Vintage Kitchen Sink Plumbing Connections -- HELP!

[Infinite Wisdom]

We need some advice and wisdom./
We own an old, restored farmhouse and we have located an interesting Vintage Sink for our Kitchen. It is a double well sink. One of the drain holes has the remnants of the previous metal drain connection stuck in place. This metal part sleeves through the hole from the sink interior bottom to the underside of the sink. This was connected to the household drain plumbing.

How do we remove this old metal fitting without damaging the sink. The sink is porcelain.

Do we use heat? Do we cut relief cuts in the metal remnant in an attempt to coax the old fitting from the sink? We are concerned that the wrong approach to this task could fracture the sink.

I have photos of the metal sink fitting from top and bottom.

Please help us with this.

Thanks.

- Robin


*** New Photos at Post # 12

 

[teejk]

Looks like the remnants of the old drain basket which should simply be a large locking ring (probably brass if it's old). PB Blaster/Liquid wrench/other penetrating oil and/or heat? A special basin wrench might be required (Home Depot sells them...not real expensive other than you'll likely use it again because the newer baskets don't require them. Push comes to shove a Dremel with a cutting wheel or grinder? That locking ring is not very thick on the old ones and "hugs" the bottom of the sink closely so be careful.

 

[JRobyn]

On something that old and probably corroded, IMHO, you'd be risking damaging the old porcelain by applying very much heat or mechanical force by trying to wrench it off. Even with liberal applications of PB Blaster or other penetrating oil.

If it was mine, I'd take a small reinforced fiber cutting disk in a Dremel and carefully cut through the ring nut on the bottom side. You won't be able to get it cut all the way through without also cutting into the existing tailpiece, but it looks like that should be replaced anyway.

Once you have cut a slot through most of the ring nut you should be able to insert a flat blade screwdriver in the slot and twist it to break the remaining metal. Removal should then be very easy.

 

[teejk]

On something that old and probably corroded, IMHO, you'd be risking damaging the old porcelain by applying very much heat or mechanical force by trying to wrench it off. Even with liberal applications of PB Blaster or other penetrating oil.

If it was mine, I'd take a small reinforced fiber cutting disk in a Dremel and carefully cut through the ring nut on the bottom side. You won't be able to get it cut all the way through without also cutting into the existing tailpiece, but it looks like that should be replaced anyway.

Once you have cut a slot through most of the ring nut you should be able to insert a flat blade screwdriver in the slot and twist it to break the remaining metal. Removal should then be very easy.

After I posted above I started wondering whether the locking ring is already gone and the basket is merely adhered to the sink with old plumbers putty (with age it turns to concrete). If that is the case then a piece of 2x4 on the tail-piece and light taps with a hammer until it breaks lose. Then a case of beer as he cleans-up the sink to accept the new baskets! WD40 and a stiff brush works for me...just be gentle.

 

[teejk]

Duplicate

 

[jerrybob]

Mix up a 50/50 solution of automatic transmission fluid and acetone......apply solution....let it sit a few minutes.....apply another coat.....keep doing that....eventually it will loosen up.

 

[Infinite Wisdom]

Thanks for all of the advice.

A couple of more details that may be important::

- The sink is "vitreous china". (Not Cast Iron as I had been told by the seller) I understand that vitreous china is more fragile and may not like Heat or even light tapping. ?????

- There is no tailpiece left. The underside of the sink drain is cut flush with the sink itself.

- I don't want to damage the sinks very nice finish. Will products like transmission fluid, acetone, PB Blaster, do any harm?

- The problem might indeed be old plumber's putty that has turned concrete like.

- Could I NOT remove the existing metal remnant and "sleeve" some new plumbing parts through the existing hole?

Keep the thoughts coming. Thanks.

- Robin

 

[LittleBill21]

dremel is the best option if you don't want to pry or heat or use some form of liquid

 

[teejk]

Thanks for all of the advice.

A couple of more details that may be important::

- The sink is "vitreous china". (Not Cast Iron as I had been told by the seller) I understand that vitreous china is more fragile and may not like Heat or even light tapping. ?????

- There is no tailpiece left. The underside of the sink drain is cut flush with the sink itself.

- I don't want to damage the sinks very nice finish. Will products like transmission fluid, acetone, PB Blaster, do any harm?

- The problem might indeed be old plumber's putty that has turned concrete like.

- Could I NOT remove the existing metal remnant and "sleeve" some new plumbing parts through the existing hole?

Keep the thoughts coming. Thanks.

- Robin

Vitreous china on a sink is new to me (most porcelain sinks have that coating over a cast iron form). Wow...you are essentially dealing with a fine dinner plate. Google "how to dissolve plumber's putty" (you'll be working from the top and might have to soak it repeatedly so keep it over some type of catch basin). If you get the old one out then you will need new strainer baskets anyway and they will hopefully fit your sink (your initial pix showed what looked to be a standard recess on the top...your new basket will sit in that with new plumber's putty or I guess many plumbers now simply use clear silicone caulk to seat them). Being vitreous china you'll need to be very careful in securing the new basket from the underside...I know a few people that tried to install their own toilets and over-tightened...that "crack" noise is never a good thing.

 

[EddieWalker]

On every job that I've been on with something like this, I've always been able to chip or sand it away until it finally gave up and came off. I might go through quite a few sanding disks on my dremel, or air cutting spinning tool that I cannot think of the real name for. I've never heard of Vitreous china either. Given it's age and delicate nature, using chemicals makes a lot of sense. Muriatic acid or Goo Gone or Turpintine, Carberator Cleaner or Break Cleaner or Acetone or maybe even WD40 might work. Just gonna have to soak it and let the chemicals break it down over time.

Good luck.