Rotella T6 5W-40W for use from summer to winter???

[atsah]

At 50 hours I used Mobil 1 5-40 full synthetic and will from now on.. It's the best of both worlds IMO..

 

[Midniteoyl]

There are Rotella T6 and Mobil 0W-40 oils for sale at Walmart.. I would use a 0W-40 over a 5W-40 for much better starting and better start up oil protection.

 

[holeycow]

At least 2 of us get it.

 

[Midniteoyl]

At least 2 of us get it.

Ya, I think most people just arent used to the way synthetic oils work yet in that they start with a base oil that is at the higher number, and not the lower number like dino oil does. No need to use a 'heavier' cold weight to provide protection when warm. With synthetic, the lower the cold weight, the better off you are.. as long as the hot weight is still correct. If they would make a -10W-40 , I would switch to that.

 

[newbury]

Folks:

I am changing fluids on a new-to-me CK 30 (415) hours. I anticipate that we will not put more than 100 hours on the tractor before next summer, so the engine oil will be in there from summer through winter.

We live in central Vermont where the temperature range will be from the 80's (now) to below zero in the winter. The tractor will live in an unheated outdoor shed. It will be used for moving firewood on pallets, loader and rototiller work prepping garden, plowing snow.

I do not know what oil was used in the tractor engine by the previous owner who lived in southern New Hampshire.

Does it make sense to use Rotella T6 5W-40W to cover the temperature extremes?

Thanks,

DOC

First of all plan for the extremes and you will be ok for the averages. The record low for Wallingford is 36 degrees F BELOW 0. That's close to where Celsius meets Fahrenheit. That's 5 degrees warmer than what was my neck of the woods, Bakersfield, VT but still cold. Try and find some 0-40.

Also make sure you have a good hydraulic fluid, it's fairly useless to have the engine running but no PTO, 3pt or FEL.

Make sure you have a good block heater that works and make sure your fuel is winter blend. Summer #2 doesn't flow at 40 below.

Thanks folks......that's what I thought. I appreciate the collective wisdom of the group. It really helps "newbies" like me.

I'm sure I will have other questions in the future.

DOC

Keep coming back, I'm down in VA with 100 degree days, just reading and remembering about 40 below has a cooling effect.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Most critical is to be sure it is a "Cx" rated oil for Diesel engines. Some of the "Sx" oils for gasoline engines actually lubricate better but they won't handle the soot properly. Some oils are both C and S rated, that's OK.

Engine starting is the most critical phase for engine wear, especially for engines that sit un-run for long periods. You really need an oil that will stick to the metal and also flow quickly as soon as the oil pump turns. This is where synthetics excel. The operating temp of a healthy engine is pretty-much the same in any climate (hot or cold) so 30 or 40 weight will be fine after the engine is at operating temp. But a low (0W, 5W, 10W) cold viscosity is the key to cold-start lubrication (along with a block heater in really cold areas).

As a bit of trivia, the Russians (who have much Diesel experience in very cold areas) use oil pre-heaters and electric oil circulating pumps in tactical vehicles (like tanks) before attempting engine starts in really cold conditions.

 

[Patches]

Many engine rebuilders (gas or diesel) recommend Rotella in any of it's formulations due to it's additive package reducing wear factor on cam shafts, main and rod bearings etc.

 

[3930dave]

Even with synthetic, a block heater in the dead of a VT class winter is not a bad idea. Belt+suspenders.

While I have bought plenty of Rotella, I'd also be comfortable using any properly rated 5W40 Cx product from Mobil, Delo, Schaeffers, or Amsoil. Good choice, summer and winter.

Rgds, D.