Kubota L2501 or L3301

[TripleR]

I own a 2501DT but sometjing you REALLY want to consider is the type of pto that comes on the gear 2501 vs the hst 2501 and all the other L's. With the gear model your pto only engages when you release the clutch and it'll stop power when you push the clutch. This is NOT an ideal setup if you're doing much mowing, in my opinion at least. It doesn't bother me because I rarely rarely ever mow with this tractor, I got it for other tasks. So if you don't like what I just mentioned about the pto setup, maybe take a look at an hst model 2501 or re-think that 3301. The 3301 also gets you a newer style dash and gauges and the throttle is different from the 2501. The 2501 basically uses the dash and throttle lever from the previous L's.

I agree completely, I pointed this out to another new buyer a couple of days ago.

TractorData.com - Power Take-Off

Understanding Tractor Transmissions - YouTube

 

[jeff9366]

Im not sure what the model numbers are of the implements. Im sure its the lower end ones. I may try to negotiate for the HST version and upgraded cutter and no trailer.

IN FLORIDA Kubota is offering its dealers some significant promotional money when they sell a new Kubota tractor combined with any two Kubota branded or Land Pride branded implements. That is likely how your package deal is originating.

Kubota is in the process of purchasing Land Pride.

 

[RollingsFarms]

I agree completely, I pointed this out to another new buyer a couple of days ago. TractorData.com - Power Take-Off Understanding Tractor Transmissions - YouTube

I was actually quite surprised when I read that on Kubota's website when I was shopping. Had this been my "do it all tractor" that would have been a no-go for me. I use it for box blading a long dirt road, loader work every now and then, and landscape rake. I did notice none of the other gear L's had this type of pto and figured that's how they kept the price down on the 2501 DT.

 

[Clay45]

I supposed its because I operate a 1989 model tractor but I don't have a problem with it. I have a PTO lever that disengages the PTO for when I'm not using it and a shroud around it to help me steer my hands away from it while in the seat. When I am using it (rototiller) I keep away from it. When I need to stop and back up I have to press in the clutch and come to a stop to shift gears so the tiller does the same. I have to lift the tiller in order to back up and yes it spins up while I do so there is some risk then but I'm turned around and back in forward or I'm turning the PTO off and heading to the shed. You do need to use your head but its a good reliable system. Besides, I like to know that when I push in the clutch everything stops.

 

[TripleR]

I supposed its because I operate a 1989 model tractor but I don't have a problem with it. I have a PTO lever that disengages the PTO for when I'm not using it and a shroud around it to help me steer my hands away from it while in the seat. When I am using it (rototiller) I keep away from it. When I need to stop and back up I have to press in the clutch and come to a stop to shift gears so the tiller does the same. I have to lift the tiller in order to back up and yes it spins up while I do so there is some risk then but I'm turned around and back in forward or I'm turning the PTO off and heading to the shed. You do need to use your head but its a good reliable system. Besides, I like to know that when I push in the clutch everything stops.

Before I tried anything else, I didn't either, use to spend 12 hours a day or more on one.

You can get that with a live continuous running PTO, so you have the choice of pushing the clutch part way to change gears and leave the PTO running or press it all the way and shut everything down. You can do the same thing on many of the HST Kubotas that have clutches, my L5740 does though I don't use it.

I use to have no objection to a lot of things, but now that I've tried them sure won't go back and don't recommend them to others; different strokes.

 

[kdo]

So I talked to the dealer again today. I can upgrade the 2501 to the HST model and not get the trailer for $18400 out the door. I don't really need the trailer. That's the 2501 with FEL, cutter RCR1260 and box blade BB1260. What do you guys think?

 

[jeff9366]

The LA525FL Loader has a lift capacity of 1,490 pounds. ((Unclear if this includes the bucket, probably 220 pounds, so with bucket actual load lift capacity of 1,270 pounds?))

I think the Land Pride BB1260/346 pounds @ 69 pounds per foot of width is not going to be very effective at cutting, nor as a counterbalance to your loaded FEL. (Tractor rule of thumb for Box Blades: Effective begins at 100 pounds per foot of width.) You have superior tractor weight in the L2501 over the Kubota BX and B series; take advantage of it.

I think the Land Pride BB1560/436 pounds/ 87 pounds per foot, will make you happier on both accounts for small change more.

Heavier weight per foot would be better yet, but with 25-hp I expect BB1560 will be about all you can fill and then pull. HST, with max torque at starting, will be excellent for overcoming full Box Blade inertia. Much better than gear.

A $249 'HydrauLink' makes operating a Box Blade easier. It also acts as a shock absorber between your implements, the ground and your light tractor. I was mowing today, using the HydrauLink in place of the Kubota Top Link on my L3560. I used HydrauLink first with my Kubota B3300SU, predecessor to the L3501. I am a fan.

LINKS (2): HydrauLink - YouTube

hydraulink | eBay

 

[drobinson]

I recently bought an L2501HST with a 20 foot trailer, rotary cutter, box blade, third function valve and grapple. Originally I was looking at larger tractors L3301, L3901 and even larger. Reality set in when I started adding up the implements I needed and I think I made a good choice. I have 6 acres mostly woods that I want to selectively clear out and put up fencing. We also have a much larger property about 70 miles away. This tractor will spend 90% of its life here, and on the larger tract will be mostly used for maintaining roads and debris pick up. If I chose the larger L tractors it would have been much more expensive and I would have trouble towing anything larger. I did not want to deal with any possible DPF issues and decided I preferred reliability above all else. I am still in the break in period with the L2501 and have not worked it too hard, but it has happily complied with everything I have asked of it.

 

[SteveM70]

I'm going to take a stab at this and say an L series tractor with low horsepower for an L series tractor would be better off geared but considering your needs and location I say go for it.

BTW, I think you've been offered a fair deal and if you really don't need the trailer you may be better off without it. Nothing like the sight of a shiny new tractor to get friends and neighbors wondering what kind of cheap/free work you could do for them!

 

[Carl_NH]

The LA525FL Loader has a lift capacity of 1,490 pounds. ((Unclear if this includes the bucket, probably 220 pounds, so with bucket actual load lift capacity of 1,270 pounds?))

A $249 'HydrauLink' makes operating a Box Blade easier. I used HydrauLink first with my Kubota B3300SU, predecessor to the L3501. I am a fan.

nkw=hydraulink&clk_rvr_id=1045705286614&adpos=1o3&treatment_id=7&crlp=106209679709_857&MT_ID=69&device=c&rlsatarget=kwd-164911153&keyword=hydraulink&geo_id=10232&poi=&crdt=0&ul_noapp=true]hydraulink | eBay[/url]

Kubota designates their loaders by KG lift with a bucket so an LA525 x 2.2 = 1155 Lbs.

That Hydralink does look interesting and a pretty slick idea too!