vulcancowboy
Gold Member
I have a 3400 HST for my 15 acres. It is a good match. In the pictures it looks like the tires have pretty significant wear. I'm guessing you will want to replace them soon.
Greetings, looking at a Kubota L3400d
- Thread starter novasbc
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kenmac
Super Member
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- Location
- The Heart of Dixie
- Tractor
- McCormick CX105 Kubota MX 5100 HST, Kubota ZD1021, Kawsaki Mule 4010 trans 4x4
Yep, Not gonna get much traction with those.
I like AG (R1) tires. I can get way better traction
I have a friend that bought a new tractor with R4 tires. He thought being wider he would get better traction. I told him not to get R4's. He now regrets getting them
bspeedy
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- Upstate SC
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- Kubota L4330, Ford 1700, JD 2210, Takeuchi TB135 Excavator
I would think a 6-foot cutter on that tractor would be a bit much for it. 5-foot rotary cutter would be a better match. It might run it, but it won't like lifting it, and you won't like driving it around in the 'up' position on uneven ground.
kenmac
Super Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2005
- Messages
- 9,835
- Location
- The Heart of Dixie
- Tractor
- McCormick CX105 Kubota MX 5100 HST, Kubota ZD1021, Kawsaki Mule 4010 trans 4x4
he should be ok with a med. 6 ft cutter. He has a loader that should offset weight
Didn't realize there was such a debate on tires, after reading through various threads.
Do the pictures I posted earlier in the thread seem to show R1 style tires in the back? I've no clue what tread design that is in the front.
My property has a history of getting trucks stuck, due to a decent amount of clay soil. However, at times, I can see myself wanting to run the tractor out into the lawn for certain activities.
Mark
vulcancowboy
Gold Member
The rear tires look like R4 tires to me. R1 tires would give you better traction in the clay, but the R4 are better on the lawn. I'm happy with my R4 tires, I've gone through some pretty deep mud with no trouble, the 4wd makes a big difference.
vulcancowboy
Gold Member
My L3400 handles my 6' 3pt finish mower just fine. I also have a 5' bush hog, it does seem to require a little more hp than the finish mower, but no problems.
I had pretty much decided to go forward with purchasing this tractor. Last weekend, I took the drive down to see it in person, drive it around, etc.
We asked to actually hook it up to a shredder, just to double check things, and we discovered that while the PTO turns with no load, we couldn't get it engaged with a load (unless started the tractor with the PTO engaged).
It appears that the PTO clutch has already been adjusted out as far as it can go, so it's time for a new clutch.
The seller offered me the options:
1) Go in half on the clutch repair (says it should cost $1000-$100), and get it done for us.
2) Discount the price of the tractor by $500, and I can deal with the PTO clutch myself.
3) Go our separate ways.
From what I read, it doesn't sound like the most difficult thing in the world, but it would be my first real "work" on a tractor. I've replaced clutches on cars, rebuilt engines on classic cars, proficient at welding, etc, so I'm tempted just to do it myself.
However, I'm not sure what parts would end up costing. If it would be too high, I might just look for another tractor that doesn't already have these issues.
Any opinions?
We asked to actually hook it up to a shredder, just to double check things, and we discovered that while the PTO turns with no load, we couldn't get it engaged with a load (unless started the tractor with the PTO engaged).
It appears that the PTO clutch has already been adjusted out as far as it can go, so it's time for a new clutch.
The seller offered me the options:
1) Go in half on the clutch repair (says it should cost $1000-$100), and get it done for us.
2) Discount the price of the tractor by $500, and I can deal with the PTO clutch myself.
3) Go our separate ways.
From what I read, it doesn't sound like the most difficult thing in the world, but it would be my first real "work" on a tractor. I've replaced clutches on cars, rebuilt engines on classic cars, proficient at welding, etc, so I'm tempted just to do it myself.
However, I'm not sure what parts would end up costing. If it would be too high, I might just look for another tractor that doesn't already have these issues.
Any opinions?
Went ahead and moved the discussion of repairing the clutch to the appropriate forum.
