dickfoster
Elite Member
I would take some 7018 at 125 amps to it and give it a go. Nothing to lose but a little time, and if it failed, so what? Bevel it good and just keep putting in the passes.
That's what I'd do first.
I would take some 7018 at 125 amps to it and give it a go. Nothing to lose but a little time, and if it failed, so what? Bevel it good and just keep putting in the passes.
It did not look that thick in the picture.
I wouldn't mess around. But I would go to a tractor wrecker before JD. Nothing about my 770 drawbar was off the shelf. Obviously metric. Yours probably not.
Bruce, I certainly agree with the thought of swinging clevis conversion. Do you know of any 'options' which would allow a solid 'vertical hole hitch' to be converted into a swinging clevis hitch? I would have thought there would be something I could purchase that would simply bolt into the solid hitch, therein adding the 'swing' between the blade and tractor, but I don't see anything similar. I don't know that a 'shackle' between would work, but then again, I don't know that it wouldn't.
It's about 1 1/2" thick. I haven't measured it, but seemed pretty 'normal' for my expectations
The drawbar is a special high strength steel,,, you can not weld it. (BTDT)<snip>
Devices made with special steels are often welded, with an appropriate rod and appropriate technique. Most rod manufacturers make a special purpose "Maintenance" rod that is versatile but expensive. A good local welding shop likely has the rod, knows the technique, and probably has some experience with the application. Expect to pay for their expertise.
Yeah, I welded a blade holder on my JD 10' brush cutter cause I didn't want to pay $600. That was 2 years ago. No problem. That's why I asked about using the hole where it's broken. If it's not used, I'd weld it.