JimR
Elite Member
I happened to notice on the Kioti website that the NX motors all have the same displacement. Are they only changing out the camshafts to increase horsepower?
NX4510 - NX6010 motors
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DieselBound
Elite Member
I've heard that it's all done via software programming.
GregP27
Bronze Member
What we used to do for sand rails in Arizona was install a pressure regulator valve in line before the turbo wastegate regulator. You run the new regulator it wide open until you get the engine turned/running and then gradually crank down the pressure so the turbo thinks it is getting less ... and opens the wastegate later.
By way of explanation, an old Buick Grand National was regulated at 6.5 pounds of boost. So, you put it on along with the new regulator not cranked down. You will run with 6.5 pounds of boost. Then, you crank in 2 pounds of regulation and the wasgegate regulator thinks it is getting 4.5 pounds, and opens a bit later, allowing the turbo to make 2 more pounds of boost. You are actually producing 8.5 pounds of boost from a regulated 6.5-pound turbo due to the extra 2 pounds it doesn't know you have inline with the turbo regulator.
Sounds more complicated than it actually is. The hard part is plumbing it in. After that, it is easy. Unfortunatrly, the normal sequence of events to a "more boost" setup from most people is to crank in more boost until the engine breaks. I did that twice in sand rails! When you get tired of buying parts, you learn ... MUCH better to have a plan and do something like crank in boost until you get a 10%, 20%, 30% (or whatever) improvement and STOP when you get there. All engines will continue to gain in power until they break or detonate and THEN break, with increasing boost.
To be safe, it would be MUCH better to use a dyno to increase the 45 or 50HP Kioti engine to 60 HP and STOP than it would be to try for 75HP+. Ted and Peanut at Everything Attachments have a video on Ted's channel about turning the fuel on a tractor (New Holland, as I recall) up and getting more power. You might try searching for it before doing surgery on a new Kioti!
By way of explanation, an old Buick Grand National was regulated at 6.5 pounds of boost. So, you put it on along with the new regulator not cranked down. You will run with 6.5 pounds of boost. Then, you crank in 2 pounds of regulation and the wasgegate regulator thinks it is getting 4.5 pounds, and opens a bit later, allowing the turbo to make 2 more pounds of boost. You are actually producing 8.5 pounds of boost from a regulated 6.5-pound turbo due to the extra 2 pounds it doesn't know you have inline with the turbo regulator.
Sounds more complicated than it actually is. The hard part is plumbing it in. After that, it is easy. Unfortunatrly, the normal sequence of events to a "more boost" setup from most people is to crank in more boost until the engine breaks. I did that twice in sand rails! When you get tired of buying parts, you learn ... MUCH better to have a plan and do something like crank in boost until you get a 10%, 20%, 30% (or whatever) improvement and STOP when you get there. All engines will continue to gain in power until they break or detonate and THEN break, with increasing boost.
To be safe, it would be MUCH better to use a dyno to increase the 45 or 50HP Kioti engine to 60 HP and STOP than it would be to try for 75HP+. Ted and Peanut at Everything Attachments have a video on Ted's channel about turning the fuel on a tractor (New Holland, as I recall) up and getting more power. You might try searching for it before doing surgery on a new Kioti!
Thanks for the info. I will do a search for that info. I'm also in the process of cross-referencing many parts between the 45hp and 60hp tractors to make sure the parts numbers are all the same. Sooner or later I'll find the answer I am searching for or someone will come up with the chip to do what I want to do. I just watched that video at Everything Attachments. OMG, they cranked the NH TL-90 from 70 PTO HP up to 107 PTO HP. That is over a 50% gain in PTO HP. Like they said, the motors today are bigger than what they need to be to produce HP and how they are de-tuning them for emission standards. Great video and glad you shared it with us. My mind is spinning on my next move. I'll hold off until my tractor is out of warranty in 6 years before altering it in any way. I can't mess up the warranty on it. I do know one thing about these 45HP tractors. Mine lacks power up until it is fully warmed up. I would be willing to bet that it is leaned out big time.
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I don't know about diesel turbo engines but with gas engines you can add the valve. They are simple and you can make one with a ball spring valve from Grainger industrial. Search for grainger valve/gus valve.
The issue is you can add boost but at some point the engine will fail to deliver fuel to the motor either because of the computer or the limits of the injectors.
At that point the engine will not get any fuel because of the boost being too high so in the gas world you then start adding fuel injectors to supplant the boost.
The issue is you can add boost but at some point the engine will fail to deliver fuel to the motor either because of the computer or the limits of the injectors.
At that point the engine will not get any fuel because of the boost being too high so in the gas world you then start adding fuel injectors to supplant the boost.
I was doing some more part number cross checking and found that the injector pumps are not the same on the 45 and 60HP tractors. The injectors and turbo units are the same number on both tractors. I believe someone stated that you could shim the injector pump to a different setting. That would make sense to increase the fuel charge to the motor to make more HP.
