Building a Power Rake (Harley Rake)

[texasranger556]

I like the nuts and bolts idea particularly for the ease of replacement. Could try different types of bolt heads such as hex, carriage, plow etc over time to see what wears best and most effective.
Drilling and tapping the location for each bolt, albeit time consuming, would act as a locator for holding the nut while welding as well as additional support for the bolt when assembled.
I would think that a grade 8 (or equivalent) bolt would have decent wear resistance for the price compared to carbide. One issue might be trash hanging up on the bolt heads.

I don't have a mag drill and even if I did it would take several days to drill and tap that many holes. In other builds, it seems like 8-10 hours to weld teeth on a drum is common. Welding nuts on may improve that time.

 

[Industrial Toys]

The other issue is that I go up one side leaving a windrow lets say 3/4 over. Then the other way, same thing, but it's hard to get rid of that last windrow.

 

[texasranger556]

Compare the nut and bolt prices at Rural King or TSC if you have them close by. Use their scales to see how many are in a pound, and figure out your cost. Grade 8 is Grade 8, and their bulk pricing might save you some money.

150 1/2x1" bolts weights about 20 lbs according to my search. My local TSC charges $4.59 per pound for grade 8, so it works out very similar. Problem is TSC likely won't have 150 bolts, so I'll have to order anyway. Thanks for the suggestion.

150 is just a WAG, I'll have to work out the actual number when it comes down to it.

 

[texasranger556]

View attachment 503687

The other issue is that I go up one side leaving a windrow lets say 3/4 over. Then the other way, same thing, but it's hard to get rid of that last windrow.

The newer versions have teeth rather than the bars and dual rollers. Have you been able to compare? I'm guessing they work better since all the other brands copied the teeth design.

 

[Ford850]

150 1/2x1" bolts weights about 20 lbs according to my search. My local TSC charges $4.59 per pound for grade 8, so it works out very similar. Problem is TSC likely won't have 150 bolts, so I'll have to order anyway. Thanks for the suggestion.

150 is just a WAG, I'll have to work out the actual number when it comes down to it.

It sounds like you have it covered, but there's also Bolt Depot - Nuts and Bolts, Screws and Fasteners online for a wide variety and good pricing.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I have wondered about the bars vs the nibs. Harley has made the new rakes cheaper eliminating the S tines and the second rollers if I am not mistaken, so it is kind of a different animal. My rake sorts the smaller material in between the rollers windrowing the larger crap to the side, so this required bars and would not work with nibs.

It seems like magic just watching this process.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

1) Grade 8 bolts. Weld 1/2" nuts to the drum, then thread in 1/2" bolts with lock washers or a second nut to take up any gap. The bolt length would be between 3/4-1". The head of the bolt would take most of the wear and could be unscrewed and replaced if necessary. Cost through mcmaster carr is $90 for 150 bolts plus $25 for nuts. Moving up to 5/8" is $135 and $50 for bolts and nuts.

This seems like by far the easiest way to get teeth on it. For $70, to me it's a no-brainer to step up to the 5/8". More surface to weld on, more wear surface and the nut is thicker to allow more threads on the bolt to hold into it.

 

[the old grind]

Not to Hijack, but landscape rake and Ratchet Rake :thumbsup: will scratch better than any of my blades, and angling the former is how I crowned my d'way w/o ripples. The RR will scuff up fines needed to blend into what fills the potholes. For me this was eventually a 'no till' easy way to narrow my 18' to 12' (gravel pit, it once was) after a decade of fruitless blading. (Controlling runoff now minimizes saturation and frost heave.)

btw, I've tuned my method on the front 500', including the 200' shared with our township's uh .. premier pothole 'locating' team.

All that said, I'd weld nuts to the drum and use Allen-head or socket-head (Allen) screws. When heads/tips become worn I'd just build-'em back up as needed with hard-facing rod in situ. Quicker/cheaper for a few rounds than changing out a full set?

 

[texasranger556]

This seems like by far the easiest way to get teeth on it. For $70, to me it's a no-brainer to step up to the 5/8". More surface to weld on, more wear surface and the nut is thicker to allow more threads on the bolt to hold into it.

The commercial carbide teeth are rounded off nubs rather than a big fat hex head. I agree the 5/8" would last longer and be stronger, but I wonder if a smaller bolt head would "dig" better? I've never run a power rake so judging this all by videos I've found and internet opinion.

 

[texasranger556]

All that said, I'd weld nuts to the drum and use Allen-head or socket-head (Allen) screws. When heads/tips become worn I'd just build-'em back up as needed with hard-facing rod in situ. Quicker/cheaper for a few rounds than changing out a full set?

Interesting idea. Is hard facing rod easy to come by? I have a Lincoln MP210 and use MIG exclusively with .035 wire and gas shielding, but it does come with a rod holder to stick weld which I've never tried.