Help me devise a plan of attack for refinishing my road (pic heavy)
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Soldier415
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- 2001 Kubota L3010GST. 2005 Kubota L3430HSTC
Makes sense. Mine came from the dealer with the blades dropped all the way to 1 1/2". I don't think an extra half inch in cut depth will matter.
oosik
Epic Contributor
Not at all - that extra half inch won't make a toot difference. Based upon your pics the LPGS should work well to fill those tire tracks.
I know now what is different - I can't remember the last time I saw a two lane gravel driveway.
I know now what is different - I can't remember the last time I saw a two lane gravel driveway.
boggen
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- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
rear blade and box blade + TNT
tnt = Top and tilt = replacing top link with a hydraulic cylinder, and/or replacing one of the side links with a hydraulic cylinder. some folks replace both side links with a hydrualic cylinder.
would suggest at min. getting a TILT (replacing a side link with a hydraulic cylinder on the 3pt hitch) so you can adjust angle on the fly from seat of tractor. you have the longer straight runs but starting from home to going down hills, the ditch / angle most likely want steeper. and then i the turns, and then on the hill itself. you would most likely be constantly adjust the angle of rear blade/box blade. to get an angle that works better.
you are never going to solve your problems. till you get the water off the road and into the ditches. the one issue the 90 as you are going down hill. even if you put the water into a ditch. you are going to need larger rock in the ditch or your ditch will erode away. either make road slightly wider and extend into ditch with larger rock were water flows or get the water into the ditch and toss rock into the ditch. darn if you do, darn if you do not.
the road needs built up. more rock /dirt or something to get it up above the ditches.
the rear blade = helping with ditches and bring dirt/rock from ditches up into center of road due to how rear blades angle and move stuff from one side to other.
the box blade = better at filling in low spots, and physically moving high spots to those low spots. as in dealing with pot holes and ruts.
the land plane/grader scraper = more of a sifting device. it brings rock back up to the surface while allowing the dirt to fall down lower.
TNT = adjust stuff on the fly, you have to many different angles most likely wanted for rear blade, box blade, land plane. a side link of a TNT best bet.
make sure you have your "check chains", and "sway bar/chains" on the 3pt hitch. to help protect your 3pt hitch.
good chance you will be swapping between implements a good amount initially till you learn them. suggest telescopic lower lift arms, and/or pat's easy hitch, or quick attach for 3pt hitch. WARNING the quick attach (upside down U's) generally require you to cut off and re weld the connection points on 3pt hitch equipment. not always but many times.
WARNING. pending on 3pt hitch linkages. turn buckles to other types of adjust 3pt hitch, you may need a piece of wire or something around the large nut / turnbuckle to keep them from unscrewing and falling apart and loosing them some place.
google "forest roads" or "forestry roads" there is a handful of websites that generally cover a lot of the slopes, angles, crowns, ditch sizing, etc...
tnt = Top and tilt = replacing top link with a hydraulic cylinder, and/or replacing one of the side links with a hydraulic cylinder. some folks replace both side links with a hydrualic cylinder.
would suggest at min. getting a TILT (replacing a side link with a hydraulic cylinder on the 3pt hitch) so you can adjust angle on the fly from seat of tractor. you have the longer straight runs but starting from home to going down hills, the ditch / angle most likely want steeper. and then i the turns, and then on the hill itself. you would most likely be constantly adjust the angle of rear blade/box blade. to get an angle that works better.
you are never going to solve your problems. till you get the water off the road and into the ditches. the one issue the 90 as you are going down hill. even if you put the water into a ditch. you are going to need larger rock in the ditch or your ditch will erode away. either make road slightly wider and extend into ditch with larger rock were water flows or get the water into the ditch and toss rock into the ditch. darn if you do, darn if you do not.
the road needs built up. more rock /dirt or something to get it up above the ditches.
the rear blade = helping with ditches and bring dirt/rock from ditches up into center of road due to how rear blades angle and move stuff from one side to other.
the box blade = better at filling in low spots, and physically moving high spots to those low spots. as in dealing with pot holes and ruts.
the land plane/grader scraper = more of a sifting device. it brings rock back up to the surface while allowing the dirt to fall down lower.
TNT = adjust stuff on the fly, you have to many different angles most likely wanted for rear blade, box blade, land plane. a side link of a TNT best bet.
make sure you have your "check chains", and "sway bar/chains" on the 3pt hitch. to help protect your 3pt hitch.
good chance you will be swapping between implements a good amount initially till you learn them. suggest telescopic lower lift arms, and/or pat's easy hitch, or quick attach for 3pt hitch. WARNING the quick attach (upside down U's) generally require you to cut off and re weld the connection points on 3pt hitch equipment. not always but many times.
