4410 MFWD failure

[medic1050]

So I started my 4410 today at about -17C which is about 0F I park in a shed and I usually pull forward a few feet to move the exaust to be outside allowing the tractor to warm up without gassing myself.
Today as I pulled forward there was a metalic PING and the MFWD was pouring oil onto the floor. On both final drives the housing cap (PART H) blew off spilling all the oil. There was some ice on the caps. I wonder if some water got into the system a seeing as how this is the lowest area the water could accumulate there. Add the cold and the expansion of ice could have popped them loose.
Has this ever happened to anyone?
It appears that the caps are essentially glued back into place using a retaining compound. Has anyone done this?
It will be weeks until the weather is above freezing. Can I fix this in the cold or do I need ot float the tractor to the shop as it is heated?

 

[beenthere]

Bummer, but I know I'd want to get the tractor in where it was heated to work on it.
How far do you have to move it to get it there?

 

[medic1050]

There is a wood stove in the barn where I park the tractor. If I pour the coal to the fire it may warm up to above freezing in a couple days. My fear is for the best quality job, as this one lasted for 16 years I should probably get it done at the tractor repair shop.

 

[pmsmechanic]

To me it sounds like you should start draining the condensation out of your final drives every fall. You are ,making me think that I should do mine. There is a small pipe plug at the bottom of the final drive for draining oil during oil changes.

 

[medic1050]

To me it sounds like you should start draining the condensation out of your final drives every fall. You are ,making me think that I should do mine. There is a small pipe plug at the bottom of the final drive for draining oil during oil changes.

Indeed I should have. I have only changed the hydraulic fluid in them once right when I bought the tractor back in 2008. I've had a bit of fluid leak from the axle seals especially when it gets hot. I don't ford water so I didn't think that much water would be in there. I am a Murphy and there is a law about what can happen to me....

 

[sd455dan]

So I started my 4410 today at about -17C which is about 0F I park in a shed and I usually pull forward a few feet to move the exaust to be outside allowing the tractor to warm up without gassing myself.
Today as I pulled forward there was a metalic PING and the MFWD was pouring oil onto the floor. On both final drives the housing cap (PART H) blew off spilling all the oil. There was some ice on the caps. I wonder if some water got into the system a seeing as how this is the lowest area the water could accumulate there. Add the cold and the expansion of ice could have popped them loose.
Has this ever happened to anyone?
It appears that the caps are essentially glued back into place using a retaining compound. Has anyone done this?
It will be weeks until the weather is above freezing. Can I fix this in the cold or do I need ot float the tractor to the shop as it is heated?

View attachment 501940

Seems odd both sides froze and (broke). Did the gears actually sustain damage or did the caps just pop off with no real gear carnage?

Regardless of who repairs it, It would probably be a good idea to determine ( How ) that much water got in the final drive ends.
Lots of 4x4 tractors that have worked in water in the warm months and not had water intrusion / freezing in below zero weather.

Wouldn't want to have to repeat this repair in a another winter or two- Just have a hard time picturing condensation being significant enough to be the cause?

 

[beenthere]

Not sure what "float" the tractor to the shop means here (by barge??), but I'd first fire up the wood stove )or get it to your shop, then clean both caps before applying the retaining compound, and stick them back on. Fill with oil and trust that they will last another 16 years or more.
Make note if the caps are warped or bent, in which case I'd get new ones (might do that anyway just to be sure).

 

[medic1050]

Not sure what "float" the tractor to the shop means here (by barge??), but I'd first fire up the wood stove )or get it to your shop, then clean both caps before applying the retaining compound, and stick them back on. Fill with oil and trust that they will last another 16 years or more.
Make note if the caps are warped or bent, in which case I'd get new ones (might do that anyway just to be sure).

I meant float it on a flat bed tow truck to the tractor repair shop for several hundred in repairs unless I can get my own workshop warm enough and my stones big enough to tackle this project myself. The caps blew off at the door of my own workshop but it is a really big room filled with stuff to big for me to lift and the tractor is out of commission. It might take a day or two to warm up my shop where the tractor repair shop should have me up and running in a day or two.