Hydraulic top link failure

[comancheflight]

Replaced both washers and tightened it up...it leaked so I tightened more and it leaked even more..duh, replaced them again and just snugged it down. No leak.
All is good and good thing I got 6 washers.

 

[ritcheyvs]

...On the other hand, you can fully anneal them with a torch (heat to red hot, let cool), cleanup any fire-scale or irregularities that would interfere with the seal, and reuse them just like new (though perhaps a little thinner)...

What Dave said. For clarity, when you anneal copper you allow it to cool slowly; you don't quench it like steel.

 

[comancheflight]

Actually you can quench in water. Copper can be cooled quickly, in water, or slowly. Copper is non ferrous.
Ferrous metals such as steel has to be cooled slowly.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Actually you can quench in water. Copper can be cooled quickly, in water, or slowly. Copper is non ferrous.
Ferrous metals such as steel has to be cooled slowly.

You are right. I had a brain fart. I knew you anneal copper the opposite from steel but I remembered it backwards.

 

[N2DFire]

The banjo fitting is probably BSP British Straight Pipe. I have run into those once or twice. Sometimes it uses a copper sealing washer. Other times it uses a seal that looks like a copper washer except it has a thin rubber ring on the inside. Using the wrong one can make it leak. Don't ask me how I figured that out.

Discounthydraulichose.com has the copper sealing washers in BSP and metric sizes.
Surpluscenter.com has the composite copper-rubber seals in inch sizes.

An option to consider, as already mentioned, would be to get adapter fittings that take you from BSP to JIC and then not deal with the banjo fitting.

Just a cautionary note - not all banjo style fittings are BSP.
I was doing the 3rd function on our CK35 and needed to replace the single hard line from the loader valve to the rear 3PT which uses banjo style fittings (bolts) on each end of a 1/2" hard line.

Working from similar advice that these were BSP, I ordered 2 or 3 different incorrect sets of fittings online before I finally gave up, pulled the bolt and took it in to a local hydraulic shop and let them measure it (I was trying to limit the down time on the tractor so Dad would be able to use it during the day).

Turns out it was a standard metric thread (which is what I had assumed it was before I started asking around). As a side note - Discount Hydraulic is super easy / nice to deal with on returns. LOL

My Advice should comancheflight decide to replace them in the future would be to pull the bolt part, take it to a local shop, and have them measure it.

Sometimes the little extra premium you pay for local business is worth it for the savings in time and trouble of getting the right thing online.