3-Point Hitch Jerky 3 pt hitch movement with lifting post hole digger on DK40SE cab

spindlewood · May 22, 2014

I have the identical problem that is in this post here on a DK40SE Cab. The OP never got back to update on the fix, if there ever was one (I promise to post back once it is fixed!).

Anyway, tractor arrived a week or so ago from the dealer, and I finally took off the backhoe and put on the Post Hole Digger. Everything works fine going down and I can go down slowly. When not in motion, the PHD does not move at all. However, lifting the PHD is very jerky. No matter how little of an increment is used for the lift, every movement of the lever is met with a sudden jerk of the PTO.

Hydro fluid level is fine. Draft control is all the way forward. The PHD frame is mounted to the top hole in the top link mount. I am sure that with nothing attached to the PTO, it lowered fine - otherwise the dealer would have noticed and I believe I observed him lowering it as well.

Does anyone know if this is fixed with an MLS adjustment? Coyote Machine said that the MLS only affects 3PH lowering speed, NOT raise speed/condition. If I KNEW the MLS adjustment would fix the problem, it would be worth the hassle. Don't want to take it apart and find out it didn't fix the problem.

Tomorrow, I will play with changing the Draft lever a tad to see it it makes any difference. Will also change the drop speed and test. I don't want to remove the PHD yet and test with empty 3 pt hitch as it was a fair amount of wrestling to get it hooked up in the first place and I'm only 1/4 done with the job.

Any other suggestions?

rjwerth · May 22, 2014

Make sure the top link pin is in the correct position that completely bypasses the Draft control. I'd tell you which position that was, but I'm nowhere near my tractor at the moment.

k0ua · May 22, 2014

The PHD frame is mounted to the top hole in the top link mount.

He has it in the top hole now so the draft control will have no effect.

Do you have a workshop manual? If so you could go thru the adjustment procedure of the MLS valve. I am not talking about turning the knob under the seat but the actual MLS valve adjustment procedure as outlined in the workshop manual.. If not, best call the dealer and let them go thru it.

spindlewood · May 23, 2014

I've adjusted the draft lever and change the dial for drop speed and neither had a positive effect. I've left it with the dealer to find Kioti's recommendation before I (or he) adjusts the MLS.

Amvcane · Feb 9, 2017

Spindlewood, I know this is an old thread, but did you get the jerky raising of the 3pt sorted? Was it a MLS valve adjustment?
The reason I ask is because I am having the same symptions with my CK35. When I very slowly move the 3pt lever to raise my snowblower a tiny bit, it jerks up about an inch with each try. Not a very smooth movement at all.
I'm not going to deal with this till spring when it's time to take the blower off.
Curious what your outcome was. Thanks.

spindlewood · Feb 9, 2017

@Amcane, Yes it takes some rattling of the brain cells to remember how it ended.

Based on the post I linked to in my first post, "The MLS only affects 3PH lowering speed, NOT raise speed/condition." So I am pretty sure I abandoned dealing with the MLS.

I am also pretty sure that my solution was not ideal. Namely to NOT lift the 3 pt hitch in little increments. It seems it works best / smoothest when the lever is thrown into raise mode. Sorry for the foggy answer. I can see this might not be satisfactory when raising or lowering a snowblower. I have my blower on the front and so don't use the 3 pt hitch. Let me know what you have found out in the spring. Also read that first post, if you haven't already. It has some good information in it.

southernAL · Feb 10, 2017

To add to this thread, I posted a thread not too long ago about my ck2510 having this same issue. I took the seat off and adjusted the MLS valve and it did help out(raises very smoothly now) I think I still need to play with it some and adjust out because now it seems jerky when lowering after it warms up.

