Replacing Clutch - Which parts to get?

[ljplum12]

Based on my other recent thread it sounds like I'm going to need to replace the clutch in my Jinma 254. The complete clutch assembly is about $400, or I can get the individual plates for about $60 each (pto plate and main plate).

Is there any reason why I would need to get the whole assembly, or should I be able to re-use most of the parts? Or will I not really know until I get it split?

 

[RonMar]

Well you don't know what condition the cone springs are in. You also don't know how much the pressure plates have been worn and you won't know some of those answers untill you put it back together. IE: the spring may have always been weak causing early cluch failure... you never mentioned how many hours are on this tractor?

I know it is expensive, but considering the work involved in splitting a tractor, I would reccomend replacing the whole assembly and the throwout bearing for the same reason that you usually replace the water pump while you are replacing a timing belt... I think the clutchpack Affordable sells also comes with a clutch alignment tool...

 

[ljplum12]

... you never mentioned how many hours are on this tractor?

It's actually a bit of a mystery. The guy I purchased it from was the second owner. The story I got is that the first owner put 47.5hrs on it, then got a bigger tractor and let this one sit outside for nearly 10 years. 10 years in the sun fried the instrument cluster, so it's stuck on 47.5. Second owner then bought it, replaced all the fluids, got it running again, and used it for a short time (I have no idea how long that was). He started having the issues I've been trying to fix (loader not working, hydraulic leaks, clutch slipping) and decided to just sell it. That's where I came in.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

It's actually a bit of a mystery. The guy I purchased it from was the second owner. The story I got is that the first owner put 47.5hrs on it, then got a bigger tractor and let this one sit outside for nearly 10 years. 10 years in the sun fried the instrument cluster, so it's stuck on 47.5. Second owner then bought it, replaced all the fluids, got it running again, and used it for a short time (I have no idea how long that was). He started having the issues I've been trying to fix (loader not working, hydraulic leaks, clutch slipping) and decided to just sell it. That's where I came in.

It might just be the tach sensor, it's pretty common for them to fail. The hour meter doesn't run unless the tach sensor is sending. Do your other gauges work?

I would plan on just the two clutch disks and the throwout bearing. If you get it apart and see wear replace the worn pieces.

There are splitting guides posted here if you check the archives. Be careful, when you split it you have to support the weight, it's heavy.

 

[ljplum12]

I haven't checked the tach sensor. Should just be able to put a volt meter on it, right?

Here's the rest of the gauges. They've had a rough go of it :laughing:

 

[RonMar]

Yep, voltmeter. If I recall correctly it should be putting out about 5V when the engine is running...

 

[quicksandfarmer]

The tach sensor is like a little alternator, the teeth of the flywheel running through its magnetic field cause it to produce an alternating current. It produces about 5V AC with the frequency determined by the flywheel speed.

Often they go out of adjustment, so try that before replacing it.

The sensor needs to be properly adjusted so it is close enough but not too close to the flywheel. What does that mean? With the engine off, screw it in until it bumps into the flywheel. Then back it off a half to three quarters of a turn. That's close enough.

 

[mffarmall]

I did it a few years ago. Just get the entire clutch. Unless you can rebuild the parts to specs. Don't forget to also replace the pins in the arm. they break and need to be replaced. sometimes the peddle connecting arm that goes into the clutch can wear.