Electricians, check my specs and advice

[Woody65]

If I'm understanding what you are trying to do this is what you will want. To meet code you will need to add a ground bar ( ground and neutral need to be separate in a sub panel) Note the photo only shows a neutral bar (upper part of the picture that shows the inside). I try and match the brand with the other panels on the property but that is just my OCD. Others install what the supplier has and or what is cheapest- remember your biggest cost will be the breakers themselves- especially if you use GFCI.

Square D Homeline 1 Amp 6-Space 12-Circuit Outdoor Main Lug Load Center-HOM612L1RBCP - The Home Depot

Then add this if the brand you get doesn't have a separate one-

Eaton 1-Terminal Ground Bar Kit-GBK1CS - The Home Depot

That box will fit my needs. I see the neutral/ground at the top of the box. I didn't know you needed a separate ground bar in the sub panel. Seems easy enough to install. Would I just screw it to the box and attach a ground out of the box to a pole in the ground near the post? of course the ground from the main panel would be attached also.

 

[Woody65]

This would work but the 60amp breaker isn't needed.....I don't think. The OPs first post is a bit confusing but I think he needs that type box with a 30a breaker (RV) and a 20a breaker (well). I think the 60a reference is only the wire rating and not the breaker needed. I'm not 100% on that but I'm sure OP will clear it up....:^)

Sorry if it was confusing. A 60 amp breaker in the main will be feeding this sub panel. I will need. at this time, a 30 amp 2 pole breaker for the RV and a 20amp single pole for the well pump in the sub panel. The panel recommended by Glyford wouldn't satisfy the requirements cause it doesn't have enough breaker locations. .

 

[Deere Dude]

I will need. at this time, a 30 amp 2 pole breaker for the RV and a 20amp single pole for the well pump in the sub panel. .

Make sure you totally understand the hook up for the camper. I know of at least 3 people who fried their camper controls and microwaves hooking up a 30 amp breaker for the three prong 120 volt camper plug. It is not 220 volts and only uses a single pole switch.

Before I dig myself in an deeper I will let real electricions spell out how that particular system is set up. It is a little odd.

 

[RNeumann]

That box will fit my needs. I see the neutral/ground at the top of the box. I didn't know you needed a separate ground bar in the sub panel. Seems easy enough to install. Would I just screw it to the box and attach a ground out of the box to a pole in the ground near the post? of course the ground from the main panel would be attached also.

Yes just screw the ground bar to the back of the panel. I know it's a silly technicality. Their are some situations (typically faults/problems) where the neutral can carry power. With the neutral isolated from the ground it makes diagnosis much easier. Would it work if they were together- yes. It's just not 100% code.
The ground rod was just some added insurance since you are using this outdoors and with the well pump. The best ground rod is your well casing. If that's close use the extra 6 gauge wire you are buying to go from the well casing to the panel you are installing. Your well pump should have a terminal lug with a ground screwed to casing already. Just add a terminal lug to the 6 gauge and add to ground.

 

[RNeumann]

Make sure you totally understand the hook up for the camper. I know of at least 3 people who fried their camper controls and microwaves hooking up a 30 amp breaker for the three prong 120 volt camper plug. It is not 220 volts and only uses a single pole switch.

Before I dig myself in an deeper I will let real electricions spell out how that particular system is set up. It is a little odd.

Yep good point! My smaller RV only has 120v and no "real" electrical panel inside. Most of the bigger RVs like 240v so they can run the AC. Those RVs have a real panel in them- pull the cover and look. If it takes 240v it will be wired just like the little sub panel you are putting in.

 

[Woody65]

Make sure you totally understand the hook up for the camper. I know of at least 3 people who fried their camper controls and microwaves hooking up a 30 amp breaker for the three prong 120 volt camper plug. It is not 220 volts and only uses a single pole switch. Before I dig myself in an deeper I will let real electricions spell out how that particular system is set up. It is a little odd.

You might be right. It's been 4 months since I have been there but I believe the 30amp breaker its attached to now is a single pole. The 50 amp receptacle has the double pole. I will double check it when I get back to the property. Thanks for mentioning it.

 

[Gunny]

Be careful wiring for RVs and campers, 30A is 110 volts (Shop Utilitech 3-Amp at Lowes.com), the 50A has four wires with two 120 volt leads. Since it appears that you're only doing 30 amp (Shop Square D QO 3-Amp Single-Pole Circuit Breaker at Lowes.com), you'll only need three spaces in the box. I'd recommend going with a 30A ground fault breaker for the RV, but that's a lot more money than the standard breaker.

I don't think Lowe's carries them, but you might want to look for an outdoor RV outlet box, the kind where you can plug the RV in and close the lid down over the cord.