain and bell crank. I find the multipin hole link unnecessarily complicated.
 
   / My new 4300 project #28  
Comment: Your welds look great as does your build/fab job. :thumbsup:

Suggestion, if you are going to use this rig in brush, change out the quick clips (shown in pic #3) with bolt/lock nuts or you risk losing that arm and some serious damage to casting can happen.

Also, with using the quick hitch you show, then the need for frequent changes in the stabilizers is reduced considerably. I only have one 3 pt attachment now that isn't iMatch ready to hook up and go.
 
   / My new 4300 project
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Thanks!

That's actually a pallet carrier that I'm using to carry a pallet with weight on it in lieu of a weight box (next thing to build). I don't have a quick hitch but that's on my list, I'll probably wait for a 25% off coupon and get one from harbor freight. It seems like they are the same as all the rest unless you buck up for the deere brand. I guess I've been lucky enough to not lose those clips on tractors in the past. Usually I rotate the pins so that gravity is helping the pin stay in. At the very least I replace those pins when they don't spring as well any more, but I'll probably take your advice and use bolts when I get a quick hitch.
 
   / My new 4300 project #30  
K on the carry all... see it now.

And only takes one well placed stick to rip off the bail on the pins.. regardless of how much spring is left. So rare that those arms are ever removed.. unless you exchange with a backhoe. Good on your builds.
 
   / My new 4300 project
  • Thread Starter
#31  
K on the carry all... see it now.

And only takes one well placed stick to rip off the bail on the pins.. regardless of how much spring is left. So rare that those arms are ever removed.. unless you exchange with a backhoe. Good on your builds.

O I see what you are saying, you said third picture which confused me. You meant the first picture which shows the pins at the transmission case? Yes, I'll bolt those, good idea. Makes sense now!
 
   / My new 4300 project #32  
Yes, but thought that was 3rd pic.
Need glasses.. :)
 
   / My new 4300 project
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Kinda forgot to update this, everything's been working well. I love having the heated cab.

Had to go open up the neighbors driveway last weekend. They hadn't been keeping up on plowing and it drifted in on them. I took my time in low gear and the model 59 blower just kept doing it's thing. Never got stuck despite a coating of ice on the driveway underneath.
0108171536.jpg
Pulled it in the shop last night to de-ice and get some more lighting.
0109172101.jpg
 
   / My new 4300 project #35  
Looks like some heavy snow! Looking good
 
   / My new 4300 project #36  
Kinda forgot to update this, everything's been working well. I love having the heated cab.

Had to go open up the neighbors driveway last weekend. They hadn't been keeping up on plowing and it drifted in on them. I took my time in low gear and the model 59 blower just kept doing it's thing. Never got stuck despite a coating of ice on the driveway underneath.
View attachment 494513
Pulled it in the shop last night to de-ice and get some more lighting.
View attachment 494512

Yeah, turf tires are great in the snow!

LED lights are great...might want to consider good quality lamps. I'm still using factory lighting (I also have a Curtis Cab) on the front...replaced the rear work light with an LED Light Bar
 

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   / My new 4300 project
  • Thread Starter
#37  
I'm finding I like to turn off the factory headlights and just use the lightbar on top of the cab. The normal headlights reflect off the snow and make it hard to see. I made a punched angle iron "halo" that sets on the cab with magnets so I can take it off easily to get under the 7' door. Right now it is jankly wired with some speaker wire twisted and taped just to get working.

Tonight I'm working on wiring in a 7-way flat RV style trailer connector on the tractor to power the light halo, and adding some small square LED lights all around for 360* of lighting. My plan is to wire it in so that the AUX power pin will run the LED lights and the reverse power pin will run an amber beacon.
The rest of the pins will be hooked up to the tail and running lights so I can use it to run and test trailer lights.

I'm just buying the cheapest LED lights on ebay and so far they look to be identical to more expensive units which are also made in china. We'll see how long they last. I just bought an 8-pack of 4" square 48watt lights for $44 delivered, should be here today.
8PC Square 48W 4'' Spot LED Work Light Bar Driving Offroad SUV ATV 4WD 12V/24V E
 
   / My new 4300 project #38  
   / My new 4300 project
  • Thread Starter
#39  
Well crap, looks like I need to rebuild the engine. Started noticing a whole lot of crankcase blowby and a miss. Tore the engine down (hardest part was pulling the tank, they really don't make that easy) and took some measurements. The cross hatching in all 3 cylinders looked suspiciously good. I couldn't tell if the head had been off before or not.
I'm thinking someone might have honed it in the past with stock bore when it should have been pulled and bored oversized.




I took some measurements and she needs rebuilt

Cyl. aA___aB_____bA_____bB_____cA_____cB
1 84.02066 84.02574 84.02066 84.04098 84.0232 84.0232
2 84.02574 84.01812 84.02828 84.03844 84.03336 84.01558
3 84.01304 84.03844 84.0105 84.05622 84.01304 84.03844
 
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   / My new 4300 project #40  
I have the mounting kit for the mower deck cylinder and mounts. I all so have a like new deck with all brackets.
 

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