WARNING. pending on 3pt hitch linkages. turn buckles to other types of adjust 3pt hitch, you may need a piece of wire or something around the large nut / turnbuckle to keep them from unscrewing and falling apart and loosing them some place.
google "forest roads" or "forestry roads" there is a handful of websites that generally cover a lot of the slopes, angles, crowns, ditch sizing, etc...
Rustyiron
Super Member
I would pull your loose gravel in with the rake set at a aggressive angle to fill the wheel rut's then play around with your GS & see what material you have to work with. It looks to me like you could easily add new material to get the water off the road and into your nice ditches. Everything looks pretty close to good (basic grade wise) except the minor wheel rut's, looks solid & well compacted especially just after getting through winter.
If you decide you need to add a little material (I think you do), there is a trick that if you have a cooperative trucker, meet him at the quarry and bring 2- of 6x6 wood blocks about 20" long with you. Have him pop his tailgate just before loading and put a block against each side against the tailgate oriented parallel with the tailgate. When he set's his chains and "tailgates" the load out for you you'll have a nice 4' wide (or so) strip down the middle, just where you want it, then play with that with what ever implement works best for you. With a good grade like you have (at least the pics makes it look good) you should be fine with either the rake or box blade as long as you don't go crazy with a lot of ''operator input" on the height adjustments. I would guess 2"-3" might be all you need. The d/t driver will be blind as to what he's laying down, and you'll need to help him with his speed at first.
This has gotten too long, basically.....
I wouldn't "fluff up" & scarify your existing surface, just pull in the gravel from the edges.
see how far this material gets you with those wheel rut's.
add new material if necessary. (hard to tell but maybe a smaller like 3/4" crusher run or just stone dust to "lock in" your pulled in stone)
If you decide you need to add a little material (I think you do), there is a trick that if you have a cooperative trucker, meet him at the quarry and bring 2- of 6x6 wood blocks about 20" long with you. Have him pop his tailgate just before loading and put a block against each side against the tailgate oriented parallel with the tailgate. When he set's his chains and "tailgates" the load out for you you'll have a nice 4' wide (or so) strip down the middle, just where you want it, then play with that with what ever implement works best for you. With a good grade like you have (at least the pics makes it look good) you should be fine with either the rake or box blade as long as you don't go crazy with a lot of ''operator input" on the height adjustments. I would guess 2"-3" might be all you need. The d/t driver will be blind as to what he's laying down, and you'll need to help him with his speed at first.
This has gotten too long, basically.....
I wouldn't "fluff up" & scarify your existing surface, just pull in the gravel from the edges.
see how far this material gets you with those wheel rut's.
add new material if necessary. (hard to tell but maybe a smaller like 3/4" crusher run or just stone dust to "lock in" your pulled in stone)
Egon
Epic Contributor
You end up with larger stuff on the top. The fines will be on the bottom. Your LP does not mix the aggregate.
Get a rear blade with gauge wheels if you want to get serious. It'll pull gravel from the ditches, make the dishes deeper, mix your agregate well, crown the road, move material from side to side, pull material forward and end up with a smooth even road bed.
ishiboo
Platinum Member
Everything except the downhill part, I would add 3/4 crusher run to bring up the level. Use your LPGS to smooth it out/distribute it. Use your rear blade at an angle to fix your existing ditches or cut new ones next to the road, so the water has somewhere to flow that's not down the driveway.
smokinmad
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- ford 1210, yanmar 276D, I.H. Cub Lowboy, Ford 2-N
Now THAT's a Driveway....
Mine is only 100' and is limestone, meaning I have a lime base to "glue" my 3/4" stone down.. In the spring when the driveway is Soft, I got my trip disk out and went to town...then I raked it out smooth...now I till it lightly, then rake and roll it.
Ditches are the most important part of a gravel road, then your "crown". As for the Bridge entrance.....It is IMPOSSIBLE to make a Smooth Entrance on to a bridge....lol...Just drive down ANY interstate road...it Can't be done..lmbo
I think one of the most important parts of your rebuild has not been brought up yet....after I got that project looking Awesome...I'd hire someone with a highway roller,(10 ton) to roll it and PACK that road solid.....Yep, that is My 2 cents worth....
This is Good Advice also....""google "forest roads" or "forestry roads" there is a handful of websites that generally cover a lot of the slopes, angles, crowns, ditch sizing, etc..."" good thinkin "Boggen"
To bad you can't get some asphalt grindings to cover that with, the heat really makes a tight road with those old grindings.
