Rear Blade Land Leveler/Grader Blade/Land Plane

[boggen]

beyond having a crown, and then ditches to carry the water away. so no water stands on the road it self and runs off the road, and into ditches were it is carried away. so the road is kept dry.

you pretty much have the tools already with the belly blade, rear blade, and box blade.

i am wondering if you are compacting the drive good after you mess with it. (1 tire width at a time) and how ever much weight you can load up on a tractor. so weight of 1 tire width compacts the road. if you can attack at different angles to help lock the gravel on the surface you should get a better compaction.

trying to stay off of it when it is "really wet" as much as possible suggested, until you get drive compacted, and it may take a couple rains and just as it is about to dry good. get out there and run over it to compact it.

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internet search for "forestry roads" should return 5 or so descent websites that goes over roads. that most folks on their driveways can use nice and easily.

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land plan / grader scraper there are some DIY versions out there, along with some different styles that are geared to ATV / UTV / lawn mower / and even trucks out there.

though what you have already looked at most likely better choice, in wanting to "sift" the rocks and dirt. so rocks come to the top and dirt falls down.

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with all above said. sounds like you still have some water on the road and in the ditches beside it. causing the clay to become slip n slide when ever it gets wet, letting your rock vanish into the mud. if ya need to build up the areas to help shed the water do what ya gotta do. to get the water off the road and then get it sent down the ditches.

 

[bookman51]

beyond having a crown, and then ditches to carry the water away. so no water stands on the road it self and runs off the road, and into ditches were it is carried away. so the road is kept dry.

you pretty much have the tools already with the belly blade, rear blade, and box blade.

i am wondering if you are compacting the drive good after you mess with it. (1 tire width at a time) and how ever much weight you can load up on a tractor. so weight of 1 tire width compacts the road. if you can attack at different angles to help lock the gravel on the surface you should get a better compaction.

trying to stay off of it when it is "really wet" as much as possible suggested, until you get drive compacted, and it may take a couple rains and just as it is about to dry good. get out there and run over it to compact it.

===============
internet search for "forestry roads" should return 5 or so descent websites that goes over roads. that most folks on their driveways can use nice and easily.

===============
land plan / grader scraper there are some DIY versions out there, along with some different styles that are geared to ATV / UTV / lawn mower / and even trucks out there.

though what you have already looked at most likely better choice, in wanting to "sift" the rocks and dirt. so rocks come to the top and dirt falls down.

==============
with all above said. sounds like you still have some water on the road and in the ditches beside it. causing the clay to become slip n slide when ever it gets wet, letting your rock vanish into the mud. if ya need to build up the areas to help shed the water do what ya gotta do. to get the water off the road and then get it sent down the ditches.

Yes, it could use a better crown. The road is hilly so water will wash on the hills and then it will stand in some of the low spots. As far as people not driving on it when it is wet, it is a public road and not much choice about that. And you are right about not packing it down. I do not do that. Thanks for the information.

 

[Tomtint]

I have a 72" Befco that I used behind my L3700. It works incredibly well for smoothing and leveling our road. The downside is that it does not crown the road very well. I would think that if you used the land plane to grade your road really well, then switched over to a blade to crown it ,, then rolled it to compact the material. .. that would be the best option.

 

[Egon]

Consider putting gauge wheels on one back blade and use the rippers on the box blade to initially loosen up the entire surface. Gauge wheels will make a very big difference.

 

[bookman51]

Consider putting gauge wheels on one back blade and use the rippers on the box blade to initially loosen up the entire surface. Gauge wheels will make a very big difference.

I may end up forgoing the rippers on the land leveler because I have them on the box blade. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Soldier415]

I recently bought a Land Pride GS1560 Grading Scraper to use on my 1/4 mile driveway. Road material is 3/4" crusher run/staymat.

It is a good tool for keeping the road with a nice finish. When it starts to get depressed wheel tracks or other imperfections it is easy to drop and drag to correct without having to use a box blade and cut deep.

