Slick 50

[DEWFPO]

Run a good full synthetic oil, avoid snake oil like Slick 50.

I agree, run the right grade full synthetic oil and call it a day. You won't need anymore. They do amazing jobs reducing friction and cleaning up engines.

DEWFPO

 

[4get gto]

By pulling out a gallon of oil putting a gallon Slick 50 back in that is a case where I think you'd a difference....Good or bad. That's a substantial amount.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Anybody here use any crankcase additives for engine heat reduction? The reason I ask is due to the single instance that I was involved in with extreme outdoor temps....

In the summer of 1994 I was working in the Mojave Desert in Arizona. We had a John Deere 850 cable plow that was running at the very edge of overheating. Actual outdoor temps were well above 100 degrees every day, approaching 120. I ended up draining a gallon of engine oil and adding a gallon of Slick 50. The engine temp went down at least 20 degrees under full load and even more when not loaded. I would not have believed it if I weren't right there to witness it.

Slick50 ain't what it used to be.


Xcelplus: What happened to Slick-5? Interview with JohnBishop - YouTube

 

[prs]

My "positive" Slick 50 experience: Years ago, probably 30 or more, I broke the spur gear driven shaft in the right final drive of my John Deere tractor while plowing deep heavy snow. That shaft snapped like a stick pretzle and the larger inner bearing was rough. Dealer got the shaft to me PDQ, but bearing was on back order. I assembled the tractor and contnued working as that gearing was growlling at me all the while. I added the bottle of Slick 50 (pint or half pint, I do not recall) and the bearing began quieting down and by the time the bearing arrived it was quiet. The hytran oil was Quatrol, the OE fluid. That "new" bearing is still in my parts collection wrapped in oil paper. It would always growl again soon after fluid changes and I added Slick 50 to again stop the growl; until I began using the more recent formlae of JD Hy-Guard. With the Hy-Guard there is no bearing noise. 1982 tractor, runs like new. Desperate measures for desperate times.

prs

 

[prs]

My "positive" Slick 50 experience: Years ago, probably 30 or more, I broke the spur gear driven shaft in the right final drive of my John Deere tractor while plowing deep heavy snow. That shaft snapped like a stick pretzle and the larger inner bearing was rough. Dealer got the shaft to me PDQ, but bearing was on back order. I assembled the tractor and contnued working as that bearing was growlling at me all the while. I added the bottle of Slick 50 (pint or half pint, I do not recall) and the bearing began quieting down and by the time the new bearing arrived it was quiet. The hytran oil was Quatrol, the OE fluid. That "new" bearing is still in my parts collection wrapped in oil paper. It would always growl again soon after fluid changes and I added Slick 50 again stop the growl; until I began using the more recent formlae of JD Hy-Guard. With the Hy-Guard there is no bearing noise. 1982 JD 650 tractor, runs like new. Desperate measures for desperate times.

prs

 

[WileyG]

Slick50 ain't what it used to be.


Xcelplus: What happened to Slick-5�? Interview with JohnBishop - YouTube

WOW! I didn't even get the real McCoy but, luckily, it did work for us. Now I'm really curious what the real product might have done under the same conditions.

 

[TractorGuy]

I used the original Slick 50 for years and probably unknowingly used the fake stuff after that.

I saw two different testamonials to the original that sold me on the product.

#1: I was at an off road buggy race and saw them treat a souped up air cooled VW engine with it. They went out and ran several laps (don't remember how many) then they drained the oil and took it back on course with no oil in it. They ran several more laps and brought it back in and refilled it. It had no knocking or signs of any engine damage but was not torn down.

#2: I knew a back yard mechanic that ran a mullet boat on the side. It had an inboard 4cyl chevy engine and one of the rods began to knock during the mullet run season. This was a heavy wood boat pulling several hundred feet of net full of fish so it had a tremendous load on the engine. He poured Slick 50 in it and ran it the rest of the season with the engine knocking. The knock never got better or worse but the engine continued to run. I personally saw the rod bearing insert that came out when that engine was torn down. It was nothing but the steel backing shell with no copper or babbitt left on it. The shell was slick as owl chit and smooth as a baby's butt.

I never had an engine fail that I had run the Slick 50 in. One engine was an old 11HP B&S that was still running when I hauled the mower to the dump at 20+ years old. That mower was on it's 3rd deck and the tires were rotting off of it. If the steering gear wasn't worn out I would have probably repaired it again but the cost would have been near the cost of a new mower so I trashed it.

I used a generic that claimed it contained genuine Dupont PTFE a few times. I think it was Duralube but their product does not currently have that claim on it. They came out about the same time as Slick 50.

 

[sd455dan]

WOW! I didn't even get the real McCoy but, luckily, it did work for us. Now I'm really curious what the real product might have done under the same conditions.

It was the original formula that caused the overheating in the Then new Pontiac 400 engine.\

Have 2 Briggs twins in the riding lawn mowers listed with the avatar, both have been run on Shell Rotella T with no additives one is about 33 years and the other is 43 years old now. Both run great and have had many belts and deck repairs, fuel pumps and air filters but no internal work of any kind and run great.

I did also try a oil treatment called Pro-Blend they also made the water wetter that did work,

tried the 1 Carroll Shelby used to advertise for- Z Max and also Dura Lube didn't do anything but dent my wallet.

 

[jack707]

There a lot of snake oil on the market today.