xcgreene · Jun 14, 2017

Should anyone stumble on this thread with a jerking 3pt hitch in a new tractor, I thought I would offer this up. On One of my DK45SEH I had a jerking 3pt hitch when the tractor was brand new. No adjustments or methods really helped at all. I removed the MLS valve, (after removing the operators seat you can unbolt the MLS and pull it right out), whole thing is about the size of a beer can, maybe a bit bigger. There is a needle valve held down by a spring, you can see it clearly on the side of the MLS valve itself without having to disassemble it further. The needle was sidways in its slot, obviously an issue from the manufacturer of the MLS valve. I simply removed the spring and needle, set it in properly, threw it all back together and BINGO smooth as butter. No special tools needed for this exercise. I was working with Kioti at the time to try and solve the problem, This particular dealership was admittedly only sufficient for basic service, but they were allowing me to do the work in my own shop while they would provide me with any parts needed. I reported back with the findings and they sent me a brand new, $800 MLS valve in exchange for the repaired one. There was nothing more wrong with that MLS valve after repair, the needle valve seat look fine and 3 point hitch functioned as it should, but they obviously needed the MLS valve for a number of reasons. I hope this may help someone who is having problems using their 3pt hitch for the first time.

southernAL · Jul 12, 2017

Xcgreene, do you think it is the same way with my 2510? Does it hurt anything to pull the valve out?

xcgreene · Jul 12, 2017

southernAL said:
Xcgreene, do you think it is the same way with my 2510? Does it hurt anything to pull the valve out?

I'm not familiar with the 2510 specifically, but if it has an MLS valve, there is no unusual risk to remove it and check for abnormalities. Just be sure to have the tractor shut off and FEL set down. Be careful not to damage the oring that seats the valve to the transmission case. But even if you do, or find the old one is worn out, it can be replaced. Also be very sure your work area is clean. Dont let any debris get into the transmission or MLS valve.

Best of luck, let us know what you find!

southernAL · Jul 12, 2017

I loosened the two bolts and fluid started coming out, so I quickly tightened them back down. Oops! Lol think I'll just take it to the dealer

xcgreene · Jul 12, 2017

southernAL said:
I loosened the two bolts and fluid started coming out, so I quickly tightened them back down. Oops! Lol think I'll just take it to the dealer

Is your MLS valve on the top or bottom of the transmission?

southernAL · Jul 12, 2017

On the top. Right under the seat

xcgreene · Jul 13, 2017

southernAL said:
On the top. Right under the seat

Also have the 3pt hitch down if your problem will allow. The MLS valve throttles speed of the 3pt hitch setting down, so their may be a bit a fluid you will see from this function. But even if it is up, the volume you will get out of the MLS will be limited to what that 3pt cylinder can hold. The majority of your fluid is down in your transmission lower half and will not leak out. Crack the bolts on the MLS valve until it starts to leak slowly, and let it drain this way into a pan, you will find it isn't very much fluid. Probably isn't a decent way to put a pan right under the MLS valve, so you may have to make a little oil channel. I just let mine drain down over the transmission and into a pan on the shop floor. In my instance I had a few cups of oil drain out.

gunmonkeyintl · Aug 6, 2017

spindlewood said:
@Amcane, Yes it takes some rattling of the brain cells to remember how it ended.

Based on the post I linked to in my first post, "The MLS only affects 3PH lowering speed, NOT raise speed/condition." So I am pretty sure I abandoned dealing with the MLS.

I am also pretty sure that my solution was not ideal. Namely to NOT lift the 3 pt hitch in little increments. It seems it works best / smoothest when the lever is thrown into raise mode. Sorry for the foggy answer. I can see this might not be satisfactory when raising or lowering a snowblower. I have my blower on the front and so don't use the 3 pt hitch. Let me know what you have found out in the spring. Also read that first post, if you haven't already. It has some good information in it.

Kinda ironic that you mention my post in your OP, and said that I never came back with the resolution (but promised to do so, yourself), when I actually posted the same end-result in the thread you mentioned, a year before your OP, and you waited another 3 years to come back and say the same.

In the end, mine raises, lowers, and holds position smoothly. It's just when I try to raise it really, REALLY slowly that it is jerky.