Well, Good Luck and Be Careful...
Smokin'
Mine is only 100' and is limestone, meaning I have a lime base to "glue" my 3/4" stone down.. In the spring when the driveway is Soft, I got my trip disk out and went to town...then I raked it out smooth...now I till it lightly, then rake and roll it.
Ditches are the most important part of a gravel road, then your "crown". As for the Bridge entrance.....It is IMPOSSIBLE to make a Smooth Entrance on to a bridge....lol...Just drive down ANY interstate road...it Can't be done..lmbo
I think one of the most important parts of your rebuild has not been brought up yet....after I got that project looking Awesome...I'd hire someone with a highway roller,(10 ton) to roll it and PACK that road solid.....Yep, that is My 2 cents worth....
This is Good Advice also....""google "forest roads" or "forestry roads" there is a handful of websites that generally cover a lot of the slopes, angles, crowns, ditch sizing, etc..."" good thinkin "Boggen"
To bad you can't get some asphalt grindings to cover that with, the heat really makes a tight road with those old grindings.
Well, Good Luck and Be Careful...
Smokin'
jeff9366
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2011
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- Kubota Tractor Loader L3560 HST+ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 3,700 pounds bare tractor, 5,400 pounds operating weight, 37 horsepower
Better to adjust Box Blade tilt by moving LEFT Lifting Rod stirrup pin to one of the two lower adjustment holes available. Lower hole = less lift = tilt to left. (RIGHT works equally well but only two, rather than three adjustment holes on right.)
Then fine tune tilt with adjustable Right Lifting Rod. Less stress on the Lifting Rods following this procedure.
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crazyal
Super Member
First off do you know if there's fabric under the gravel? If so then you'll want to be very careful not to rip it up. As for what other say and what will work for you, the two don't always agree. You'll have a lot of people telling you that you need a crown to shed the water off your driveway. All that did for me is put lots of expensive gravel into ditches and on my yard. Now I keep my driveway flat and just drag the gravel back up the driveway. It may mean doing more work but I personally don't mind being the extra seat time.
I have a Befco grading scraper and I never put the blades much more than a 1/2" below the skids on the side. Usually they are even with it. Any more than that once the gravel is loosened up the blades just dig too deep. I use the rippers to break the gravel up. Once loose I'm just trying to smooth it. With the blades even with the skids the high spots get shaven down and the extra piles up in front of the blades until a low spot comes along. I would suggest setting the blades both ways and see what works for you.
Your driveway looks to be in pretty good shape. I wouldn't do much until you know if there is fabric. Once you know that then you can devise a plan of attack. For potholes I like to set the rippers as low as I can (even shortening the top link) and dig up around the hole, often I will try to do it from multiple directions. I usually will rip up the whole driveway because I like to get it nice and smooth and in the summer my gravel packs down very hard, just not as deep as around the pothole. Then I smooth it. I usually work with the idea of pulling the gravel uphill. To do the crown you can just adjust your side link to work with the angle of the blades. The gravel will want to work it's way down the blade. By setting the side of the scraper lower, the side with the blades closer to your tractor, you will pull gravel from that side and move it to the other. Chances are once you have a crown you are not going to need to do much as long as you keep one side of the tractor on the crown. It's not rocket science, just go out and play in a few spots with some of the ideas from others and see what works for you.
I have a Befco grading scraper and I never put the blades much more than a 1/2" below the skids on the side. Usually they are even with it. Any more than that once the gravel is loosened up the blades just dig too deep. I use the rippers to break the gravel up. Once loose I'm just trying to smooth it. With the blades even with the skids the high spots get shaven down and the extra piles up in front of the blades until a low spot comes along. I would suggest setting the blades both ways and see what works for you.
Your driveway looks to be in pretty good shape. I wouldn't do much until you know if there is fabric. Once you know that then you can devise a plan of attack. For potholes I like to set the rippers as low as I can (even shortening the top link) and dig up around the hole, often I will try to do it from multiple directions. I usually will rip up the whole driveway because I like to get it nice and smooth and in the summer my gravel packs down very hard, just not as deep as around the pothole. Then I smooth it. I usually work with the idea of pulling the gravel uphill. To do the crown you can just adjust your side link to work with the angle of the blades. The gravel will want to work it's way down the blade. By setting the side of the scraper lower, the side with the blades closer to your tractor, you will pull gravel from that side and move it to the other. Chances are once you have a crown you are not going to need to do much as long as you keep one side of the tractor on the crown. It's not rocket science, just go out and play in a few spots with some of the ideas from others and see what works for you.