Ballast Can I do it Myself?

[whis]

if the nut holding the valve stem to the wheel is plastic you have a tube, if its metal its tubeless

 

[mmranch]

Thanks for the info! The nut is plastic & I would expect a tube.

After stopping the pump & waiting... the tire resumed it's normal shape. I continued pumping again and stopped/started several times and got quite a bit more fluid out. Then the liquid totally stopped coming out. Got about 60 gallons out.

Because of trying to pull out the fluid from a mostly closed tube, the process was slow. When flushing the pump with clean water afterwards... the pumping was very fast shooting out a large volume of water.

When filling the new (closed) tube, I expect the process to be slow again. I'm a bit concerned about the pressure buildup when filling the new tube.

I know that I should reverse the lever on the pump to relieve pressure. The pump has a pressure gauge on the outflow side. I'm guessing this is what I should be watching to determine pressure buildup in the filling tube? What sort of reading should indicate too much pressure buildup?

Thanks again.

 

[mmranch]

Another question:

The tire has an 'Easy Notch' right where the tire bead meets the rim. It is a 6" gap in the bead shape. I'm assuming this is the best spot to start prying the bead off the rim?

Thanks!

 

[olPete]

Hi, yes you got the idea of what that notch is for. I have sometimes had to use vise-grips on the rim, to stop it coming off the rim fast as you put it on!
I don't know if you guys use filling adapters for loading or not. Because we just use water, I've always used an adapter, which has a water fitting and screws onto the valve, plus has a tiny hole to let the air escape. Guess you could make one, if you have a suitable T and spare hose. Could just run the extra line back to the container of ballast, kinda like the return on an injection system. I usually have the valve near the top, they say to have it 10 or 2 o'clock but I usually go higher with water, don't want rusty rims!
Hopefully, the weight of the ballast will have at least loosened the bead for you. If you can get a bar in the notch first, and then just work slowly around. You will get it, but there's no recipe for success, you will just need to persevere and experiment what works.
Once you can see in there, you will know whether you need to completely dismount it, or hopefully you can just inspect the inside of the tyre carcass and rim and deem them to be near enough to put the new tube in. Pay particular attention to the rim for rust, it makes sense to give it a dust-up with a wirewheel while you can, and a spray with primer if you do; also it pays to check the inside of the carcass for any rough areas, damage, punctures. These can be ground or sanded smooth. If there is any debris, vacuum it out!
When it comes time put put it back together, the only tips I have are: 1 use plenty of baby talc in there to stop the new tube being a PIA by sticking to itself and the tire
2 put a little air in the tube so it holds a little shape, this will make it a lot easier to get it free of kinks+folds, and make it a lot less likely that you will pinch it with the bars. I usually try to start opposite the stem and finish at the valve, but that's only a nicety. It's whatever works for you!

 

[olPete]

Finally watched the video. Noticed he also used the vise-grips.. but didn't have much air in the tube. He knows what he's doing better than me, but I would fill the tube out a little once you get the valve through. That will help keep the valve through, and then you won't pinch a fold between the tip of the bar and the rim, if you have the tip of the bar in a little deep. Best of luck!

 

[Oldpath05]

Another question:

The tire has an 'Easy Notch' right where the tire bead meets the rim. It is a 6" gap in the bead shape. I'm assuming this is the best spot to start prying the bead off the rim?

Thanks!

I'm understanding most of this, except for (Easy Notch) <<<<<What is that, and isn't this calcium stuff the same as used on snow covered roads? Vehicles in my state rust away in 10 years if not washed, that's why the car wash stations here are the busiest this time of year.

When I bought my tractor tires a couple years ago, the place where I bought my tractor said they couldn't replace them for atleast two weeks and they refill with beet juice, but I needed tires ASAP, so went to a truck tire place and they replaced them the same day, the only issue was they only use calcium and they put it in tubes. Hopefully in ten years or less when I replace the tires, I wont need the tractor ASAP and have new tires with beet juice put back in, be inneresting to see if my rims are rusted out, if they are that would make a good reason to change from AG tire to R4 tires.

 

[olPete]

I'm understanding most of this, except for (Easy Notch)

You will be right to run any liquid in your tires, so long as the rim is always submerged in the liquid it can't rust. I would always put it in a tube though, to be safe. The problem with corrosive stuff, as I see it, is if you have a slow leak then it needs to be fixed quickly. Other than its nasty and a pain to keep off yourself when fixing leaks etc. Glad I don't need it!

 

[fried1765]

I'm understanding most of this, except for (Easy Notch) <<<<<What is that, and isn't this calcium stuff the same as used on snow covered roads? Vehicles in my state rust away in 10 years if not washed, that's why the car wash stations here are the busiest this time of year.

When I bought my tractor tires a couple years ago, the place where I bought my tractor said they couldn't replace them for atleast two weeks and they refill with beet juice, but I needed tires ASAP, so went to a truck tire place and they replaced them the same day, the only issue was they only use calcium and they put it in tubes. Hopefully in ten years or less when I replace the tires, I wont need the tractor ASAP and have new tires with beet juice put back in, be inneresting to see if my rims are rusted out, if they are that would make a good reason to change from AG tire to R4 tires.

You will likely be just fine with CaCl in your tires (with tubes) if you get it out at 10 years, or before.
Over time, what may happen, is that the tubes may fail where the valves are vulcanized into the tube.
This can be very slow, and subtle, and will first show up as slight rust around the fill valve area.
If you see ANY rust in that area, get the CaCl out!
Of course, leakage anywhere else in the tube, will also cause rust to form in that same valve stem area.
"Beet juice" is expensive, and requires filling by a tire, or tractor, dealer.
Windshield washer fluid is about 1/3 the cost of "beet juice", and YOU can do it, with a simple special liquid fill valve purchased ($10) at TSC.

 

[Oldpath05]

First thing I'll do is look for is that mysterious Easy Notch when I get my tractor in the garage today. In that earlier tire changing video, he dosen't take the rim off, is that the norm or because the tire hasn't been on there that long, or is easier to change tire with rim on tractor? Did the OP say what size his tire is? He took out 60 gal. CaCl, must be a big tire, my rear tires are 11.2-24, cant imagine having 60 gal in them.

 

[olPete]

First thing I'll do is look for is that mysterious Easy Notch when I get my tractor in the garage today. In that earlier tire changing video, he dosen't take the rim off, is that the norm or because the tire hasn't been on there that long, or is easier to change tire with rim on tractor? Did the OP say what size his tire is? He took out 60 gal. CaCl, must be a big tire, my rear tires are 11.2-24, cant imagine having 60 gal in them.

Way easier to do it upright and on the tractor. I did enough time in a tire shop to hate seeing a tractor wheel come in on a trailer, especially larger size ones. On the tractor is best as it's all up in the air and sturdy as you work