3-Point Hitch Jerky 3 pt hitch movement with lifting post hole digger on DK40SE cab

spindlewood · May 22, 2014

I have the identical problem that is in this post here on a DK40SE Cab. The OP never got back to update on the fix, if there ever was one (I promise to post back once it is fixed!).

Anyway, tractor arrived a week or so ago from the dealer, and I finally took off the backhoe and put on the Post Hole Digger. Everything works fine going down and I can go down slowly. When not in motion, the PHD does not move at all. However, lifting the PHD is very jerky. No matter how little of an increment is used for the lift, every movement of the lever is met with a sudden jerk of the PTO.

Hydro fluid level is fine. Draft control is all the way forward. The PHD frame is mounted to the top hole in the top link mount. I am sure that with nothing attached to the PTO, it lowered fine - otherwise the dealer would have noticed and I believe I observed him lowering it as well.

Does anyone know if this is fixed with an MLS adjustment? Coyote Machine said that the MLS only affects 3PH lowering speed, NOT raise speed/condition. If I KNEW the MLS adjustment would fix the problem, it would be worth the hassle. Don't want to take it apart and find out it didn't fix the problem.

Tomorrow, I will play with changing the Draft lever a tad to see it it makes any difference. Will also change the drop speed and test. I don't want to remove the PHD yet and test with empty 3 pt hitch as it was a fair amount of wrestling to get it hooked up in the first place and I'm only 1/4 done with the job.

Any other suggestions?

rjwerth · May 22, 2014

Make sure the top link pin is in the correct position that completely bypasses the Draft control. I'd tell you which position that was, but I'm nowhere near my tractor at the moment.

k0ua · May 22, 2014

The PHD frame is mounted to the top hole in the top link mount.

He has it in the top hole now so the draft control will have no effect.

Do you have a workshop manual? If so you could go thru the adjustment procedure of the MLS valve. I am not talking about turning the knob under the seat but the actual MLS valve adjustment procedure as outlined in the workshop manual.. If not, best call the dealer and let them go thru it.

spindlewood · May 23, 2014

I've adjusted the draft lever and change the dial for drop speed and neither had a positive effect. I've left it with the dealer to find Kioti's recommendation before I (or he) adjusts the MLS.

Amvcane · Feb 9, 2017

Spindlewood, I know this is an old thread, but did you get the jerky raising of the 3pt sorted? Was it a MLS valve adjustment?
The reason I ask is because I am having the same symptions with my CK35. When I very slowly move the 3pt lever to raise my snowblower a tiny bit, it jerks up about an inch with each try. Not a very smooth movement at all.
I'm not going to deal with this till spring when it's time to take the blower off.
Curious what your outcome was. Thanks.

spindlewood · Feb 9, 2017

@Amcane, Yes it takes some rattling of the brain cells to remember how it ended.

Based on the post I linked to in my first post, "The MLS only affects 3PH lowering speed, NOT raise speed/condition." So I am pretty sure I abandoned dealing with the MLS.

I am also pretty sure that my solution was not ideal. Namely to NOT lift the 3 pt hitch in little increments. It seems it works best / smoothest when the lever is thrown into raise mode. Sorry for the foggy answer. I can see this might not be satisfactory when raising or lowering a snowblower. I have my blower on the front and so don't use the 3 pt hitch. Let me know what you have found out in the spring. Also read that first post, if you haven't already. It has some good information in it.

southernAL · Feb 10, 2017

To add to this thread, I posted a thread not too long ago about my ck2510 having this same issue. I took the seat off and adjusted the MLS valve and it did help out(raises very smoothly now) I think I still need to play with it some and adjust out because now it seems jerky when lowering after it warms up.

xcgreene · Jun 14, 2017

Should anyone stumble on this thread with a jerking 3pt hitch in a new tractor, I thought I would offer this up. On One of my DK45SEH I had a jerking 3pt hitch when the tractor was brand new. No adjustments or methods really helped at all. I removed the MLS valve, (after removing the operators seat you can unbolt the MLS and pull it right out), whole thing is about the size of a beer can, maybe a bit bigger. There is a needle valve held down by a spring, you can see it clearly on the side of the MLS valve itself without having to disassemble it further. The needle was sidways in its slot, obviously an issue from the manufacturer of the MLS valve. I simply removed the spring and needle, set it in properly, threw it all back together and BINGO smooth as butter. No special tools needed for this exercise. I was working with Kioti at the time to try and solve the problem, This particular dealership was admittedly only sufficient for basic service, but they were allowing me to do the work in my own shop while they would provide me with any parts needed. I reported back with the findings and they sent me a brand new, $800 MLS valve in exchange for the repaired one. There was nothing more wrong with that MLS valve after repair, the needle valve seat look fine and 3 point hitch functioned as it should, but they obviously needed the MLS valve for a number of reasons. I hope this may help someone who is having problems using their 3pt hitch for the first time.

southernAL · Jul 12, 2017

Xcgreene, do you think it is the same way with my 2510? Does it hurt anything to pull the valve out?

xcgreene · Jul 12, 2017

southernAL said:
Xcgreene, do you think it is the same way with my 2510? Does it hurt anything to pull the valve out?

I'm not familiar with the 2510 specifically, but if it has an MLS valve, there is no unusual risk to remove it and check for abnormalities. Just be sure to have the tractor shut off and FEL set down. Be careful not to damage the oring that seats the valve to the transmission case. But even if you do, or find the old one is worn out, it can be replaced. Also be very sure your work area is clean. Dont let any debris get into the transmission or MLS valve.

Best of luck, let us know what you find!