Massey 65 Perkins rear main leak

[cueballtech]

Ok long story short. Bought tractor, old clutch soaked in oil, put in new clutch, replaced leaky rear main... Still leaking...
Gonna split again and replace seal... Also gonna replace oil pan gasket, main bearings, and thrust washers.
Anything I'm missing while I'm in there.
Oil pressure holds at 50#.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Was the clutch soaked in engine oil (black) or gearbox oil (could be pale brown to almost cream in colour)?
If you're seeing gearbox oil coming from the bell-housing, and you have a two-stage clutch, note there are two seals on the gearbox input shafts.

 

[cueballtech]

Was the clutch soaked in engine oil (black) or gearbox oil (could be pale brown to almost cream in colour)?
If you're seeing gearbox oil coming from the bell-housing, and you have a two-stage clutch, note there are two seals on the gearbox input shafts.

It's engine oil, not gearbox oil

 

[sweettractors]

Ok long story short. Bought tractor, old clutch soaked in oil, put in new clutch, replaced leaky rear main... Still leaking...
Gonna split again and replace seal... Also gonna replace oil pan gasket, main bearings, and thrust washers.
Anything I'm missing while I'm in there.
Oil pressure holds at 50#.

I have seen many of those tractors with rear main leaking and a new seal does not fix the problem. Many times the crankshaft main bearings are shot. Ken Sweet

 

[PatrickS2222]

If that's the case and the journals on the crankshaft are nice and shiny they'll be Ok, it's quite easy to slip some new bearings into place while the sump is off, without removing the crankshaft. These are forgiving but tough engines check a couple, maybe with some plasti-gauge, and determine how much clearance they have. Be sure to check the size - usually stamped on the back of the shells, and fit the same standard or under-size replacement bearings. Also, if only some of the replacement shells have oil holes, ensure you fit these above the crankshaft (in the block), and the others in the caps. Take care to not scratch the bearing journals, and keep it all clean.
It probably won't be necessary, and you will indeed need to remove the crankshaft in order to renew the thrust bearings, but they need to be fitted facing the correct direction - only one side is lined and goes toward the shaft. Torque the caps accordingly. Internal parts for these engines are very low in price - I put liner kits, bearings and seals in my 3cyl Perkins loader engine - all that cost less than A$500, and it's done its share of heavy work since then with flying colours. :thumbsup: