Kubota BH90 backhoe challenges

[CurlyDave]

1. I would do this by taking the 2' initial cut out of the center of the ditch. Then 6" on each side. This is not really going to increase the number of bucketfuls because the depth of each pass can be twice as much. What it does do is to even up the pull to each side for the machine.

2. Learn to lift the machine with the BH bucket and shift it to the side. Start slow and easy and practice this a bit to get the hang of it. I reposition my machine all the time this way and it works a whole lot better than trying to nail the stabilizers down. This is why you want the stabilizers to lift the wheels completely off the ground, and the tires not loaded. Proper use of a backhoe almost always requires lifting the machine and swinging it to the side. If the tires are loaded, you put too much force on the boom.

3. Where are you piling the spoils? They should all go on one side of the ditch and if there is a cross-slope it should be the high side.

4. My technique here would be to dig a section of trench 2' wide and the proper depth. Then break up both sides 6" wider and full depth leaving the spoils in the trench, and then remove the loosened earth, adding it to the spoil pile. Reposition and repeat.

 

[Code54]

No don't do this. It says not to in the BH90 owner's manual.

Page 6 of the owners manual - operating instructions
Ballast
"Important:
Do not add liquid ballast or any other weights to the front tires.
While BH90 backhoe is installed on the tractor, liquid ballast in the rear tires should be removed."

Another word of caution: do not leave you BH under a tree. (Ask me how I know)

Kind of unrealistic to expect operators to remove the rear liquid ballast every time they add/remove the hoe. I have owned 3 different ones over the years and always had the rears loaded. Plus all the ones I have used between jobs, friends, etc have always been loaded. I personally don't believe it is a big issue as the weight is on the ground if you are just using the stabilizers to contact the ground and not lift the tractor.
Just different ways to do it I guess.....
As for the tree - ouch, thats never good!

 

[Michael_C]

1. I would do this by taking the 2' initial cut out of the center of the ditch. Then 6" on each side. This is not really going to increase the number of bucketfuls because the depth of each pass can be twice as much. What it does do is to even up the pull to each side for the machine.

2. Learn to lift the machine with the BH bucket and shift it to the side. Start slow and easy and practice this a bit to get the hang of it. I reposition my machine all the time this way and it works a whole lot better than trying to nail the stabilizers down. This is why you want the stabilizers to lift the wheels completely off the ground, and the tires not loaded. Proper use of a backhoe almost always requires lifting the machine and swinging it to the side. If the tires are loaded, you put too much force on the boom.

3. Where are you piling the spoils? They should all go on one side of the ditch and if there is a cross-slope it should be the high side.

4. My technique here would be to dig a section of trench 2' wide and the proper depth. Then break up both sides 6" wider and full depth leaving the spoils in the trench, and then remove the loosened earth, adding it to the spoil pile. Reposition and repeat.

I use the boom to reposition the tractor (side to side), but find the repositioning the tractor that occurs when I take the 1' wide cut counter productive - I'll try your suggestion on taking the 2' pass from the center of the trench and see if the tractor stays put.
I've been having the loader bucket down, but not with the edge digging in, so I can use the boom to advance the tractor forward without having to get off the backhoe. So, if I can get away from having to dig the loader bucket's edge in and still keep the tractor from repositioning when I take the "cleanup cuts" that's my preference.
Thanks for the suggestion - this is the most promising approach - doubt I would have ever have thought of this!

In general, I like to put all the spoils to the right of the trench. There will be four 125' long trenches and will place the spoils on the other side for the last trench, on the left side. This will give more clear space in the middle, and easier back filling access.

This does bring up another minor question - how do you mark where you are going to dig trenches?
I have used marking paint, periodically, to identify the right edge of the trench. I've been relying on judgement (eyeballing), the left side of the trench. I am thinking of marking the left side as well, as my judgement seems to vary :{ at times, and I am running wider than need be at times. This isn't s terrible problem, but moving soil out for only what I need would save a lot of effort for the cost of another can of marking paste. My guess is someone who does this regularly can judge the width better than I can, but my experience level "is what it is" - and, using a little paint is better than running the tractor for the additional unnecessary hours.

Thanks again for the guidance.

 

[txdon]

Kind of unrealistic to expect operators to remove the rear liquid ballast overtime they add/remove the hoe. . . .

Agree, but with 4wd, balast in the tires has never been a issue. My Dad's tractor is 2wd and it is useless with the FEL and no liquid ballast.

 

[CurlyDave]

...This does bring up another minor question - how do you mark where you are going to dig trenches?
I have used marking paint, periodically, to identify the right edge of the trench. I've been relying on judgement (eyeballing), the left side of the trench. I am thinking of marking the left side as well, as my judgement seems to vary :{ at times, and I am running wider than need be at times. This isn't s terrible problem, but moving soil out for only what I need would save a lot of effort for the cost of another can of marking paste. My guess is someone who does this regularly can judge the width better than I can, but my experience level "is what it is" - and, using a little paint is better than running the tractor for the additional unnecessary hours...

Marking depends on the situation. For foundations and footers I mark with paint or wooden stakes every few feet. Sometimes stakes and string. For trenches, most operators will just guesstimate. Maybe a wooden stake at the edges every 12' or so. Trenches usually don't need the precision of a footer, especially if you are not near a property line. If I needed 3' wide and had a 2' bucket, I think I would use the width of the bucket as a gauge. If there are an odd number of teeth the center one is the center of the bucket. If an even number split the difference on the center two teeth. 1 and 1/2 buckets is 3 feet. It is a hole in the ground, not a rocket launch pad.

Why does the trench have to be 3' wide? Can a longer 2' trench substitute?

If you don't want to dig the edge of your loader bucket into the ground, keeping your loader full of material will increase its weight and add to stability.

 

[Michael_C]

Marking depends on the situation. For foundations and footers I mark with paint or wooden stakes every few feet. Sometimes stakes and string. For trenches, most operators will just guesstimate. Maybe a wooden stake at the edges every 12' or so. Trenches usually don't need the precision of a footer, especially if you are not near a property line. If I needed 3' wide and had a 2' bucket, I think I would use the width of the bucket as a gauge. If there are an odd number of teeth the center one is the center of the bucket. If an even number split the difference on the center two teeth. 1 and 1/2 buckets is 3 feet. It is a hole in the ground, not a rocket launch pad.

Why does the trench have to be 3' wide? Can a longer 2' trench substitute?

If you don't want to dig the edge of your loader bucket into the ground, keeping your loader full of material will increase its weight and add to stability.

The project is for installation of geothermal loops which come in 3' diameter coils (slinky fashion). It's not just getting from point A to point B. It needs to be 3' wide for the calculated heat transfer to the earth.

Thanks for the thought on loading the FEL bucket - Once the ground dries out some, I'll give it a try.