OP
gladehound
Veteran Member
My guess is the width of the lower link connection didn't work out with where the pins need to be for SSQA.
Suggestions for rear 3pt pallet / log forks
- Thread starter gladehound
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My guess is the width of the lower link connection didn't work out with where the pins need to be for SSQA.
OP
gladehound
Veteran Member
I wonder... It was certainly true with my other tractor. But you could see that from the specs (840 full lift loader at pins vs 1300 for the 3 pt 24" back). So there really was no comparison.
But the newer tractor has 3727 breakout at the pins (2,761 full lift) compared to 3,000 at the eyes and 2425 24" back on the 3pt. If the center of the log is 3 ft. past the pins the loader should be able to lift ~2600 off the ground. At 3 ft past the eyes the 3pt should lift 2,137.5 lbs. So I won't be surprised if the 3pt can't lift what the loader can lift. The loader is really strong for this size tractor.... Last week I lifted a log then got off the seat to do something and after I got off the seat I saw the log lowering it's way back to the ground. I thought my hydraulics were leaking at first, then I looked back and saw the back end slowing lifting into the air. And this was with 1,500 extra pounds on the rear of the tractor. So it's a strong loader for the size of the tractor.
But as you said, the rear is the business end of the tractor and that's where I want the weight. My loader may be able to lift a certain amount, but I really can't drive with that amount. too tippy. Plus I cringe at having those forces on the front axle when moving (dynamic load with bumps).
What I learned with my little tractor is that a 3pt can lift anything as long as the front will stay down. Even if you max the hydraulics, just lift the front of the tractor with the loader while lifting the 3pt; put the front back down and your 3pt is up. Or just run a come along from the top of the cage to the forks
Now I'm thinking what would be really cool back there is a rake style grapple. Back up to the logs, clamp, lift, go!
TheMan419
Veteran Member
On my boomer the FEL can lift ~1000 lbs. The 3pt is more like 1500 lbs, so much more.... but of course the 3 point cannot lift HIGH like the loader can. It just depends on what you need to do with the load once you lift it. As for the FEL being too tippy it all depends on the counter balance you have too.
Moving rocks that are approaching the lift capacity of my bucket not nearly as scary if I have the rotary mower or some other heavy implement on the back.
Moving rocks that are approaching the lift capacity of my bucket not nearly as scary if I have the rotary mower or some other heavy implement on the back.
George2615
Super Member
Most tractor do have greater lift on the 3 pt. than the loader. My XR3037HC is one exception as are a few other LS models. My loader lift is 2182# at the pivot pin and the 3 pt. is 1808# but does not specify at what point. Most tractors specify 3 pt. lift @ 24" or similar where the LS site does not. On the XR4040 and 4046 the 3 pt. has more lift.
OP
gladehound
Veteran Member
Those rating are close and can't say which is actually higher not knowing if your 3pt rating is at the eyes or at 24" behind the eyes. Have you used both ends near the limit enough to know which and can lift more in real life?
OP
gladehound
Veteran Member
totally agree about needing enough weight on the back. I already had 1500 pounds of extra rear weight when it came off the ground. If I added an extra 3000 pounds total it would have been OK to drive. But I still would be killing that front axle with about ~9,000 pound load on it! I wish I knew the actual max load rating for the front axle but I can't find it anywhere.
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George2615
Super Member
The most known weight I've had on the 3 pt. is 1538#. The highest known weight lifted with the loader is 1995#. I have a 2000# digital scale to get those readings.
I have maxed out the loader (using forks) trying to lift a block of steel reinforced concrete about 40"x40"'x36" but the weight was unknown. The loader lifted it about 2" then the relief stopped it. I didn't have a way to try lifting it with the 3 pt. (maybe I need to order a 3 pt. to quick attach adapter to use my forks on the back) and didn't have the scale with me to measure.
OP
gladehound
Veteran Member
Love your grapple forks George? Is that an add a grapple like "the thumb" or did they come like that?
George2615
Super Member
It is called The Thumb by Greensmachines. I bought the thumb with 2 base plates and modified my forks and bucket so I can use it on either. (I have a thread on the build but couldn't find it to provide a link) I don't have a use for a full grapple but did for a hydraulic thumb which is less than half the price of a full grapple.
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Fallon
Super Member
A quick look at it shows a brace below the toplink pin. That would mean you couldn't get the QH top hook under it to hook up. My snow blower was like that. I welded a brace on top, then cut off the brace below the pin.
As for why... probably because of lack of proper engineering. That's one of the drawbacks to cheap gear (Chinese made or not) they have to cut corners to make the price point, engineering & materials are usually corners that get cut. Although at $300 or so I'd be inclined to buy it & spend a few hours fixing it rather than paying $1k for one (what I saw looking for em a year ago) that was engineered right. I enjoy tinkering & $700 buys a lot of shop time & tools for me to tinker with.
