$300+ error... any thoughts?

   / $300+ error... any thoughts? #21  
I would take some 7018 at 125 amps to it and give it a go. Nothing to lose but a little time, and if it failed, so what? Bevel it good and just keep putting in the passes.

That's what I'd do first.
 
   / $300+ error... any thoughts? #22  
I've seen several broken tractor drawbars repaired by welding.
 
   / $300+ error... any thoughts? #23  
It did not look that thick in the picture.

I wouldn't mess around. But I would go to a tractor wrecker before JD. Nothing about my 770 drawbar was off the shelf. Obviously metric. Yours probably not.
 
   / $300+ error... any thoughts?
  • Thread Starter
#24  
It did not look that thick in the picture.

I wouldn't mess around. But I would go to a tractor wrecker before JD. Nothing about my 770 drawbar was off the shelf. Obviously metric. Yours probably not.

I measured it... it is 1 1/4" thick

Dimensions are 2.5 x 1.25 x 22.75"

It does not swing, the connection to the tractor is solid 'cast' piece which allows for center, right, or left placement. But the bar must be removed then reinserted in a different 'slot'.

I'm going to take it to a local welder, and see what they think. And I will keep looking for a more reasonable replacement. At least I will have one 'on hand' should the weld break on this one.

Nothing at the local TSC. I don't know dimensions for other bars... there are a couple on eBay, but dimensions are not provided, just what tractor it came from. I haven't been able to deduce the bar size ie compatability of a JD 790 bar which is available for about $60. Anyone know how to find the draw bar dimensions from a tractor model?

Used Rear Draw Bar For John Deere 79 | eBay.
 
   / $300+ error... any thoughts? #25  
The 770/790 is a much narrower bar. No one parting out a 5000 series?
 
   / $300+ error... any thoughts? #26  
Friend of mine did the same to his Ford 4600 drawbar while using a manure spreader. He V'd it out, heated it to like 400 degrees, welded it with 7018 on AC Tombstone, then post heated it, then buried it in sand for slow cool down. It was still on the tractor like 10 years later when he traded it in. He was a weldor in the local steel mill.
 
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   / $300+ error... any thoughts? #27  
Bruce, I certainly agree with the thought of swinging clevis conversion. Do you know of any 'options' which would allow a solid 'vertical hole hitch' to be converted into a swinging clevis hitch? I would have thought there would be something I could purchase that would simply bolt into the solid hitch, therein adding the 'swing' between the blade and tractor, but I don't see anything similar. I don't know that a 'shackle' between would work, but then again, I don't know that it wouldn't.

My drawbar is also 1 1/4" thick. I made a clevis hitch out of sandwiched 1/2" plate welded together and drilled.

P1140469.JPG

P1140491.JPG

gg
 
   / $300+ error... any thoughts? #28  
It's about 1 1/2" thick. I haven't measured it, but seemed pretty 'normal' for my expectations

Yeah, and IT's drawbar definitely isn't twice as thick. Don't think he studied the pic before that statement.

Do you use the hole where it's broken??
 
   / $300+ error... any thoughts? #29  
The drawbar is a special high strength steel,,, you can not weld it. (BTDT)<snip>

Devices made with special steels are often welded, with an appropriate rod and appropriate technique. Most rod manufacturers make a special purpose "Maintenance" rod that is versatile but expensive. A good local welding shop likely has the rod, knows the technique, and probably has some experience with the application. Expect to pay for their expertise.

Yeah, I welded a blade holder on my JD 10' brush cutter cause I didn't want to pay $600. That was 2 years ago. No problem. That's why I asked about using the hole where it's broken. If it's not used, I'd weld it.
 

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