My panel location is going to complicate comparison to systems more optimally placed. The front of the building is "soft" shade (i.e. no hard edges) from surrounding trees most of the time, even on sunny days. That was one reason for going with the 100w panel, to try to compensate for that situation. From what I have read, "soft" shade tends to reduce current more so than voltage, "hard" shade (like an object directly blocking the light) drops voltage as well as current.
Another factor is the battery in use; I am using a RV/Marine deep cycle, rated at 105 AH @ 20 hours and 635 CCA. It has some age on it & at one point, a while back, a fair portion of the plates were above electrolyte after sitting with a battery tender for an extended time & the level brought back up with distilled water.
On the plus side, the battery is getting charged, but not very quickly. After several days, the controller indicator still stays on "normal charge", I have yet to see it get to a "float" charge condition. Morning (just after sun up) battery voltage has been increasing over time, the first morning after install it was showing 12.6, a few days later it is showing 13.1 as a morning voltage. (These are numbers while connected to the controller, not true "resting" battery values.) Typically the only draw on the battery has been the two 10w LED motion floods that stay on all the time, with only very short periods of the internal lights (mostly just during some testing).
The first day+night period after the meters were installed, it looks like 19 watt hours were delivered & consumption was too low to record. I don't know if it is the shade situation, or maybe that the battery is charged to the point the current is getting tapered off. Possibly a combination of both.
I swapped meters between shunts to see if I had a mismatch (meter/shunt), but got the same (reasonable) watts value for interior light consumption from both, so it looks like they are properly paired. (Sidenote: Shunts for these meters supply 0.75 mv at full scale. A meter built for a 50A shunt would read low by 50% if used with a 100A shunt). I zeroed out the watt/hour totals on both after the switch.
I haven't talked to the Renogy folks yet to see if my numbers are reasonable, but will probably do so when I have accumulated a bit more information.
Nick