Footing AFTER a pole barn is built

[KenB2920]

As anyone ever heard of putting the brick footings in AFTER a pole barn is built?

I spoke with a builder yesterday. He said after the building is erected, then the footing for a brick ledge can be installed. I was surprised. Anyone?

The reason is, I need to have brick on the face of my garage. As I am still getting quotes, it appears thin brick may end up costing more than full brick for material and labor.

I am just crunching numbers and getting ideas how this all works.

Also, if you have any "thank god I did this when I built my barn" or " I should of done that" or " this was a waste I wouldn't do again" let me know.

Just a rough idea of what I'm looking for (that I'm getting bids for.

32x56 with 16 foot ceiling (this is about the biggest I can go in the particular area.
6" concrete with wire reinforces
12x14 roll up insulated door in front
12x10 roll up insulated door in back
A few Windows
A man door
Vapor barrier under concrete
1/2" OSB covered with vinyl siding
Front will be brick (hence the question)
30 year dimensional shingle

 

[KenB2920]

Oh yeah, and 12" overhang all the way around.

 

[KennyG]

This is done all the time. Just keep in mind that the brick ledge needs to go to the same depth as a foundation. We backfit face brick onto a house that originally just had siding. We excavated down over 4 feet and poured the brickledge with re-bar drilled into the original foundation. I would be concerned about putting brick just on the 6" slab. I think you need a real foundation.

 

[KenB2920]

This is done all the time. Just keep in mind that the brick ledge needs to go to the same depth as a foundation. We backfit face brick onto a house that originally just had siding. We excavated down over 4 feet and poured the brickledge with re-bar drilled into the original foundation. I would be concerned about putting brick just on the 6" slab. I think you need a real foundation.

Ok, so that's good to know this is viable

What about price wise? Your thoughts ?(which way to go)

It seems the footing if done after the structure was up, would be 48l plus in depth and then brick on top

 

[CalG]

I'm not sure of all the things being offered here, but have you considered grade beam construction?

I've got two additions on the house using grade beams without difficulty, and that is here in frozen Vermont.

Might be something you could explore. U Mass did a study, the technique faired well.

 

[KenB2920]

I'm not sure of all the things being offered here, but have you considered grade beam construction? I've got two additions on the house using grade beams without difficulty, and that is here in frozen Vermont. Might be something you could explore. U Mass did a study, the technique faired well.

What is grade beem construction ?

Also, this is a new build not and addition to my home. Trust me, all help is welcome

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I would price a conventional wall with a full foundation. One of the reasons pole construction is cheaper is you don't have to dig a full foundation. If you have to dig one anyway it takes a lot of the shine off of pole construction. Similarly, another of the economies of pole construction is the savings on materials for the walls. If you have to do full walls anyway that benefit is lost too.

 

[CalG]

What is grade beem construction ?

Also, this is a new build not and addition to my home. Trust me, all help is welcome

For myself, a grade beam is a 2'X2' concrete "sill" placed on pilings in one case and a 3 inch minus filled trench in the other. In both cases , there is no concrete 'footing" below -8 " of grade.

I would do a search for more information, my own examples may not suit you. But one addition is over twenty years with out issue, and the other is turning ten years with no problems. ymmv.

Foundation troubles need two things*. moisture, and freezing temps. deny either, and you can build on grade.
(* load bearing soils aside)

 

[KenB2920]

Foundation troubles need two things*. moisture, and freezing temps. deny either, and you can build on grade. (* load bearing soils aside)

Ok, so explain further please. I have freezing temps and I guess moisture

How do I deny them? Serious, not being tough

 

[CalG]

dig "post holes" to below frost levels if the soil is "well drained", and put in a concrete "post" for the grade beam to sit on. Both tied together with re bar in the end. OR, dig the footing trench and provision for drainage, but instead of pouring or laying a masonry footing foundation, fill the trench with stone (stone does not hold water) lay the grade beam on that. It's an "Alaskan slab" with an isolated perimeter beam. ;-)