adding rear remotes to MX5100

[baseballtrapper]

I'm looking to add 2 rear remotes and T-N-T to a MX5100 HST that already has FEL and true 3rd function. I was wondering if you guys could confirm that I have the correct idea of the flow of the hydraulic system that I drew in the pic. All advice such as setup options, valve brands, etc. is appreciated.
Thanks guys

 

[LD1]

The In, Out, and R on the return , assuming the R means return.....the out should be correctly labeled as PB. If that is what you meant by that, then yes you are correct. Just make sure whatever valve you get for the rears, you also get the PB conversion kit for it. Sometimes its adding a plug, sometimes removing, etc. Consult the MFG documents to be sure. But you have things correct so far.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You have it figured out. :thumbsup: If you want good valves that will give you Zero problems, get Bucher valves. I highly recommend getting both valves with the float feature.

Good luck.

 

[baseballtrapper]

I can't find any reviews on the Butcher hydro valves. As for the float, I was thinking about Prince Wolverine 2 spool w/ 1 float 2 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB21GB5C1 DA VALVE W/FLOAT
I'm a newbie to hydraulics and feel free to recommend products or pm me with negative reviews. I only have plans to use the remotes for T-N-T using a box blade and rear blade. I feel there is no need for me to have 3 remotes. However, you guys could likely change my perception on that ha.

 

[baseballtrapper]

I would prefer to purchase a good quality valve as I purchased the tractor new and plan on keeping it's entire lifetime

 

[LD1]

I have Top and tilt. But also have a transport disc that takes hydraulics to raise the wheels. And would much like to find a hydraulic angle rear blade. So those are just a few options that need a 3rd set.

You could always remove the toplink cylinder or simply unplug it or a sidelink cylinder to free up a remote. But for me, a few bucks to the project to get triples was well worth it

 

[bdhsfz6]

I used that same Prince 2 spool valve when adding 2 rear remotes to my old L3430 HST. I made a simple bracket bolted to the ROPS which held the valve just above the right fender. The Prince valve works well since the spool control arms can be mounted horizontally as well as vertically.



The L3430 was already equipped with a single rear remote so I used the prince valve to add 2 more. I found the extra cost of adding two rather than just one wasn't much more. I use an 8' York rake which in addition to the TNT kit, requires a third remote for the power angle cylinder. I found the three remotes to be handy enough to justify spending the $$ to have 3 OEM remotes installed on the new MX5800.

Your hydraulic circuit diagram looks like it should work but use caution when making the physical connections to avoid damage. Since I have a BH, I tapped into the hoe hydraulics to power the Prince valve. The BH hydraulic circuit is the same on the MX series as it is on the L3xxx. If you have a BH on your MX, it is easier to power the valve from there rather than go to the manifold.

 

[baseballtrapper]

You could always remove the toplink cylinder or simply unplug it or a sidelink cylinder to free up a remote.

That is my plan. Guys, your info has been helpful. Feel free to keep it coming. Thanks

 

[baseballtrapper]

use caution when making the physical connections to avoid damage.

Thanks for the advice. Can you be specific on the physical connections in which to use caution? Keep in mind I'm a newbie so "dumb-it down" as much as you can Thanks

 

[bdhsfz6]

Thanks for the advice. Can you be specific on the physical connections in which to use caution? Keep in mind I'm a newbie so "dumb-it down" as much as you can Thanks

Hydraulic fluid must continuously flow through the circuit since it is an open center system. The valves redirect part of it to cylinders, motors, etc. Completely blocking the flow through the circuit may cause pump damage.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I would prefer to purchase a good quality valve as I purchased the tractor new and plan on keeping it's entire lifetime

And that is exactly why I recommended what I recommended. These are the only manual control valves that I deal with, because I have zero issues with them. You can purchase other brands, you may or may not have issues with them.

You DO NOT want to get a set of valves that flow less than the 9+ GPM pump flow that you have. You can very easily toast your pump.

Good luck with your decision & purchase. :thumbsup:

 

[LD1]

^^^^agree with the 9gmp plus.

The 8 GPM valve you are considering is too small IMO. Ideally you want 9-12gpm range.

Going too big has its downfalls too. Harder to feather a load with big valves, harder to find a place to mount, etc.

 

[baseballtrapper]

Do you guys see any problem with "teeing" into the FEL "Return"? I'd rather take this option than "teeing" into the Manifold "Return". I realize that's adding an extra 72'' hose and a few fittings but I don't feel safe with the tee sticking out at the Manifold Return. I tend to be rough on equipment and push it a tad too far at times

 

[LD1]

Do you guys see any problem with "teeing" into the FEL "Return"? I'd rather take this option than "teeing" into the Manifold "Return". I realize that's adding an extra 72'' hose and a few fittings but I don't feel safe with the tee sticking out at the Manifold Return. I tend to be rough on equipment and push it a tad too far at times

The return can be tee'd anywhere, but if you use the right fittings it dont add that much.



Before


After


And they are pretty well protected with the loader brace right under there.