Mobil 1 20,000 mile oil change.

[def38]

The NOACK test cooks a known weight of the oil under test at a predetermined temperature for a predetermined time defined by ASTM D5800. The remaining weight of oil at the end of the test is a percent of the original sample weight, but you know this already. A good NOACK usually indicates that you won't need a top up between oil changes. Also, a good NOACK means the oil is likely to stay in grade longer. Also, a UOA viscosity analysis indicates to what degree of shearing the oil may be undergoing.

My most severe motor oil application is likely my 1130 cc, BMW air/oil cooled boxer twin motorcycle engine. Oil is used as the cooling medium and is deliberately circulated around the exhaust valve pockets to waste excess heat from those high temperature areas. Oil temperatures are controlled using a thermostated oil cooler in the air flowing under the headlights. Next is the air cooled B&S 724 CC V twin riding mower engine, also air cooled but without the benefit of an oil cooler. Both of these engines use synthetic engine oil. Neither requires topping up between extended oil changes.

 

[clemsonfor]

Owned and ran a foreign auto repair and sales shop for nearly ten years in VT. Sold it before the market crash of '87.
We sold Castrol 10-30 and Mann filters which were OEM for Saab and Volvo, Mercedes, etc. Only engine failures we saw were a result of overheating and head gaskets failures, etc. The technology of engines and oils available wasn't what it is today. And particularly the head gaskets and rubber based seals, rear main seals, etc., has improved tremendously since then. We had one Mobil ! customer with a Saab, and he ONLY changed the filter and never the oil in his car.
We did 3K oil and filter changes, and part of the benefit we saw at that time was getting a look at all systems on a car several times a year. We did a LOT of preventive maintenance on our customer's cars and they spent a LOT of money keeping them in good shape. Some families had three or four European vehicles and understood that owning AND maintaining them would be an expensive part of their budgets.
But we had very few roadside breakdowns as a result.
Today the only tool I need to get anything repaired I'm not going to fix myself is a telephone.
I completely agree that Mobil is looking to kick Amsoil's butt with their new guaranteed 20K oil change concept. Can it work, 20K miles? Yes, but if there is a leak, or some other problem brewing it is less likely to be found before trouble occurs.
My vehicles all have guarantees, are ALL Toyota's on lease, and one owned. I don't worry about oil changes in general. There is a sticker on the windshield, and I take it to the dealer and they put in what the vehicle spec requires. I drive away.
Oil can look very clean, but if you want to KNOW what is in it on a high mileage car, then do an oil analysis. Water or antifreeze/coolant in one's oil is a way toward a dead engine, and can easily be seen in an analysis.
I've been going to synthetic in my lawnmowers, tractor, chainsaws, etc. too. Filters can and will likely remain a weak point, especially if they jam and bypass the filter element, so IMHO a twice a year oil filter change would be warranted, even if one does NOT change the oil.

even your Toyota dealer wants you to change you oil too often usually.

Many of us cant afford to lease a vehicle and just give them back the car at the end and all that cash that you paid over the years as well, or cant afford dealer oil changes, let alone a new vehicle. I look to use quality oil and reasonable extended oil changes to lessen maintence costs.

Also many people don't drive anywhere close to 20k miles a year so it does not matter for probably 60% or more of drivers.

 

[clemsonfor]

I started using Mobil 1 back in the late eighties. I'll change out every 9k but every 3k I'll change filters and add make up oil. I've followed this procedure for almost 30 years and I'll keep doing it. I really don't care what the book says.
One interesting point though. Back in 2000 when I changed to Mobil 1 in my new Mountaineer from factory oil (around 3500 mi), I did see on the mpg gauge, that I'd gained 1 mpg over the break in oil they were using at the time. I'd heard rumors about the mpg gain when switching to synthetic, but never actually experienced it until I had a vehicle that had a way to show it.

You could of hand calculated it? Those computers are lie o meters!! My Toyota Sequoia consistently reports like 2-3 mpg more than it averages, my work truck is a dodge 2017 ram and its between 3/4 to 1.5 miles higher on mpg than hand calculations? how is that? I reset my trip and then fill up. I know exactly how many miles I go according to the on board computer/odometer and then divide it by the gallons of fuel that go in, that's it no way around it, still don't know how its ALWAYS off?

 

[DEWFPO]

You could of hand calculated it? Those computers are lie o meters!! My Toyota Sequoia consistently reports like 2-3 mpg more than it averages, my work truck is a dodge 2017 ram and its between 3/4 to 1.5 miles higher on mpg than hand calculations? how is that? I reset my trip and then fill up. I know exactly how many miles I go according to the on board computer/odometer and then divide it by the gallons of fuel that go in, that's it no way around it, still don't know how its ALWAYS off?

I've only owned 2 vehicles (different brands) that calculated it's mpg usage, and both were off and both read higher than they actually were. It's very deceptive. Whenever someone brags about their mpg's I always asked if they hand calculated it or if they just read it off the instrument panel. When I mention hand calculate, I get looks of bewilderment. They typically say, "the computer does it for you". And I often say... do you always believe what someone puts in front of your eyes. Blind trust, boy have we become lazy.

