Soldier415
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2016
- Messages
- 558
- Location
- Vermont
- Tractor
- 2001 Kubota L3010GST. 2005 Kubota L3430HSTC
Done a lot of reading through various threads using the search function and still have some questions. I'd rather admit I don't know and ask those with more experience in this area. I have about 1/4 mile of driveway that I have broken down into 3 sections and each has a different current state. Road material is stay mat (3/4" crusher run).
Photos were taken from ground level to give an idea of the current shape of the road and depth of center crown and tire tracks.
Just brought home a LP GS1560 Grading Scraper with scarifiers which will make keeping it in shape much easier once I get the road shaped correctly. Also think the GS can refinish sections 1 and 3 without having to use a rear blade.
Section #1:
From dooryard to the first turn and start of a down grade. Approx 150 yards in length. Most of the section has a slight crown but flattens out as it starts to go downhill. It is depressed in the tire tracks so water just runs down it instead of off the sides. I'm thinking that just running the GS will be sufficient for this section but I just need input on how to set the blades so I maintain the slight crown. All the way down on the right side and flush with the skid shoe on the left? Then run with the left side skid shoe along the top of the crown when towing the GS? Should I use scarifiers?
Section #2:
Right after a 90 turn to the right at the end of Section 1. Steep grade down to the bridge. Good drainage on both sides, however the road is below the level of the drainage. The edges of the road are high (can see it in second photo). It rutted pretty bad after summer thunderstorms last year. I was able to fix it up but not put a crown on it as all I had to use was a box blade (not to mention my first time running a tractor and BB). Over the fall and now the snow melt and rain has run straight down it and is washing out where the road material meets the bridge deck.
Was thinking run the GS with scarifiers down to loosen up several inches of material, then switching to a rear blade angled and tilted to cut the higher edges of the road down and move that material to the center to build a crown. My blade is a county line one from tractor supply, and have heard they can bend if you use them for heavier digging/cutting. Also, the blade itself doesn't tilt so I would need to extend the right hand 3PH arm to get the tilt which I have read can bend the arm and cause other problems. I should mention I have about 2 hours seat time with a rear blade which was clearing snow.
Section #3:
Far side of the bridge from section 2. Again, steep grade with drainage on both sides. This section was down to the 5-6" stone in a lot of places and heavily rutted early last year. Last fall I had 30 yards of material trucked in and chain spread. I then used the box blade to finish it leaving a rather high center with more of a domed crown than a straight one. Same issue as section 1 with regards to being depressed in the tire tracks. Same questions as section #1. Picture is from top of grade looking back down towards bridge.
As you can see, I have the start of a plan. Just need some more experienced sets of eyes to give me some feedback, suggestions, etc.
I also will be renting a 3 or 6 ton roller to compact everything after I finish shaping
Photos were taken from ground level to give an idea of the current shape of the road and depth of center crown and tire tracks.
Just brought home a LP GS1560 Grading Scraper with scarifiers which will make keeping it in shape much easier once I get the road shaped correctly. Also think the GS can refinish sections 1 and 3 without having to use a rear blade.
Section #1:
From dooryard to the first turn and start of a down grade. Approx 150 yards in length. Most of the section has a slight crown but flattens out as it starts to go downhill. It is depressed in the tire tracks so water just runs down it instead of off the sides. I'm thinking that just running the GS will be sufficient for this section but I just need input on how to set the blades so I maintain the slight crown. All the way down on the right side and flush with the skid shoe on the left? Then run with the left side skid shoe along the top of the crown when towing the GS? Should I use scarifiers?


Section #2:
Right after a 90 turn to the right at the end of Section 1. Steep grade down to the bridge. Good drainage on both sides, however the road is below the level of the drainage. The edges of the road are high (can see it in second photo). It rutted pretty bad after summer thunderstorms last year. I was able to fix it up but not put a crown on it as all I had to use was a box blade (not to mention my first time running a tractor and BB). Over the fall and now the snow melt and rain has run straight down it and is washing out where the road material meets the bridge deck.
Was thinking run the GS with scarifiers down to loosen up several inches of material, then switching to a rear blade angled and tilted to cut the higher edges of the road down and move that material to the center to build a crown. My blade is a county line one from tractor supply, and have heard they can bend if you use them for heavier digging/cutting. Also, the blade itself doesn't tilt so I would need to extend the right hand 3PH arm to get the tilt which I have read can bend the arm and cause other problems. I should mention I have about 2 hours seat time with a rear blade which was clearing snow.


Section #3:
Far side of the bridge from section 2. Again, steep grade with drainage on both sides. This section was down to the 5-6" stone in a lot of places and heavily rutted early last year. Last fall I had 30 yards of material trucked in and chain spread. I then used the box blade to finish it leaving a rather high center with more of a domed crown than a straight one. Same issue as section 1 with regards to being depressed in the tire tracks. Same questions as section #1. Picture is from top of grade looking back down towards bridge.


As you can see, I have the start of a plan. Just need some more experienced sets of eyes to give me some feedback, suggestions, etc.
I also will be renting a 3 or 6 ton roller to compact everything after I finish shaping