A couple years ago, in trying to make sure that mine was fine, I did end up removing and disassembling the MLS valve, per the service manual, but I didn't find any issues like @xcgreene described below. Mine was properly assembled and in good condition. I also ran through the sensitivity adjustment procedure twice, testing for jerky slow lifting along the way, and arrived at exactly the original setting both times.

In the end, this is the first 3ph that I'd spent any significant time with, and I think it was my lack of experience showing. It seems there is just a limit to how slowly you can raise one smoothly.

xcgreene said:
Should anyone stumble on this thread with a jerking 3pt hitch in a new tractor, I thought I would offer this up. On One of my DK45SEH I had a jerking 3pt hitch when the tractor was brand new. No adjustments or methods really helped at all. I removed the MLS valve, (after removing the operators seat you can unbolt the MLS and pull it right out), whole thing is about the size of a beer can, maybe a bit bigger. There is a needle valve held down by a spring, you can see it clearly on the side of the MLS valve itself without having to disassemble it further. The needle was sidways in its slot, obviously an issue from the manufacturer of the MLS valve. I simply removed the spring and needle, set it in properly, threw it all back together and BINGO smooth as butter. No special tools needed for this exercise. I was working with Kioti at the time to try and solve the problem, This particular dealership was admittedly only sufficient for basic service, but they were allowing me to do the work in my own shop while they would provide me with any parts needed. I reported back with the findings and they sent me a brand new, $800 MLS valve in exchange for the repaired one. There was nothing more wrong with that MLS valve after repair, the needle valve seat look fine and 3 point hitch functioned as it should, but they obviously needed the MLS valve for a number of reasons. I hope this may help someone who is having problems using their 3pt hitch for the first time.

GarlicOfEden · Jul 19, 2019

The issue you are dealing with concerning the 3 point hitch function has nothing to do with the flow valve located under your seat. It is the 3 point valve and there is nothing wrong with this valve. The valve is a single function valve. Basic as it can be. It is build up pressure to go Up or release pressure to let Down, only. Therefore, you can not feather. Kioti uses this minimal valve to offer as many features possible at the lower price.

spindlewood · Jul 19, 2019

This makes total sense. Thanks for explaining. I guess that's the good news / bad news. You can't make it do something it wasn't designed to do. However, having implements coming up toward the back cab window at full speed is a recipe for disaster. There is barely any extra room between some implements (e.g. post hole digger) and the cab and I've been concerned about busting the back window from accidental impact. I ended up with a broken back window a year ago and it's likely from something like this.

Anyway, thanks for confirming the price of my cost savings by going Kioti.

GarlicOfEden · Jul 21, 2019

Well, don't get me wrong. I am absolutely in love with my DK4210SE HC. It does everything I ask of it. But like others I was concerned with the 3 Point movement and researched it. For me, here's what I've found with my tractor. After learning about the valve's simplicity, instead of slowly and gradually lifting the 3 Point (as I have done with all the older tractors), I get right to the point. Example, I was very concerned about the PTO linkage on my tiller going to too much of an angle. What I do with the Kioti is go straight from down to 7. 7 seems to be a good raised position height for my tiller. When I pull back on the position lever, I do it quickly, right to 7. When I do that it goes smoothly, right to the height I want. So basically I have compensated myself to the tractor. As for the price of saving money, you right!, you right! It's like that with everything. However, it is possible to have the valve upgraded. It's a pretty penny if you have a shop do it. But even then, it comes no where close to what I would have paid for another brand that comes standard with a valve that can smoothly feather. But I fully expected that. I immediately customized mine. I've replaced the 4 work lights and added 4 by installing 8 LED floods around the brim of the cab. It's like a halo of light. It fully lights up more than a 3/4 acre around me like daylight for $76 and $12 for the switch. The seat belt ends were jamming into my backside. So, I extended them out just a bit with Grade 8 bolts and spacers for a few bucks and added a back up camera and a magnetic camera for the FEL that sticks on the bucket or forks. I am a happy boy. So, if there features you want/need, add them. You've still saved a metric crap tonne of cash.