DEWFPO

 

[clemsonfor]

As others have said, today's motor oils are dramatically better and more advanced that oils from just 20 year ago. Some differences;

1- NOACK scores have risen. Modern oil stays in grade much longer.
2- Many oils contain EP additives such as molybdenum disulfide. This stuff reduces friction and protects at high temperatures.
3- ZDDP additive can save an engine from damage that has run low on oil. Most engine oils contain it at adequate levels.
4- The better synthetic oils do not shear down.
5- Corrosion inhibitors are better as are the anti-oxidants.

...and the list goes on.

Even using non-synthetic oils, a 3000 mile OCI is likely way too soon.

Also, pay close attention to the oil filter you use. There is a big difference in them, as well.

Likely the most severe oil application I have is my BMW motorcycle. The engine is air/oil cooled. When riding hard in summer heat, the engine oil is performing several jobs;

1- Transferring waste heat out of the engine.
2- Lubricating.
3- Cleaning.
4- Controlling acid produced in the engine.

My synthetic engine oil does all those jobs for 10,000 miles and still comes out of the engine clean and in grade.

Do what you will but, short OCIs are a waste of money and resources....my opinion (and some other's, as well).

Yup, spark plugs are another subject. Unless you are a NASCAR engine guy, spark plugs in most engines will last past 100,000 miles. The NASCAR guys change them frequently so they can accurately read A/F ratios using the spark plug color. I recently sold my 1995 Ford Taurus with 120,000 miles on it. The spark plugs were OE. That car (3.0L pushrod V6) delivered 24 MPG in town and 27 MPG highway...same as when new.

Also, don't fall for the fancy platinum/iridium plugs with multi-electrodes for your factory stock engine. The regular Autolite or Champion single adjustable ground electrode plugs are fine. Also, they're about $12.00 for the set.

some of those plugs don't fire rite in certain engines. Im talking about the cheap plugs. And platinum plugs do last longer and are what the OEM use. regular plugs will wear out faster. Have you used or changed any plugs recently? My 1980 chevy k10 will wear out current production AC delco non platinum plugs in less than 15k miles easy. If I put platinum in there they would last way longer. No way I am putting in non platinum plugs in say my highlander where I have to pull the whole upper intake plenum off to change them and the job takes like 4 hours total!

 

[def38]

I owned 4 Volvos with the B21 engine, a 242, a 244 and two 245s. Only thing wrong with that engine was the Jetronic FI system...in winter months wet fuel would freeze at the injectors causing no starts or engine drivability issues. I carried a can of Heet during winter months. Otherwise, that engine was almost indestructible.

 

[def38]

some of those plugs don't fire rite in certain engines. Im talking about the cheap plugs. And platinum plugs do last longer and are what the OEM use. regular plugs will wear out faster. Have you used or changed any plugs recently? My 1980 chevy k10 will wear out current production AC delco non platinum plugs in less than 15k miles easy. If I put platinum in there they would last way longer. No way I am putting in non platinum plugs in say my highlander where I have to pull the whole upper intake plenum off to change them and the job takes like 4 hours total!

Last time I changed plugs in the BMW (a high compresson engine requiring 95 RON octane fuel), they were 13 years old...Autolite 3923s, the cheap ones. The old ones came out almost like new. I never use multi electrode plugs because most do not allow for gap adjustment. For me, high priced noble metal plugs offer no benefit.

 

[bcp]

You could of hand calculated it? Those computers are lie o meters!! My Toyota Sequoia consistently reports like 2-3 mpg more than it averages, my work truck is a dodge 2017 ram and its between 3/4 to 1.5 miles higher on mpg than hand calculations? how is that? I reset my trip and then fill up. I know exactly how many miles I go according to the on board computer/odometer and then divide it by the gallons of fuel that go in, that's it no way around it, still don't know how its ALWAYS off?

Probably some kind of flow meter for fuel, and counting tire revolutions, not real miles. I wouldn't expect either to be really accurate.

Bruce

 

[TomSeller]

Soon they will track your miles by GPS, the fuel pump will report directly to your car via bluetooth and the gubbamint will make you pay more taxes the worse MPG you get. Don't laugh, it will be here soon.

 

[aczlan]

Probably some kind of flow meter for fuel, and counting tire revolutions, not real miles. I wouldn't expect either to be really accurate.

Bruce

Likely, they track how long the fuel injectors are open for and how many revolutions the tires make.
That should be as accurate as hand calculating mileage because it's using the same source as your trip meter and odometer for miles traveled and it should be pretty accurate with how much fuel is used based on how long the injectors are open. I do not understand why exactly they would be incorrect but there are some that are perpetually incorrect. The one in my car is pretty accurate, the only inaccuracies would be where I leave the average fuel mileage going for multiple tanks so if I have a tank with lots of running around town it will still read a little bit higher from the previous tanks that had more highway mileage.

Aaron Z