ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
Take the bad one with you to the auto parts store to be sure the connector will fit. Going to a higher amp rating (e.g. 40 or 50) is fine and may make the part last longer. But don't go to a lower amp rating (lower than 30). The SS pull coil draws 26 amp, as I recall. The stock relay 30/20 rating means the normally-open contacts are rated for 30 amp; those are the ones that feed the SS. The normally-closed contacts (not used in this case) are rated for 20 amps.
There are three of these relays. The two identical ones power the starter solenoid and the SS. The odd one (with higher 60 amp rating) feeds the glow plugs. For some unknown reason, at least one other owner who switched connectors reported that the relay that wouldn't pull the SS still worked fine for the starter. But that may not last. If it were me, I'd replace a marginal or unreliable relay while I'm thinking about it.
ADDED: This being the second such report (swapping connectors fixed no-crank or no SS retract) I wonder if the problem could be high resistance at the connector (from dirt, grease, corrosion, etc.) that got polished by removing and reconnecting the connectors?
There are three of these relays. The two identical ones power the starter solenoid and the SS. The odd one (with higher 60 amp rating) feeds the glow plugs. For some unknown reason, at least one other owner who switched connectors reported that the relay that wouldn't pull the SS still worked fine for the starter. But that may not last. If it were me, I'd replace a marginal or unreliable relay while I'm thinking about it.
ADDED: This being the second such report (swapping connectors fixed no-crank or no SS retract) I wonder if the problem could be high resistance at the connector (from dirt, grease, corrosion, etc.) that got polished by removing and reconnecting the connectors?
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