shank102
New member
Depending on where your at in northern TN, Wells tractor in greenville has the 48" W.R. Long Loader Open Bottom Grapple 2 for Compact Tractors in stock that you can check out. I think it weighs about 350lb.
Depending on where your at in northern TN, Wells tractor in greenville has the 48" W.R. Long Loader Open Bottom Grapple 2 for Compact Tractors in stock that you can check out. I think it weighs about 350lb.
WR Long is one of the granddaddy grapple companies for CUTs. Very high quality but expensive as they don't sell direct so dealer markup cuts into value. They also don't innovate the way EA does.Depending on where your at in northern TN, Wells tractor in greenville has the 48" W.R. Long Loader Open Bottom Grapple 2 for Compact Tractors in stock that you can check out. I think it weighs about 350lb.
Here is my 50 inch EA single lid. It weighs about 275 lbs. Works for me. You can see how I control the grapple lid with the remote lever on my tractor is conveniently located just forward of the loader joystick. Also don't forget if you do run your grapple from a rear remote you will need to have quick disconnects in the middle of your tractor where the loader quick connects are so that you can take your loader off easily without taking off the tye-wraps on your loader arms of your new run of hydraulic hoses.
I agree with most everything James says except for the need to have a set of quick connectors in the middle of the tractor. That is exactly what I had on my CK20. In three years I used them precisely zero times. Most of us don't remove the FEL much at all. So long as you secure the hoses with zip ties under the tractor, it takes only two minutes to release them and perhaps five more to replace them if you ever do remove the FEL. It almost doubles the hose cost to put the split system in and I just found it unnecessary.
I will admit I have only taken the loader off a couple of times since putting in the quick connects on the middle, but It still gives you the option. I hate to cut tye-wraps and reroute hoses. And mainly I mention it because I would not want some poor fella to go "dope! (channelling Homer Simpson)" Because the thought of removing the loader did not occur to him.
So of course, do what suits you best. And if that is a simple diverter up on the loader frame, and using the curl/dump function of your loader joystick instead of a rear remote which you may not have, well that is fine too.
Or go full out and set up the 3rd function. It is all whatever how you want to roll.
I already have an extra rear remote, so there is no plan to add cost to this. Not sure if I will make a connection in the middle or not, most likely no at the beginning, but later on when funds are available I will.
Use a garden hose to measure the length of hydraulic hose you need to go from rear remote under operator station up FEL post and down to torque tube. Add a foot or so and make gentle turns. Order 3/8" hoses (more flexible and plenty of flow for grapple) and get 90 degree adapters for the rear so you don't need a lot of vulnerable hose looping back. 1/2" quick connects are kinda standard so you'll need step up adapters. You'll need 1/2" for the rear with step up too. It sounds complicated but is actually pretty easy. A local hydraulic shop can make it up in half an hour while you wait but if you order all parts from Surplus Supply you'll save about 50%. .I already have an extra rear remote, so there is no plan to add cost to this. Not sure if I will make a connection in the middle or not, most likely no at the beginning, but later on when funds are available I will.