However, it will not move material from the outer edge to the inner edge reliably. It also tends to deposit the larger gravel on the top after the fines slip under the blades.

On my first use I turned this

into this

In about an hour. Wasn't using the ripper shanks.

It also tends to drop material over the rear blade in spurts, so I final pass driving in reverse is needed to smooth it out.

After that I get my 8k lb pickup and drive back and forth one wheel width at a time to pack it down.

 

[bookman51]

I recently bought a Land Pride GS1560 Grading Scraper to use on my 1/4 mile driveway. Road material is 3/4" crusher run/staymat.

It is a good tool for keeping the road with a nice finish. When it starts to get depressed wheel tracks or other imperfections it is easy to drop and drag to correct without having to use a box blade and cut deep.

However, it will not move material from the outer edge to the inner edge reliably. It also tends to deposit the larger gravel on the top after the fines slip under the blades.

On my first use I turned this

into this

In about an hour. Wasn't using the ripper shanks.

It also tends to drop material over the rear blade in spurts, so I final pass driving in reverse is needed to smooth it out.

After that I get my 8k lb pickup and drive back and forth one wheel width at a time to pack it down.

Did you consider other brands and why did you decide on the Land Pride. It looked like it filled in the potholes and brought some of the rock from the edge in---at least in the second picture I am not seeing as much rock on the end of the road. Thanks

 

[Soldier415]

Did you consider other brands and why did you decide on the Land Pride. It looked like it filled in the potholes and brought some of the rock from the edge in---at least in the second picture I am not seeing as much rock on the end of the road. Thanks

I looked at other brands but for the price I liked the LP. Ripper shanks, independently adjustable cutting depth on the blade carriers, etc.

It filled in the ruts well, but it took a fair amount of passes since I didn't drop the rippers. At most it moves material an inch or less with each pass. Instead of travelling down the blade it spills over the back.

 

[bookman51]

I looked at other brands but for the price I liked the LP. Ripper shanks, independently adjustable cutting depth on the blade carriers, etc.

It filled in the ruts well, but it took a fair amount of passes since I didn't drop the rippers. At most it moves material an inch or less with each pass. Instead of travelling down the blade it spills over the back.

The Land Pride unit is lighter than Everything Attachments and I think the Befco units of the same width. Do you think more weight would make a difference as far as the amount of material moved in each pass or are you planning to rely on the rippers if you want to move more material?

Now Everything Attachments makes a Land Shark unit that is about the same weight as the Land Pride unit and is competitive in price. The heavier duty Everything Attachments weights more than Land Pride but is also several hundred dollars more. The decision for me is whether or not it is worth it, plus even looking more at apples and apples (Land Pride versus EA's Land Shark) it is a question of buying from a local dealer (local Case IH dealer handles Land Pride) versus someone not local (but reputable) (Everything Attachments). Decisions decisions decisions. Thanks

 

[Soldier415]

The Land Pride unit is lighter than Everything Attachments and I think the Befco units of the same width. Do you think more weight would make a difference as far as the amount of material moved in each pass or are you planning to rely on the rippers if you want to move more material?

Now Everything Attachments makes a Land Shark unit that is about the same weight as the Land Pride unit and is competitive in price. The heavier duty Everything Attachments weights more than Land Pride but is also several hundred dollars more. The decision for me is whether or not it is worth it, plus even looking more at apples and apples (Land Pride versus EA's Land Shark) it is a question of buying from a local dealer (local Case IH dealer handles Land Pride) versus someone not local (but reputable) (Everything Attachments). Decisions decisions decisions. Thanks

The GS isn't designed for moving material really. It will fill to the top and spill excess over the back. To cut down high spots and fill low ones with what is cut off you can have the blades even with the bottom of the skid shoes. Or to get an aggressive dig/cut drop the blades below the skid shoes.

Putting the rippers down just enough to dig in and break up the top of the packed material with the blades set even with the skid shoes should ensure a good consistent level of material in front of the blades to deposit in low spots.

The weight is fine. Having the rippers is a big benefit that (IMHO) negates the need for the added weight.