Loader Leveling loader left to right?

[MossRoad]

Has it always been like this or is it something you've just noticed?

Also, check the bucket for square. On my old IH2500b, the bucket was bent.

Another thing to check is curl the bucket all the way back and check. Then dump the bucket all the way forward and check. Then put the bucket in the middle of the dump stroke and check. If the left side hits first in all three positions, as others have suggested, its probably something bent in the loader frame.

 

[dieselcrawler]

It was mentioned, but not adequately emphasized that the REAR tire pressure could be at fault. An absolutely flat, leval surface is needed, (the concrete floor in my barn looks flat/leval, but varies by over an inch in hight many places when checked with straight edge/leval), and rear tire pressure matched. Then go through the bucket check, curled, unfurled, etc.

For your sake, I hope it's just a low rear tire. Bent loader frame is hard to fix and/or big $.

 

[Oldoak]

..................................................... I fixed mine be parking the tractor on a slab, checked the pressures, then completely loosening all the subframe mounting bolts, lowering the bucket to the ground so it was level too, then tightening the bolts back up.

That is the first thing that came to my mind.

If you find nothing obviously wrong by making simple checks, I would follow breadtrk's advice. Then if it is still skewed, I think something is bent/twisted and you have a bigger problem.

 

[Jabonee]

Anyone know how to level the loader (left to right) on a Max 22? When I bring the bucket down on a flat surface the left side of the bucket touches the ground at least an inch before the right side does. If I keep going down until the right side touches you can see the entire left assembly try to push the front left wheel off the ground.

I tried loosening all of the tear drop brackets on the loader arms, shimming the bucket level and then tightening them all back down but that only bought me like an eighth of an inch.

Its almost like I need to retreat the left cylinder a little bit - like it's over extended.

Ideas?

If the loader frame is not tweaked this is the procedure. Correct PSI in tires. Tractor parked on smooth level surface . Loosen loader mount bolts just enough to allow them to float. Lay bucket flat on ground and apply just enough boom down PSI to slightly lift the front tire up. Retighten loader mount bolts.:thumbsup:

 

[PILOON]

A worn out to oversize bolt hole on a subframe attachment point can result in a substantial miss alignment at the bucket cutting edge.
It basically is all simple math.
(1/8" some 4-5 ft back(pivot point) can result in 3-4" at the cutting edge.)
I saw my bucket demonstrate a 3-4" miss alignment that was caused by a 1/2" sub frame hole that was warn oval due to being lose.
All those attachment bolts really need to be 'torque checked' on a regular basis.

What I did was (once re positioned properly) drill out the warn bolt hole oversize and use a larger bolt.
Tools were a flat surface and my long spirit level with equally inflated tires.

 

[boost2525]

A worn out to oversize bolt hole on a subframe attachment point can result in a substantial miss alignment at the bucket cutting edge.
It basically is all simple math.
(1/8" some 4-5 ft back(pivot point) can result in 3-4" at the cutting edge.)
I saw my bucket demonstrate a 3-4" miss alignment that was caused by a 1/2" sub frame hole that was warn oval due to being lose.
All those attachment bolts really need to be 'torque checked' on a regular basis.

What I did was (once re positioned properly) drill out the warn bolt hole oversize and use a larger bolt.
Tools were a flat surface and my long spirit level with equally inflated tires.

I am starting to think this is the case for me.

I had some time to tinker with it tonight. I double checked the barn floor is level (it is), and the tire PSI was equal left to right (it was), so I was starting with something effectively level. I started taking measurements all around the vehicle while the bucket was in various positions. The arms were always equal distance from the floor, so I think I can rule out bent arms / bent frame. I sanity checked that the axle was free to move and nothing was binding/locking it off level.

I noticed two things that I'm going to try and hone in on tomorrow when I have some more time.

1) The RIGHT cylinder is extended about 1/2"-3/4" further than the left cylinder... not sure of cause or solution, but it's something to note.

2) The RIGHT arm had some "slop" when raising and lowering. I need an extra set of hands so I can get my face up close while moving it, but my initial feeling is that the slop is coming from the quick release pin on the arm, and a quick visual inspection seems to indicate that the pin is angled slightly / the hole is not tight to the pin. I need to bust out the calipers and verify against the left side though.

Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions, keep them coming if anyone has other ideas.

 

[Dadnatron]

Running into a tree while watching the implement on the rear is a prime cause of this problem. I fixed mine be parking the tractor on a slab, checked the pressures, then completely loosening all the subframe mounting bolts, lowering the bucket to the ground so it was level too, then tightening the bolts back up.

I would think it is the subframe connection or you've bent it. But I know I have been using my FEL HEAVILY over the last few months. I can see that the subframe connection has slipped approximately 1/8" from original location by the look of the bolts and washers. If I needed it perfectly square or was through with tree pulling, I'd do this exactly. I know that the 1/8" at the frame is translating to much more 15' out at the bucket corner.

 

[Xfaxman]

Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions, keep them coming if anyone has other ideas.

Is the tractor frame level? Different rear tire diameters would cause the frame to be unlevel.

Measure from the floor to the rear axle on each side.

 

[mike69440]

I am starting to think this is the case for me.

I had some time to tinker with it tonight. I double checked the barn floor is level (it is), and the tire PSI was equal left to right (it was), so I was starting with something effectively level. I started taking measurements all around the vehicle while the bucket was in various positions. The arms were always equal distance from the floor, so I think I can rule out bent arms / bent frame. I sanity checked that the axle was free to move and nothing was binding/locking it off level.

I noticed two things that I'm going to try and hone in on tomorrow when I have some more time.

1) The RIGHT cylinder is extended about 1/2"-3/4" further than the left cylinder... not sure of cause or solution, but it's something to note.

2) The RIGHT arm had some "slop" when raising and lowering. I need an extra set of hands so I can get my face up close while moving it, but my initial feeling is that the slop is coming from the quick release pin on the arm, and a quick visual inspection seems to indicate that the pin is angled slightly / the hole is not tight to the pin. I need to bust out the calipers and verify against the left side though.

Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions, keep them coming if anyone has other ideas.

At full extension, are the cylinders the same length?

 

[boost2525]

At full extension, are the cylinders the same length?

At absolute full extension, they are both the same length. That said, when I raise the bucket to full extension there is (for lack of a better term) a "natural full extension" and a "forced full extension".

At natural full extension you can tell both sides are operating together and at the same rate, one cylinder is fully extended, the other is about a 1/2" short. If you continue on for that last millimeter to get to "forced full extension" one side stays motionless (already at full extension) the short side continues on for a half inch and the arms "flex" to accommodate it... thus why I'm calling it forced full extension.

At the natural full extension point, the right side arm is actually "loose" in the sense that it has NO CONTACT with the quick release pin. You can actually slide the arm left to right and it will move an eight of an inch within the arm mounts. The left side remains in full contact with the quick release pin the entire cycle.

I took some video but I need to edit it down and get it uploaded somewhere. It's difficult to explain, easier to see.