What makes more sense...driving a long paid for old truck, or making huge payments??

[two_bit_score]

Vehicles are never investments. Everything depreciates. New stuff depreciates faster.

I've done it both ways - new and used. Depends on the vehicle and how it was cared for by the prior owner(s) if a used one is going to be dependable or a money pit. Never regretted a new vehicle I bought.

It wouldn't make sense to buy a new vehicle and find out you hate it and it's a big mistake for you to keep it 15 years just to avoid the loss on trading. But, if you normally keep a vehicle a long time then buying new can be fine.

Two 'rules':
1) There is one thing guaranteed to keep a working man poor. A new car.

2) Every day you drive a paid for car you are making money.

TBS

being from the southwest I can see your perspective as you can reasonably expect a vehicle to last 20 years or more. The reality here is that 10 years is all you can expect before corrosion kills them. Therefore pushing the used market prices up to basically a new vehicle. A pickup here under $10K is absolutely finished.

I really can't see where we differ. Im not saying everyone should drive a vehicle for 20 years. If it's rusted out in 10 then 10 may be the economic life of it. But if you trade it every two years then you may be giving up a lot of time you could be driving a paid for truck - 8 years. That's an individual choice though that every individual makes. You are right that the region where the vehicle was predominately operated in makes a huge difference in it's economic life. So does the way it was used by the original and subsequent owners.

I've seen people go through trucks like I couldn't believe. You would never want a truck some of these guys have owned. I do some work for a couple companies that wholesale a lot of used vehicles in Texas. They say the 'rust belt' is a major source of customers.

TBS

 

[MH8675309]

Trucks are expensive right now. If youve got a good runner thats paid for keep driving it til trucks get a little more affordable

 

[ovrszd]

Trucks are expensive right now. If youve got a good runner thats paid for keep driving it til trucks get a little more affordable

Or sell it while the market is hot and take advantage of the rebate deals on a new one....... Sorry, I couldn't help it.......

 

[MossRoad]

... My 03 needs new brakes for the first time at 215,000 miles, cost will be about a $1,000, new pads, rotors, and emergency brake. ...

That seems awfully expensive....

 

[aczlan]

That seems awfully expensive....

I agree I just did pads and rotors on all four corners of it the wife's 2005 Yukon and I think it was around three or four hundred for parts. Granted that was on Amazon, it would probably 1/3 more if you were buying OEM from a parts store. That was also with EBC green stuff pads so that added a little bit more than stock pads would have.

Aaron Z

 

[MossRoad]

I've replaced several sets of rotors and pads on our 2000 Impala and my 93 Suburban. Got parts from AutoZone. I'm trying to remember how much they were, but something like $10 for pads and $35 for rotor comes to mind on both. Its been a while. I'll check....

Today, at AutoZone, for 1993 Suburban K1500:
Front brake pads only (both sides) $19.99.
Rotors are $35.00 each.

So I could do a front brake job for $90.00 in parts.

If I did it right and replaced the rubber stuff and O rings, that kit with pads is $48.00
So doing it right, it would be $118.00 for the front brakes.

Heck, I could replace the front calipers for $20 a piece.

So, $158 in parts for rotors, pads, rubber stuff and calipers.

Rears are more expensive. $51 for each drum, so $110.
Rear shoes $20.00 for all.
All new springs and such, $10.00
Rear cylinders are $11 each.

So about $155 for the rears complete.

So, $118 fronts plus $155 rears = $273 in parts.

Anyhow, its the labor and parts markup that'll kill you.

 

[Cat_Driver]

I was at Disneyworld a few years back taking the airport shuttle to the airport. It was an American van, and I say behind the driver. I took a look at the mileage and it was reading 650K. I asked the drive how the heck are you getting that many miles out of this vehicle and was it because it was a Ford van. He told me all their vans have 650K plus miles on them, Ford, Chevy, Dodge. I was forced to ask what's the secret to getting so many miles out of these rigs. His answer was simple - just keep the vehicle maintained, old change often etc.
That right there told me there is no "one brand" that is any better than any other brand. All have good and bad vehicles.
I've had good mechanically sound vehicles fall apart from the inside, whereas the truck was sound and the systems were all perfect. The problem is door handles, window cranks, seat covers, dash boards, gauges and stated failing and the parts were impossible to get. The truck ran like a Swiss watch, but everything else was sun rotten, or age destroyed.
Then there's that one service trip where the repairs end up being more than the vehicle is worth, so you turn the keys over to the junk yard.
I was looking at a new Yukon the other day, and for those of you like me that don't get out that much - they had the guts to ask 70K for it.Shows how old I'm getting. My parents bought a new house in the 60's for 24K, I bought my first house in the 80's for 40K, and today you can buy a house in parts of Tucson Arizona for less than 70K.

 

[aczlan]

I've replaced several sets of rotors and pads on our 2000 Impala and my 93 Suburban. Got parts from AutoZone. I'm trying to remember how much they were, but something like $10 for pads and $35 for rotor comes to mind on both. Its been a while. I'll check....

Today, at AutoZone, for 1993 Suburban K1500:
Front brake pads only (both sides) $19.99.
Rotors are $35.00 each.

So I could do a front brake job for $90.00 in parts.

If I did it right and replaced the rubber stuff and O rings, that kit with pads is $48.00
So doing it right, it would be $118.00 for the front brakes.

Heck, I could replace the front calipers for $20 a piece.

So, $158 in parts for rotors, pads, rubber stuff and calipers.

Rears are more expensive. $51 for each drum, so $110.
Rear shoes $20.00 for all.
All new springs and such, $10.00
Rear cylinders are $11 each.

So about $155 for the rears complete.

So, $118 fronts plus $155 rears = $273 in parts.

Anyhow, its the labor and parts markup that'll kill you.

Yep, I looked it up and it was $300 in parts to do brakes with AC-Delco rotors and EBC Greenstuff pads. Going with aftermarket (or AC-Delco pads) would have been a good bit cheaper, but last time I did that, I got a rotor that was warped out of the box and I thought it needed brakes that stopped it better...

Aaron Z

 

[Shaneard]

My 03 needs new brakes for the first time at 215,000 miles, cost will be about a $1,000, new pads, rotors, and emergency brake.

I put 4 new rotors, new pads, new e-brake shoes and 2 new rear axle seals on our 2003 Duramax last year and parts were only a tad over $400.00 from the local auto parts store. I did mine with a floor jack and a piece of cardboard in my yard. It'd be quicker with a lift, lol.

 

[jenkinsph]

My thoughts on pick up trucks are that you figure out what works the best for you (set up/config) then buy it and drive it for a long time. Vehicles are an expense not an investment imo. I try to keep them maintained and run them as long as I can.